Any particular model?
Could you provide links to the speaker units you mention?
So both of you would prefer a 2 way system is that correct?
Any comments on a fullrange/coaxial build?
Will you have thread for it, I plan on doing a similar 800 series look a like in late 2010
I just finished an Ikea speaker too.
I used the small bowl version (20cm) an a Fountek FR88ex as the driver.
They are mounted on 3 ping-pong balls filled up with sand and epoxy to close them an support a screw.
The 2 bowls are assembled with a connecting wooden ring that I made with a router.
They will be painted by a friend artist later.
Here is the result so far:
Of course, they don't go very low (about 80Hz) but the sound is not bad even if I prefer my last full range with an other full range (TB 4")
Thanks for the idea!
I used the small bowl version (20cm) an a Fountek FR88ex as the driver.
They are mounted on 3 ping-pong balls filled up with sand and epoxy to close them an support a screw.
The 2 bowls are assembled with a connecting wooden ring that I made with a router.
They will be painted by a friend artist later.
Here is the result so far:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Of course, they don't go very low (about 80Hz) but the sound is not bad even if I prefer my last full range with an other full range (TB 4")
Thanks for the idea!
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Wah... you've a very good surface finish. It must taken you days for polishing.
It looks it's a BR.
I like your "ping pong" idea.
congratuation!
It looks it's a BR.
I like your "ping pong" idea.
congratuation!
Nice job, look really good. Did yours leave a bizarre dust like residue when sanding of the varnish? I tried oiling mine to get rid of it, but its still there is small patches of odd colouration. I like the photo's of them walking around the garden.
What colour are you going to choose?
I wanted to put long spikes on mine, ala Sputnik, was thinking of using ikea table legs (like the stands featured on 6moons site) to support them and get them to the right height.
Did you keep track of costs?
What colour are you going to choose?
I wanted to put long spikes on mine, ala Sputnik, was thinking of using ikea table legs (like the stands featured on 6moons site) to support them and get them to the right height.
Did you keep track of costs?
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The cost I forgot exactly...
I have to check if you really wanna know.
I sanded most of the varnish out I suppose...
The main problem I had was at the wooden connecting ring. The wood filler cracked a bit with weather change. I couldn't really get rid of it so I hope the paint job will "hide" that...
For the paint, I leave to a friend who is an artist and he will do what he wants...
I have to check if you really wanna know.
I sanded most of the varnish out I suppose...
The main problem I had was at the wooden connecting ring. The wood filler cracked a bit with weather change. I couldn't really get rid of it so I hope the paint job will "hide" that...
For the paint, I leave to a friend who is an artist and he will do what he wants...
@domtw, Darn, just checked your other projects, really really good work!
A rough estimate would be cool, so many american users on this forum, they seem to have an unfair advantage over access to drivers and prices.
Its nice to see some european work, and the reflected costs.
God bless Sketchup.
A rough estimate would be cool, so many american users on this forum, they seem to have an unfair advantage over access to drivers and prices.
Its nice to see some european work, and the reflected costs.
God bless Sketchup.
domtw:
Is there any filter for baffle step compensation in your build?
Im planning a similar build but with the Dayton SR100. I plan on first trying it without filter but then adding both baffle step compensation and a notch-filter for the breakup.
Is there any filter for baffle step compensation in your build?
Im planning a similar build but with the Dayton SR100. I plan on first trying it without filter but then adding both baffle step compensation and a notch-filter for the breakup.
I really like this idea, using Ikea stuff.
What would be great is if i can get my hands on a "water droplet" shape for behind half a bowl.
I love the water droplet shape B&W uses with some of their speakers (Nautilus and 800 series come to mind). Anyone know what can be used to create such a water droplet shape?
What would be great is if i can get my hands on a "water droplet" shape for behind half a bowl.
I love the water droplet shape B&W uses with some of their speakers (Nautilus and 800 series come to mind). Anyone know what can be used to create such a water droplet shape?
