I'm glad this thread got bumped back up as I had the Hornresp data stored from the pics on the first page and I'd forgotten where I got it from.
Now I have moved to an apartment a pair of these should prove adequate for HT use. I was going to put the drivers into two push-push sealed and EQ/LT, but this looks a better solution, for at least two of the drivers I have laying about anyway. It also saves me having to fold my own earlier LAB12 TH designs.
Now I have moved to an apartment a pair of these should prove adequate for HT use. I was going to put the drivers into two push-push sealed and EQ/LT, but this looks a better solution, for at least two of the drivers I have laying about anyway. It also saves me having to fold my own earlier LAB12 TH designs.
I added a post some hours ago about a version of this using the Shiva, but then photobucket had a hissyfit and didn't load my images.
So I added a thread over on HTS in the Exodus forum and thought maybe some of you guys would be interested, especially as I just used your design for it, credit where due.
Double the Xmax and an XBL motor make nice additions for little extra cost for anyone building one from scratch.
Shiva TH
So I added a thread over on HTS in the Exodus forum and thought maybe some of you guys would be interested, especially as I just used your design for it, credit where due.
Double the Xmax and an XBL motor make nice additions for little extra cost for anyone building one from scratch.
Shiva TH
What angle for cut on bottom of piece J, on the original plans from page 1?...
Looking at the plans from page 1 of this thread, what is the angle for the mitre cut on the bottom of piece J, to make it sit at precisely the right inclination relative to the bottom piece F?...
Also, are pieces J, I and H joined at 90 degress, right angles, to each other, as it appears to the naked eye from the plans?...
Thanks guys!...
James
Looking at the plans from page 1 of this thread, what is the angle for the mitre cut on the bottom of piece J, to make it sit at precisely the right inclination relative to the bottom piece F?...
Also, are pieces J, I and H joined at 90 degress, right angles, to each other, as it appears to the naked eye from the plans?...
Thanks guys!...
James
That's right ...
... anything not square is at 2.3 degrees. That includes j, h, and i as well as k. Tapped Horns require leak-proof construction.
Any leak will ruin the output, and once it's glued-up good luck finding the leaks. And yes ... if it looks square, it is square.
Make all the 13 inch cuts with one set-up of a well adjusted table saw, and they won't vary by more than 1/64 inch.
If you're not sure of your woodworking skills, Rog Mogale has a guide on how to do it,
see: Speakerplans.com for help.
... anything not square is at 2.3 degrees. That includes j, h, and i as well as k. Tapped Horns require leak-proof construction.
Any leak will ruin the output, and once it's glued-up good luck finding the leaks. And yes ... if it looks square, it is square.
Make all the 13 inch cuts with one set-up of a well adjusted table saw, and they won't vary by more than 1/64 inch.
If you're not sure of your woodworking skills, Rog Mogale has a guide on how to do it,
see: Speakerplans.com for help.
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will start cutting wood this weekend, and just copy this design.
Have never built anything like this, so a few dumb quick questions.
Stuffing, any general rules? Will have to have a new read, but bracing etc, I think there was a pic from someone who had better bracing etc. Is it worthwhile to do?? If I do, any general rules??
Sorry to be just PITA about this, but at this stage of the game I don't want to get an analytical understanding, just a 'monkey see monkey do' understanding.
I can post measurements if that get's my exchange in!!
Heck, I'll post the measurements anyway haha, and if no answer then I'll just go for it.
Have never built anything like this, so a few dumb quick questions.
Stuffing, any general rules? Will have to have a new read, but bracing etc, I think there was a pic from someone who had better bracing etc. Is it worthwhile to do?? If I do, any general rules??
Sorry to be just PITA about this, but at this stage of the game I don't want to get an analytical understanding, just a 'monkey see monkey do' understanding.
I can post measurements if that get's my exchange in!!
Heck, I'll post the measurements anyway haha, and if no answer then I'll just go for it.
haha, thanks paul. gotta stop 'relying' on you eh??
