Confused here - following the 6L6 build guide but when I went to mount to the chassis faceplate the anti rotation knob is opposite of the faceplate ?? Are we supposed to cut off the anti-rotation tab or did I do this backwards somehow?
Switch will work just fine as installed, it is electrically symmetrical inside. Remove the nub and mount it.
Thanks Gentlemen! Just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something silly before I got too far
Hey all quick question on wiring.
The guide shows the ac but I want to make sure I'm wiring it right. I'm using an antek supply with dual secondaries. Based on how the coils are set up each secondary is green/blue wired. I believe I should connect the green from coil 1 to ac1, the green from coil 2 to ac2. Then the blues would go to the CT - is that right?
I can't think if I wire it coil 1 green -> ac1, blue -> CT, then coil 2 green -> CT blue -> ac2 that would essentially double the voltage to the ac input wouldnt it?
the transformer I have is https://www.antekinc.com/as-0518-50va-18v-transformer/
Or because its a center tap the coil 1 green going to AC1, then coil 1 blue / coil 2 green becomes the center tap, then coil 2 blue going to ac2 - single coil in that mode? I just worry about giving a higher voltage unless my understanding of how that would work is just wrong!
The guide shows the ac but I want to make sure I'm wiring it right. I'm using an antek supply with dual secondaries. Based on how the coils are set up each secondary is green/blue wired. I believe I should connect the green from coil 1 to ac1, the green from coil 2 to ac2. Then the blues would go to the CT - is that right?
I can't think if I wire it coil 1 green -> ac1, blue -> CT, then coil 2 green -> CT blue -> ac2 that would essentially double the voltage to the ac input wouldnt it?
the transformer I have is https://www.antekinc.com/as-0518-50va-18v-transformer/
Or because its a center tap the coil 1 green going to AC1, then coil 1 blue / coil 2 green becomes the center tap, then coil 2 blue going to ac2 - single coil in that mode? I just worry about giving a higher voltage unless my understanding of how that would work is just wrong!
FWIW, i had the same question as blue360cuda during my build and assembled without nipping the post and turned out well.
If not too difficult and update to the build guide could be useful given all of the attention to orienting the board and switch and the hole on the face plate.
ZM Iron Pre singing lovely tunes in my space!
If not too difficult and update to the build guide could be useful given all of the attention to orienting the board and switch and the hole on the face plate.
ZM Iron Pre singing lovely tunes in my space!
green 1 to AC1
blue 1 to CT
green 2 to CT
blue 2 to AC2
surprise, surprise .......
Quick transformer question - I have a leftover transformer with 20v dual secondaries will that work for the iron pre SE? Or is the voltage too high?
goodenough.... meaning just go for it
just observe heatsinks temp on BD transistors
if you can keep finger on them for 5secs, all good
just observe heatsinks temp on BD transistors
if you can keep finger on them for 5secs, all good
Hey all,
What goes into j5 is that some calculated resistor? The diagram says 0U unless my eyes are that far gone!
Also curious - why does one side have the ntc but the other does not? I would have thought that assuming its an inrush current limiter like the other stuff I've seen that each channel would get its own?
What goes into j5 is that some calculated resistor? The diagram says 0U unless my eyes are that far gone!
Also curious - why does one side have the ntc but the other does not? I would have thought that assuming its an inrush current limiter like the other stuff I've seen that each channel would get its own?
speaking of what?
SE or Bal, which issue/revision?
or you're mistakenly writing about Krell KSA50, and just posted in wrong thread?
SE or Bal, which issue/revision?
or you're mistakenly writing about Krell KSA50, and just posted in wrong thread?
J5? Where are you looking on the boards? It's most likely J1. Assuming you have V3 or V4 / SMD boards, install a piece of wire or a left over lead unless you are using logic controls.
What version do you have?
One side? Again, need more clarity. Each board has one NTC. It's not for inrush. It's a ground lift. Inrush is also not based on a "channel". That ties to how the power supply is designed.
What version do you have?
One side? Again, need more clarity. Each board has one NTC. It's not for inrush. It's a ground lift. Inrush is also not based on a "channel". That ties to how the power supply is designed.
SE (any version) is having PSU common for both channels, and rails are locally decoupled with cap multipliers
so, just one NTC going from audio GND to chassis
Alright! Got it all wrapped up today. Flipped the switch, no magical smoke or angry pixies dancing around - set the power, JFET current and DC offset no problem-o. Loving the the Mogami 2330 - will be using this for signal in future projects for sure. This thing sounds awesome! Dude, ZenMod - you're the man! This was a fun build for sure - appreciate the help here, awesome group of people. Special thanks to ZenMod, ItsAlllnMyHead and Birdbox! Can't forget Pappa Pass too! Such a fun hobby
Looks great!
Curious did you try with add without the cover on the torroid? Mine is currently without - curious!
I certainly don't belong next to two giants like Zen Mod and ItsAllInMyHead. I'm not sure I did anything at all beyond posting some pics of my SE build long ago.
Clean layout. Looks great Cuda! Probably sounds even better 😊
@birdbox I appreciated your generosity and the grab bag of sweet custom parts 🙂
@Vunce - its a 360 😉 Fitting a big block let alone a hemi into an early Abody MoPar isn't for the faint of heart
@bilsch -No, I fired it up and did the testing / adjusting w/o the cover but never any listening than just my test speakers- didn't hear much for noise even with no cover though. Figured I bought it so might as well use it.
FWIW the aluminum knobs from modushop / HiFi2000 are very nice - if anyone orders a chassis from them I'd suggest tossing some knobs in the cart too!
@Vunce - its a 360 😉 Fitting a big block let alone a hemi into an early Abody MoPar isn't for the faint of heart
@bilsch -No, I fired it up and did the testing / adjusting w/o the cover but never any listening than just my test speakers- didn't hear much for noise even with no cover though. Figured I bought it so might as well use it.
FWIW the aluminum knobs from modushop / HiFi2000 are very nice - if anyone orders a chassis from them I'd suggest tossing some knobs in the cart too!