I tried to work this out. Its not a droplet shape (the exterior is) it is a tapering tube. The mouth, biggest bit should be the same size as the driver. I think the one in the link below is only 50mm in diameter though.
I thought about adding marine horn this to mine. If it works well as a horn, surely it must work well in reverse decreasing the rear wave energy?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180405549611#ht_3400wt_941
I thought about adding marine horn this to mine. If it works well as a horn, surely it must work well in reverse decreasing the rear wave energy?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180405549611#ht_3400wt_941
ksporry:
I'm now working on this, the ball shape is a styrofoam ball 30cm diameter, and still strugling to come up with idea on the back shape. I have the outline drawn, perhaps I make a wooden negative, put some styrofoam between two round wood pieces and stick it into a lathe.then having sanding paper on the negative form, just simply push it against the styrofoam to shape it.
basically construction B&W midrange shape using Fostex 168E Sigmas
very bad picture 🙂
I'll try to take a side shot later on
I'm now working on this, the ball shape is a styrofoam ball 30cm diameter, and still strugling to come up with idea on the back shape. I have the outline drawn, perhaps I make a wooden negative, put some styrofoam between two round wood pieces and stick it into a lathe.then having sanding paper on the negative form, just simply push it against the styrofoam to shape it.
basically construction B&W midrange shape using Fostex 168E Sigmas
very bad picture 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'll try to take a side shot later on
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🙂 hey, a good shape, at least to some point.a bit pricey though
Tall Red and White Tear Drop Vase Vitreous City
Tall Red and White Tear Drop Vase Vitreous City
What you need to do is now find a hemi-spherical bowl that fits the front. Sort of like the yellow "sqiggles" in my sketch,
dave
Attachments
This is the x-ray of the B&W they advocate a sphere, two holes of equal size for the driver/tapering tube.
This is my current 'suck it and see' build. Super cheap (well free) not entirely sure if they are transmission lines, tapering tubes or quarter lengths??
But they sound suprisingly sweet.
I plan to paper mache them to form a uniform and more inert shape as they are balancing. 8" full range and a 12" woofer active XO.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is my current 'suck it and see' build. Super cheap (well free) not entirely sure if they are transmission lines, tapering tubes or quarter lengths??
But they sound suprisingly sweet.
I plan to paper mache them to form a uniform and more inert shape as they are balancing. 8" full range and a 12" woofer active XO.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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My assumptions...
The internals of the tweeter section won't matter at all since there is no rear wave internally.
The mid woofer if sealed only has to be concerned with the back wave come back through too early.
The internals of the tweeter section won't matter at all since there is no rear wave internally.
The mid woofer if sealed only has to be concerned with the back wave come back through too early.
well guys here is a better look...still want to figure out the back shape...any ideas?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
If your making a mold, you should try googleing/ebaying 'wood finials'.
Come in all shapes and sizes, often dirt cheap a couple of pounds.
Come in all shapes and sizes, often dirt cheap a couple of pounds.
I was looking around and began considering this exact configuration! Nice that someone has already done it! It does look very funky 😎
Sims show that this driver in the ~4L enclosure these bowls create should play to 59Hz (-3dB), which on paper seems reasonable. Does the bass sound lacking?
I am probably being naive, but why can't the bowls simply be glued together to make a sphere? Why was a connecting ring required? Are they not the exact same diameter or flat around the tops, or is it just to make it more spherical, less squashed looking? What was the reason to sand them so heavily too, just for painting? I'd also like to flush mount the drivers, would there be enough material left to do this?
Also, in general with these spherical designs, are there any additional condiderations? Surely a sphere creates a single strong internal resonance, is it completely tamed by damping material? Also, I can't model the baffle effects, I know this profile is supposed to be "good" but what does it mean in terms of baffle step correction? Does placing one of these designs near a wall mess up the response badly?
Sorry for all the questions!