This is good stuff. Lighter, cheaper, less wasted energy (heat). And ready-made. Starting to order and test a few of these for the next build.
I'm curious why you use the ATX and booster instead of an adjustable supply like this:
DC 12V 3A 5A 10A 20A 25A 30A Regulated Transformer Power Supply For LED Light US | eBay
They have adjustable output and I'm guessing they will go to 13.5V.
I'm curious why you use the ATX and booster instead of an adjustable supply like this:
DC 12V 3A 5A 10A 20A 25A 30A Regulated Transformer Power Supply For LED Light US | eBay
They have adjustable output and I'm guessing they will go to 13.5V.
My one is working now 12V input / 210V output / 100mA DC load.
A few findings so far.
1. The module has current limit circuit, so we can connect huge capacitor. I connected 27000uF 250V, and it took 2 min to fill it out.
2. I use CLC (80uf + 8mH + 80uf), and the ripple is 0.3V 22.2K @220V. Increasing capacitor has little effect. I don't think it will audible in my project, but any suggestion to make it lower?
You could try using a coil in the Henrys instead of milliHenrys.
I use a bridge of HER308. The diodes need to be fast, otherwise they will heat up, fail shorted, and if the 12V supply has enough current, you WILL blow the FETs on the DC module.
Not sure why your supply would sag heavily unless something is wrong with the DC board since your load is only about 20W.
I had a module with a bad FET last week. The PSU went to 2V under load. If I had used a car battery, the FET would have exploded.
I use a bridge of HER308. The diodes need to be fast, otherwise they will heat up, fail shorted, and if the 12V supply has enough current, you WILL blow the FETs on the DC module.
Not sure why your supply would sag heavily unless something is wrong with the DC board since your load is only about 20W.
I had a module with a bad FET last week. The PSU went to 2V under load. If I had used a car battery, the FET would have exploded.
I use 4x HER308 bridge (based on your previous recommendation?), but I don't have large choke now. hmm, maybe FET is bad, let's see...
Thank you!
It really depends on the filter and the load, but generally 10s of mV. Higher on the higher power draws like a push pull amp that idles at 500mA, but in that case I only use one DC boost per job, so the ripple cancels in the output transformer. The preceding stages use additional modules.
Tight now, I am not using a 500W module, but I'll throw together a text rig and measure it on the scope later.
Tight now, I am not using a 500W module, but I'll throw together a text rig and measure it on the scope later.
I just ordered a new one of these it should be here Monday or Tuesday:
Amazon.com: Zerone Inverter Boost Module 500W DC 12V/24V to AC 18V 0-220V-380V Power Car ConverterBoard for Color TVLaptopComputer All Kinds of Computer Monitors: Electronics
I'll smoke test it when it gets here.
There is a smaller "150 watt" version.
Amazon.com: NOYITO 150W Micro Inverter DC 12V to 110V 172V 200V 220V Step-up Transformer: Home Audio & Theater
I had one of those running from a computer power supply. The output was rectified with 4 X UF4007's and filtered with a 100 uF ASC motor run cap. Somewhere around 100 watts of resistive load I started to smell something funny. Before I could figure out what it was, a cloud of smoke occurred. The "600 watt" PC supply fed the little board enough juice to lay waste to one of the fets, the input cap, and probably the transformer since it is now discolored. The UF4007's were not bad.
I got some "no name" Chinese 12 volt 30 amp SMPS supplies and some Meanwell 15 volt 200 watts supplies surplus. The Meanwells are much larger than the 360 watt no name. That's why I call this a smoke test. These power supplies tend to shut off when overloaded. The PC supply did not, since 40 or 50 amps was not too far above normal in a modern PC.
I have everything needed for a 1 KW tube amp build except for the power supply. I would like to build this thing while I'm still able to lift it. The two OPT's and a chassis consume most of the weight budget, so I need a light weight power source. Most of my DIY attempts at a line powered SMPS have proven to be capable of quickly converting silicon into charcoal.
Amazon.com: Zerone Inverter Boost Module 500W DC 12V/24V to AC 18V 0-220V-380V Power Car ConverterBoard for Color TVLaptopComputer All Kinds of Computer Monitors: Electronics
I'll smoke test it when it gets here.
There is a smaller "150 watt" version.
Amazon.com: NOYITO 150W Micro Inverter DC 12V to 110V 172V 200V 220V Step-up Transformer: Home Audio & Theater
I had one of those running from a computer power supply. The output was rectified with 4 X UF4007's and filtered with a 100 uF ASC motor run cap. Somewhere around 100 watts of resistive load I started to smell something funny. Before I could figure out what it was, a cloud of smoke occurred. The "600 watt" PC supply fed the little board enough juice to lay waste to one of the fets, the input cap, and probably the transformer since it is now discolored. The UF4007's were not bad.
I got some "no name" Chinese 12 volt 30 amp SMPS supplies and some Meanwell 15 volt 200 watts supplies surplus. The Meanwells are much larger than the 360 watt no name. That's why I call this a smoke test. These power supplies tend to shut off when overloaded. The PC supply did not, since 40 or 50 amps was not too far above normal in a modern PC.
