Anything that moves the spape closer to the Nautilus series midrange pods is a good thing AFAIK.
Shouldn't be an issue.
Yes, but haven't yet been abletodoanything yet.
dave
I thought that too when I checked out Ikea UK, however, I subsequently found that I had missed a drop down list of different sizes on the Blanda web page. Its now made of bamboo though, not as nice looking as the original wood ones imo.
Ray
Thanks Ray,
I'll check if that's the same here in Holland...
If the wood is not that beautiful you can always paint it...
I'll check if that's the same here in Holland...
If the wood is not that beautiful you can always paint it...
Ray,
I checked and I overlooked the dropdown listbox too..
Blanda is in 5", 8" and 11" bamboo, which is not that nice looking as the wooden once did.
I checked and I overlooked the dropdown listbox too..
Blanda is in 5", 8" and 11" bamboo, which is not that nice looking as the wooden once did.
Here is an odd idea
I come with a way to make the same thing exactly but with ceramic or porselan bowls
Does anyone think that worth trying ?
I am going 2way with an external tweeter ...
Kind regards
Sakis
I come with a way to make the same thing exactly but with ceramic or porselan bowls
Does anyone think that worth trying ?
I am going 2way with an external tweeter ...
Kind regards
Sakis
Would require dampening pads applied to the interior to prevent the ringing thatis inherent to ceramics. Otherwise go for it.
I've been inspired by reading the thread, and decided to make some two way speakers using the a pair of the 20 cm Blanda Matt bowls for a 4" woofer and putting one of the little 12 cm bowls up as a hump on the front above the woofer with enough forward facing space to mount a tweeter.
I've modelled the SB Acoustics SB12MNRX25-4 4" midrange driver, and it seems it will be okay in a volume of only 2.26 litres, so ideal for the medium bowls, which have 3 litres before losses to the drive unit and any stuffing.
SB Acoustics :: 4" SB12MNRX25-4
For the tweeter, I'm considering the Vifa BC25SC-06/04 1" textile dome tweeter. This has a small round faceplate I hope I can set into the face of the small bowl. It also does not seem to project back too far.
Transducer Detail | Tymphany
I have modelled the possible box response and crossover using Jeff Bagby's tools, available from Jeff Bagby's Software Page and following the useful guide on how to use these given on Paul Carmody's page here https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/simulated-measurements. I had to approximate the shape of the bowl as an 8" square face with 2" rounded corners, as the tools are only set up for rectangular shapes, but it should be close.
Here is the overall response including the box effect (baffle step mainly and a little diffraction from the 2" radius I put in) with the tweeter in phase and inverted.
The crossover is pretty simple for the woofer, just a 1.75 mH inductor in series (assumed to have a 0.1 Ohm resistance), and a 16 uF cap in parallel. As the woofer seems not to have anything too harsh going on at the top end, there is not much need for more.
For the tweeter, the crossover is a 10 uF cap in series, then a 0.5 mH inductor (0.2 ohm resistance) in parallel, then a 4 uF cap and an 11 ohm resistor in series again, and then a final parallel leg with three elements to give a nice flat impedance to the tweeter. This final parallel leg has a 16 uF cap, a 5 ohm resistor and a 0.9 mH inductor all in series with each other.
I'm planning to start putting this together over what's left of the summer, so hopefully it can be ready for Christmas. I've bought an Audiosector LM4780 Amplifier Kit to power these, and am thinking of using all four channels to bi-amp the speakers. DIY Chip Amplifier Kits, PCB's, Components and Information.
If anyone has done something similar, I'd be glad to hear how it worked out!
I've modelled the SB Acoustics SB12MNRX25-4 4" midrange driver, and it seems it will be okay in a volume of only 2.26 litres, so ideal for the medium bowls, which have 3 litres before losses to the drive unit and any stuffing.
SB Acoustics :: 4" SB12MNRX25-4
For the tweeter, I'm considering the Vifa BC25SC-06/04 1" textile dome tweeter. This has a small round faceplate I hope I can set into the face of the small bowl. It also does not seem to project back too far.
Transducer Detail | Tymphany
I have modelled the possible box response and crossover using Jeff Bagby's tools, available from Jeff Bagby's Software Page and following the useful guide on how to use these given on Paul Carmody's page here https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/simulated-measurements. I had to approximate the shape of the bowl as an 8" square face with 2" rounded corners, as the tools are only set up for rectangular shapes, but it should be close.
Here is the overall response including the box effect (baffle step mainly and a little diffraction from the 2" radius I put in) with the tweeter in phase and inverted.
The crossover is pretty simple for the woofer, just a 1.75 mH inductor in series (assumed to have a 0.1 Ohm resistance), and a 16 uF cap in parallel. As the woofer seems not to have anything too harsh going on at the top end, there is not much need for more.
For the tweeter, the crossover is a 10 uF cap in series, then a 0.5 mH inductor (0.2 ohm resistance) in parallel, then a 4 uF cap and an 11 ohm resistor in series again, and then a final parallel leg with three elements to give a nice flat impedance to the tweeter. This final parallel leg has a 16 uF cap, a 5 ohm resistor and a 0.9 mH inductor all in series with each other.
I'm planning to start putting this together over what's left of the summer, so hopefully it can be ready for Christmas. I've bought an Audiosector LM4780 Amplifier Kit to power these, and am thinking of using all four channels to bi-amp the speakers. DIY Chip Amplifier Kits, PCB's, Components and Information.
If anyone has done something similar, I'd be glad to hear how it worked out!
That would be amazing
They are for my 10 year old daughter, so if she likes the idea it will be so.