At least you are a tiny bit aware of recent events, and so may understand the 'just tell me what to do' bit. So the thought of 'stuff a little bit, then audition...rinse and repeat' does not appeal.
I will prob just use the bald unadorned basic build here as the template, have a look at volvo and find the link within this thread to the extra bracing pics, and make my own decision just based on gut feel.
Gotta get me in the ball park, unless this alignment is particularly sensitive to slight changes??
At least you are a tiny bit aware of recent events, and so may understand the 'just tell me what to do' bit. So the thought of 'stuff a little bit, then audition...rinse and repeat' does not appeal.
I will prob just use the bald unadorned basic build here as the template, have a look at volvo and find the link within this thread to the extra bracing pics, and make my own decision just based on gut feel.
Gotta get me in the ball park, unless this alignment is particularly sensitive to slight changes??
lol
You just never know where I might pop up!
Maybe you could just put some in and leave it. I think you have a fair amount of EQ power and will probably roll off the top end. I wouldn't worry too much for trying things out, I might even get a bit lazy and leave out bracing. The bracing is a fair bit of extra effort, since it means accurate fitting. The angles make it worse. That kind of things drives me nuts! I can be meticulous, but the patience can get tested!
You just never know where I might pop up!
Maybe you could just put some in and leave it. I think you have a fair amount of EQ power and will probably roll off the top end. I wouldn't worry too much for trying things out, I might even get a bit lazy and leave out bracing. The bracing is a fair bit of extra effort, since it means accurate fitting. The angles make it worse. That kind of things drives me nuts! I can be meticulous, but the patience can get tested!
Ok.
We'll see what comes up in the next day or so.
It is simply that I thought there may have been real basic general rules that builders of tapped horns know about, that was not mentioned in this thread as it WAS one of those real basic general things that builders of tapped horns know about!!!
If you all followed that haha.
To whit, (example only) 'line the box with a very thin layer of foam/glass/whatever just to rid the faint echo sound'....or maybe......'never line the box with anything'.
See? I just don't know, and it was not said one way or the other in the thread. In any case yes paul, there is a lot of eq available for these and yes, basically any top will be gone.
Cannot remember if I told you?? (just for background, and hence the little laugh we had before) Paul has been helping me design a 6th order bandpass. I did particularly want the classic BP response for what I was doing.
We worked out the design yada yada so I could take the four drivers I already have in a solidly built sealed enclosure and put them into the BP box that I had to build. As you can guess, complicated and a lot of work.
Duhh, and it is embarrassing when you realise how long it took you to think of it....I simply got back my DEQ I had lent to someone else-who was not using it anyway-and now I can dial in the perfect (better actually) bandpass response using the sealed boxes already sitting in the corner!!
No extra work, no building new boxes.
What an idiot.
So now build two of these fellas, fully eq'd as the front subs, the four*xls tens per box can then go as 'surround subs'. Will see how it sounds, but current plan is to run the 'rear' subs say 6db lower, but also delayed by twenty feet or something. <Might sound good, might sound crap, we'll see.
IIRC, there is a paper written by david greisinger about using subs to the side....will have to do a search. Hopefully one of you might know what this vague memory I have is and provide a link.
We'll see what comes up in the next day or so.
It is simply that I thought there may have been real basic general rules that builders of tapped horns know about, that was not mentioned in this thread as it WAS one of those real basic general things that builders of tapped horns know about!!!
If you all followed that haha.
To whit, (example only) 'line the box with a very thin layer of foam/glass/whatever just to rid the faint echo sound'....or maybe......'never line the box with anything'.
See? I just don't know, and it was not said one way or the other in the thread. In any case yes paul, there is a lot of eq available for these and yes, basically any top will be gone.
Cannot remember if I told you?? (just for background, and hence the little laugh we had before) Paul has been helping me design a 6th order bandpass. I did particularly want the classic BP response for what I was doing.
