It seems that those bowls are not longer sold in the USA. I did not seem them on my last visit to Ikea and they don't show up on the USA website. Are they gone?
Studio Au. Looking back at the beginning of the thread I see I missed something. A horse! Or what looks like a life size plaster horse. What's that all about?
Studio Au. Looking back at the beginning of the thread I see I missed something. A horse! Or what looks like a life size plaster horse. What's that all about?
My Dad collects 'craft' and 'art' tigers from around the world, this one is a life size fibre glass one from a carnival float, primed for re-painting. He has well over 300 mask and figures.
Pano,
I think they are available still, slightly different grain structure. BLANDA MATT Serving bowl - 11 " - IKEA other sizes are available in pull down (5 in 8 in)
I noticed that the bowls are on special in Australia, and the small ones had sold out. This is sometimes a sign of things being discontinued. It did mean I saved a few bucks on the speakers though!
Now I have a pair of 28 cm bowls I too =)
It's going to be an upwards mounted mid and I'm wondering on the best way to strengthen the bowl when mounting the driver since it's a fat 6.5 inch midrange weighing 3.8 kg =)
My current ideas are:
1. Glue a ring on the inside where the driver is mounted. Would it be strong enough though?
2. Make a ring of steel and place on the outside so the driver is mounted in this plate instead.
3. (1) but also design such that the magnet weight is offloaded on internal bracing.
4. (1) but instead of offloading magnet from below add bracing on the sides to strengthen it up.
5. ???
It's going to be an upwards mounted mid and I'm wondering on the best way to strengthen the bowl when mounting the driver since it's a fat 6.5 inch midrange weighing 3.8 kg =)
My current ideas are:
1. Glue a ring on the inside where the driver is mounted. Would it be strong enough though?
2. Make a ring of steel and place on the outside so the driver is mounted in this plate instead.
3. (1) but also design such that the magnet weight is offloaded on internal bracing.
4. (1) but instead of offloading magnet from below add bracing on the sides to strengthen it up.
5. ???
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When I was drilling the driver hole and clearing for the flush mount I accidently cracked the bowl : /
Sure the glue holds it OK but then considering my strength fears I thought "screw it! I'll use fiberglass!" and so that's exactly what I did... It's probably borderline indestructible now my fears have been chased away =)
Sure the glue holds it OK but then considering my strength fears I thought "screw it! I'll use fiberglass!" and so that's exactly what I did... It's probably borderline indestructible now my fears have been chased away =)
Attachments
Progress!
The extra bits are mounts for my tweeters which will be in a ring around the midrange. Current plan is to cover the whole inside and outside with wool carpet... but might be overkill so perhaps I'll settle for covering only backs of the tweeters on the outside and around the edge of the midrange.
The extra bits are mounts for my tweeters which will be in a ring around the midrange. Current plan is to cover the whole inside and outside with wool carpet... but might be overkill so perhaps I'll settle for covering only backs of the tweeters on the outside and around the edge of the midrange.
Attachments
A double isobaric push push, and my spherical CSS FR125 "Galacticons", made from aluminum "Galaxis Space Scanner" housings from lockheed.
On distortion cancellation- I definitely find it to be massively valuable in subs. John K at music and design did a study on isobaric vs push pull and found that isobaric was severely limited for distortion cancellation based upon the additional compliance between woofers, so clamshells must be made with this volume minimized (or some coupling between cones, I've thought a carefully designed cardboard tube and permanent mountings of the clamshell assembly would work very well here.
I made my clamshells with 1/4" between frames, instead of a normal .75" baffle to minimize the compliance volume.
Isobaric
Has someone commercialised them?
Kugel 871C - Lautsprechershop von blue planet acoustic
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Kugel 871C - Lautsprechershop von blue planet acoustic
not really...
BPA or Blue Planet Acoustics is the Distributor of Tang Band speakers.
BPA has a "kit distribution" branch called "OAudio"
Here oadudio is selling their: "Tang Band W3-871OEM chassis"
for a speaker developed by a German Speaker Mag called HOBBY HiFi
HOBBY HiFi 4/2008 is actually older than this thread
The "oa"-Kit consists of 2 Parts:
(1) Their W3-871OEM
_and_
2 "half" bowls "Blanda Matt available at IKEA"
go figure...
BPA or Blue Planet Acoustics is the Distributor of Tang Band speakers.
BPA has a "kit distribution" branch called "OAudio"
Here oadudio is selling their: "Tang Band W3-871OEM chassis"
for a speaker developed by a German Speaker Mag called HOBBY HiFi
HOBBY HiFi 4/2008 is actually older than this thread
The "oa"-Kit consists of 2 Parts:
(1) Their W3-871OEM
_and_
2 "half" bowls "Blanda Matt available at IKEA"
go figure...
Guys,
What about combining Ikea's 28cm bowl with 28 lamp cover (of course damped from inside say by bitumen pads used in car installations) which together will form smth very similar to midrande enclosure of B&W Diamonds 801/802. This enclosure can be sealed ported or aperiodic - depending what works better.
Someone tried it? I'm probably going to, as much as I love my open baffles - having to maintain >1m from the back wall doesnt really work for my living room, and placing OBs closer causes smeared imaging and details.
Any thoughts and suggestions on the subject welcome!
What about combining Ikea's 28cm bowl with 28 lamp cover (of course damped from inside say by bitumen pads used in car installations) which together will form smth very similar to midrande enclosure of B&W Diamonds 801/802. This enclosure can be sealed ported or aperiodic - depending what works better.
Someone tried it? I'm probably going to, as much as I love my open baffles - having to maintain >1m from the back wall doesnt really work for my living room, and placing OBs closer causes smeared imaging and details.
Any thoughts and suggestions on the subject welcome!