I have everything needed for a 1 KW tube amp build except for the power supply. I would like to build this thing while I'm still able to lift it. The two OPT's and a chassis consume most of the weight budget, so I need a light weight power source. Most of my DIY attempts at a line powered SMPS have proven to be capable of quickly converting silicon into charcoal.
I have a few like the one you just bought, although I get the one with the heatsink included since the FETS are mounted with the screw facing the transformer.
The second one you listed is similar to the ones I use, but mine have a 280V output, and output both AC and DC with a switching speed of 37 kHz instead of 20 kHz. It will power a push pull 6P15P amp without mods.
I'm using one of these for my latest integrated amp. For a 1KW amp, you might want to use 2 per channel (parallel after the bridges), and power each channel with a 1200W ATX.
1000W DC12V TO AC 0-50V-110V-220V-330V high frequency inverter variable DC TO AC | eBay
Also, they don't have short protection so if the ATX can put out the current, you'll smoke the FETs (ask me how I know - RL207 is NOT fast recovery).
The second one you listed is similar to the ones I use, but mine have a 280V output, and output both AC and DC with a switching speed of 37 kHz instead of 20 kHz. It will power a push pull 6P15P amp without mods.
I'm using one of these for my latest integrated amp. For a 1KW amp, you might want to use 2 per channel (parallel after the bridges), and power each channel with a 1200W ATX.
1000W DC12V TO AC 0-50V-110V-220V-330V high frequency inverter variable DC TO AC | eBay
Also, they don't have short protection so if the ATX can put out the current, you'll smoke the FETs (ask me how I know - RL207 is NOT fast recovery).
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Thank you so much. I also wish to know the test condition (CLC value and actual output voltage at different current). My one tends to sag badly, while 280V without load from 220V tap. I find my diodes are UF5408, not HER308, but they should be the same.
UF5408-E3/54 Vishay Semiconductors | Mouser
This is the same as mine. Horrible reviews.
Please let us know if you can make it work.
Here's a picture of my latest kanged power supply. That transformer is there because I have a biasing board that needs a floating AC power source since it uses a doubler. It has dual secondaries so I'm using one for the bias module, and the other for the 12V standby voltage for the power switch board. That's why there is a lonely Chengxing cap. It doesn't need to be good in that position
I'll say while it works very well, it does cost more than a linear supply. However, it makes NO ******* HUM!!! and this ATX doesn't spin the fan unless it needs to so it's also silent!
My only tube amp with an EI transformer sounds like a substation FFS. 60Hz magnetic hum from the bell ends.
I'll say while it works very well, it does cost more than a linear supply. However, it makes NO ******* HUM!!! and this ATX doesn't spin the fan unless it needs to so it's also silent!
My only tube amp with an EI transformer sounds like a substation FFS. 60Hz magnetic hum from the bell ends.
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I got the converter yesterday. I haven't had the time to hook it up, but I find some inconsistencies. The spec and title of the listing on Amazon says DC12V/24V to AC 0-220V..... My board has a 16 volt 4700 uF electrolytic across the input. It's not going to like 24 volts.
Some of these boards come with heat sinks, some do not. Each mosfet is soldered at a different angle or height than the next, so using a predrilled heat sink is impossible. When I can find a usable heat sink, I'll fire this thing up.
Some of these boards come with heat sinks, some do not. Each mosfet is soldered at a different angle or height than the next, so using a predrilled heat sink is impossible. When I can find a usable heat sink, I'll fire this thing up.
Ya don't give it 24V LOL there is a 24V version apparently.
And it's for that reason I buy this one with the heatsink included...
500W 12VDC transfer 18VAC & 0-220v-380v inverter module | eBay
When I had one that I had blown up the MOSFETs, I removed them along with the heatsink to change them all. Maybe you could remove them and mount to a heatsink, then reinstall?
It was kind of a pain in the butt, but now that it has actual IRF3205, they probably won't blow up again.
There is no regulation. If you raise or lower the input voltage, the output voltage will change proportionally.
And it's for that reason I buy this one with the heatsink included...
500W 12VDC transfer 18VAC & 0-220v-380v inverter module | eBay
When I had one that I had blown up the MOSFETs, I removed them along with the heatsink to change them all. Maybe you could remove them and mount to a heatsink, then reinstall?
It was kind of a pain in the butt, but now that it has actual IRF3205, they probably won't blow up again.
There is no regulation. If you raise or lower the input voltage, the output voltage will change proportionally.
I have the same board. This should work with DC24V, but this cap has to be changed. Onboard chip max is 40V.
I powered it up with Meanwell 9A 24V adjusted to 19V, and 220V tap goes 250V or so for 200mA load. It sags depends on the load. Also I can't remove 20K ripple lower than 250mV whatever I did. I tried CRC, CLC, Ferrite. Dead FET?
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