We worked out the design yada yada so I could take the four drivers I already have in a solidly built sealed enclosure and put them into the BP box that I had to build. As you can guess, complicated and a lot of work.
Duhh, and it is embarrassing when you realise how long it took you to think of it....I simply got back my DEQ I had lent to someone else-who was not using it anyway-and now I can dial in the perfect (better actually) bandpass response using the sealed boxes already sitting in the corner!!
No extra work, no building new boxes.
What an idiot.
So now build two of these fellas, fully eq'd as the front subs, the four*xls tens per box can then go as 'surround subs'. Will see how it sounds, but current plan is to run the 'rear' subs say 6db lower, but also delayed by twenty feet or something. <Might sound good, might sound crap, we'll see.
IIRC, there is a paper written by david greisinger about using subs to the side....will have to do a search. Hopefully one of you might know what this vague memory I have is and provide a link.
Terry, I'm not sure tapped horns are fully understood yet and I'm not completely up to speed on them so not the best one to answer. I've seen some measurements stuffed vs unstuffed and as you expect, the peaks get some damping. THs have things in common with transmission line, and they are stuffed for the same reason. Perhaps it's more common with TLs to use more stuffing as they usually are expected to run up higher.
You got me thinking about stuffing. I'm planning some horns (front loaded) and I was thinking about the idea of using stuffing to selectively absorb distortion products, ie the harmonics which are higher in frequency.
You got me thinking about stuffing. I'm planning some horns (front loaded) and I was thinking about the idea of using stuffing to selectively absorb distortion products, ie the harmonics which are higher in frequency.
Stuffing tapped horns.
Hi Y'all,
Stuffing as in a transmission line does not work for tapped horns, their function depends on the interaction of the front and back waves.
Take a look at geitman's Dual 8" thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/134369-dual-8-tapped-horn-th-spud.html
also, Henkjan's Akabak & stuffing:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/147015-akabak-stuffing.html
and, the DTS-10 thread in the AVS Forum has pictures of the recommended stuffing (as well as assorted rumors and experiences):
Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - AVS Forum
Basically, a little around the drivers (throat area), in the horn corners and maybe around the mouth area is all it takes, and the amount seems to depend largely on experimenting, as simulation will take you only so far (pictures from AVS - Ricci).
Regards,
Hi Y'all,
Stuffing as in a transmission line does not work for tapped horns, their function depends on the interaction of the front and back waves.
Take a look at geitman's Dual 8" thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/134369-dual-8-tapped-horn-th-spud.html
also, Henkjan's Akabak & stuffing:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/147015-akabak-stuffing.html
and, the DTS-10 thread in the AVS Forum has pictures of the recommended stuffing (as well as assorted rumors and experiences):
Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - AVS Forum
Basically, a little around the drivers (throat area), in the horn corners and maybe around the mouth area is all it takes, and the amount seems to depend largely on experimenting, as simulation will take you only so far (pictures from AVS - Ricci).
Regards,
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thanks tb. will browse those threads to glean the little about stuffing/
cheers
EDIT arrgghhh 230 pages??!!
I can see just a tiny bit of stuffing going in, rather than reading 200 odd pages!
Last quick one, 'stuffing'. The little pic lhad stuffing that looked white, so I assume not fibreglass. Just that white wadding from sewing stores?
cheers
EDIT arrgghhh 230 pages??!!
I can see just a tiny bit of stuffing going in, rather than reading 200 odd pages!
Last quick one, 'stuffing'. The little pic lhad stuffing that looked white, so I assume not fibreglass. Just that white wadding from sewing stores?
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Terry, it's only about 13" wide so bracing side to side might be a bit much - second thought, maybe not. Bracing along the length might help. Here's a pic I grabbed some time back from the big TH thread to give an idea what I mean. Stubby braces from each of the braces shown to the side walls would be how I'd try.
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For a minute there I thought you were taking a dig at Earl's design ... then I got it!