Iron Pre Essentials Kits For The DIYA Store - Register Your Interest

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#4,401
blue360cuda said:
Alright! Got it all wrapped up today. Flipped the switch, no magical smoke or angry pixies dancing around - set the power, JFET current and DC offset no problem-o. Loving the the Mogami 2330 - will be using this for signal in future projects for sure. This thing sounds awesome! Dude, ZenMod - you're the man! This was a fun build for sure - appreciate the help here, awesome group of people. Special thanks to ZenMod, ItsAlllnMyHead and Birdbox! Can't forget Pappa Pass too! Such a fun hobby
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Hi, very nice and neat layout.

I really like to build this, but am not sure if there is any chance of the SE being restock.
 
#4,403
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Arnold-1.jpg
 
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#4,404
I think I know the answers here but wanted to check:

  1. the nub thing on the twister does not align with the hole cut-out, I assume thats safe to just cut off?
  2. the leds - the positive / long matches end faces inward right? EG the outer is the - / ground right?
    1. the way the traces look to my crap eyes shows that outer trace connecting for the leds. Each led trace seems to head to the pins of the connector so pretty sure I have it right
So close 😉 Everything is done except that twister board. I think its ready for power finally!
 
#4,405
1. You can cut it off.
2. See below

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If your Twister board looks like this (V.3), but is black... and it should...
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...then the other side should look like this...
1744152837596.png
The little C (Cathode) and the flat side on the silk screen are clearly marked.

Shout if it's unclear. It's a royal pain to turn them all around if you get it incorrect.
 
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#4,414
#4,416
Hi all - first post here. Transformer questions - I have Antek 0218 which has dual R/B AC input leads. I was originally planning on terminating one set of input leads with wire nuts and utilizing just one set. I was going to switch through the black + leads to the L post of the AC input and have red - go to N post. That would seem to agree with the wiring diagram in the build guide. But I also see in the build guide that the input leads are siamesed in a red pair and black pair and that the red is switched. Do I need to siamese the input wires into bundled pairs or red-red and black-black? Does it matter whether red or black go to L or N? Doesn't seem so. Still learning, thank you.
 
#4,419
My wiring:

Primary: Reds go to live, Blacks go to neutral
Secondary see https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...re-register-your-interest.390509/post-7974943

Because the PEM has a switch I am not using the toggle in the front. This thing will draw such a small amount of power I don't care enough to turn it off when not in-use. IF I decide to I have an overkill timer running on a microcontroller / power switch that I can just plug this in to.

If anyone wants the power controller thing I made ask - its not that complicated. Bit 'o python and some hardware.
 
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