I've seen in another thread people using Ikea plate warmers as amp cases, which look good too.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/163232-100-reasons-go-ikea-6.html#post2859614
I was looking for more on the SB 4" woofers I'm planning to use and found this thread http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/216030-sb-acoustics-sb12mnrx25-4-full-range-build-thread.html which prompted me to wonder if the SB12MNRX25-4 can be used full range, why would I think I need to cross over from them at 2.2 kHz? It's also nice to read someone giving a good opinion of the sound of this unit too.
So, I thought about a higher crossover, to a less expensive 0.75" tweeter, the Dayton ND20FA-6 Dayton Audio ND20FA-6 3/4" Neodymium Dome Tweeter 6 Ohm
I can get this to cross at just under 4 kHz, with the crossovers shown below (pictures from the spreadsheet, sorry)
So, this might be better than using the bigger tweeter from a construction point of view, so might be a better option.
So, I thought about a higher crossover, to a less expensive 0.75" tweeter, the Dayton ND20FA-6 Dayton Audio ND20FA-6 3/4" Neodymium Dome Tweeter 6 Ohm
I can get this to cross at just under 4 kHz, with the crossovers shown below (pictures from the spreadsheet, sorry)
So, this might be better than using the bigger tweeter from a construction point of view, so might be a better option.
Hi, If I were to make that project, I would Use 2 fused Small bowls for the tweeter, then cut a round opening in the half-back of the small bowl and put it on your picture Dr.Nick. But I would arrange it so that the front of the twitter align verticaly with the main Driver.
Just My input.
Regards...
Marc
Just My input.
Regards...
Marc
Thanks, it could certainly be done with two bowls for the tweeter.
I'm working on the basis that the acoustic center of the tweeter will be about 15 mm ahead of that of the woofer at the moment, given the cone shape of the woofer, which may well mean the fronts line up. I have no idea if this is correct, I might have to get another of the 12 cm bowls and experiment a bit with the alignment when I build the crossover.
Hi DrNick, I'm not familiar with the dayton tweeter, but certainly I would say that the SB could be crossed over as high as 4Khz (from an on axis FR pov). It does sound a bit ragged in the highs running full range but it is not (to my aging ears) too bad. I suspect that raggedness is the breakup between 5 and 10Khz.
From a directionality point of view I'm not sure, I didn't do any off axis measurements of it (that I can remember) so I'm not sure when it starts to beam. Actually I just looked at the datasheet and I think that is where you got your 2.2Khz from... after about 2.2Khz it starts to get directional. It's down about 2.5db at 4Khz at 30deg off axis.
I'd have to brush up on my crossover theory to know whether this is going to be an issue but I suspect the answer is that it should be fine 🙂
Tony.
There is another thread discussing the merits of the different SB Acoustics drivers on this board http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/277791-sbacoustics-mid.html, which prompted me to look at the different options, and after running a few WinISD models to look at the bass, I've ordered two SB15NRXC30-8 midwoofers and two SB26STCN-C000-4 tweeters. This combination is almost the same as Jeff Babgy's Sopranos Sopranos (Pair), except I've gone for the 8 ohm woofer.
I've modelled the crossover and it should work at pretty much bang on 2 kHz with these drivers with a 4th order LR target. A 4th order electrical crossover on the woofer and third order electrical crossover on the tweeter seems to fit the target pretty well. I'm going to get the drive units mounted and measure them with no crossover before I order any crossover components as the cabinet geometry is hardly standard, and although I've tried to model the bowls as boxes of abnormally large edge radius, I really don't know if this is going to be close. I'll only aim for 82 dB so not so sensitive, but I hope there will still be enough power for bedroom listening with no problem.
I do not have a measurement mic at present so was thinking of getting a Behringer ECM8000, and a USB preamp like this one Focusrite Scarlett Solo and seeing what software is available.
I've modelled the crossover and it should work at pretty much bang on 2 kHz with these drivers with a 4th order LR target. A 4th order electrical crossover on the woofer and third order electrical crossover on the tweeter seems to fit the target pretty well. I'm going to get the drive units mounted and measure them with no crossover before I order any crossover components as the cabinet geometry is hardly standard, and although I've tried to model the bowls as boxes of abnormally large edge radius, I really don't know if this is going to be close. I'll only aim for 82 dB so not so sensitive, but I hope there will still be enough power for bedroom listening with no problem.
I do not have a measurement mic at present so was thinking of getting a Behringer ECM8000, and a USB preamp like this one Focusrite Scarlett Solo and seeing what software is available.
Spherical speaker
I have two SEAS H 1602 L12RE/XFC which is a 4,5"/1" coax speaker. I have calculated the volume needed for fB 64 Hz and f-3dB 67 Hz. Including the speaker (flush mounted), tubes (3 pcs 18 mm dia.) filter and losses gives 2,5 litres...seems almost perfect to use them into the IKEA 20cm (3 liters) bowl. However there is a lack of 0,2 litres so I might move the filter outside the bowl which is good anyway to avoid the magnetical fields.
Has anyone experience with this speaker in the IKEA bowl?
I have two SEAS H 1602 L12RE/XFC which is a 4,5"/1" coax speaker. I have calculated the volume needed for fB 64 Hz and f-3dB 67 Hz. Including the speaker (flush mounted), tubes (3 pcs 18 mm dia.) filter and losses gives 2,5 litres...seems almost perfect to use them into the IKEA 20cm (3 liters) bowl. However there is a lack of 0,2 litres so I might move the filter outside the bowl which is good anyway to avoid the magnetical fields.
Has anyone experience with this speaker in the IKEA bowl?
Just recalculated some to tune it to 63 Hz - 2,6 litres, 3 pcs 18x200 mm pipes excluding the filter makes it possible. Not a total flat response but close enough.