Can you explain your question more?
Ian
Hi Ian, to clarify I rephrase my question and give information about the setup:
I want to avoid an extra psu, so I like to share an existing psu also for continuous current for MinilifePO4 3,3 V. (For the first start up of the MiniLifePo4 I have a seperate 5V psu).
I have a psu for using a Kali Isolator cleanside (11V) and using 3,3 V NewclassD regulator for the ReclockerPi. The intention is to use the MiniLifePO4 3.3V for the ReclockPi
The FiFOpi cleanside 3,3V/SinePi is connected to an UCCondioner 3,3V and a 3.3V DDDAC PSU. And I like to have the FIFOpi + sinePi seperate from the psu for the reclockPi.
The setup is now RPI4 (+psu), Kali Isolator (+psu), FIFOpi Q3 + SinePi (plus UCC+ PSU (+Andrea Mori clocks , plus TWTMC psu) + ReclockPi (same as Kali psu) + DDDAC1794 (+DDDAC psu).
So, which psu could I share best for the MiniLifePO4?
Hi @iancanada
Many thanks for your education on this site. I wouldn't be able to push through with these projects without your guidance.
I finally found time to implement the previous + current GB. It sux when the only time to implement these projects is end of the year holidays.
Here's an off the grid Super Cap solution that's an underrated option:
LiFePO₄ Mini 6.6V + LinearPi Solo 5V + UcConditioner 5V
I'm loving it as where else can you find a off the grid 5V Super Cap solution? My appreciation grows for your products on each implement.
In the photo attachments, you may be able to notice the lights are enabled. I didn't know being off the mains was possible and even more amazed now.
My journey has ended on this site, but I'll be back for more power supplies in the future via your gmail. I completely trust your power solutions. It's just the battery / ultra cap / protection board ecosystem I need to heavily research before welcoming into the home.
Amazing product line. I wouldn't mind a PCI-e USB board w/ the ability of utilising Andrea's 24MHz clock one day. RPi third-party boards w/ PCI-e seem to be trending. PCI-e allows isolation from the processing so clean silent USB output.
This website will dramatically change soon, so since I do not like change it's a good time to step away. I like the current nostalgia.
Take good care.
Many thanks for your education on this site. I wouldn't be able to push through with these projects without your guidance.
I finally found time to implement the previous + current GB. It sux when the only time to implement these projects is end of the year holidays.
Here's an off the grid Super Cap solution that's an underrated option:
LiFePO₄ Mini 6.6V + LinearPi Solo 5V + UcConditioner 5V
I'm loving it as where else can you find a off the grid 5V Super Cap solution? My appreciation grows for your products on each implement.
In the photo attachments, you may be able to notice the lights are enabled. I didn't know being off the mains was possible and even more amazed now.
My journey has ended on this site, but I'll be back for more power supplies in the future via your gmail. I completely trust your power solutions. It's just the battery / ultra cap / protection board ecosystem I need to heavily research before welcoming into the home.
Amazing product line. I wouldn't mind a PCI-e USB board w/ the ability of utilising Andrea's 24MHz clock one day. RPi third-party boards w/ PCI-e seem to be trending. PCI-e allows isolation from the processing so clean silent USB output.
This website will dramatically change soon, so since I do not like change it's a good time to step away. I like the current nostalgia.
Take good care.
Attachments
Last edited:
Hi Ian, to clarify I rephrase my question and give information about the setup:
I want to avoid an extra psu, so I like to share an existing psu also for continuous current for MinilifePO4 3,3 V. (For the first start up of the MiniLifePo4 I have a seperate 5V psu).
I have a psu for using a Kali Isolator cleanside (11V) and using 3,3 V NewclassD regulator for the ReclockerPi. The intention is to use the MiniLifePO4 3.3V for the ReclockPi
The FiFOpi cleanside 3,3V/SinePi is connected to an UCCondioner 3,3V and a 3.3V DDDAC PSU. And I like to have the FIFOpi + sinePi seperate from the psu for the reclockPi.
The setup is now RPI4 (+psu), Kali Isolator (+psu), FIFOpi Q3 + SinePi (plus UCC+ PSU (+Andrea Mori clocks , plus TWTMC psu) + ReclockPi (same as Kali psu) + DDDAC1794 (+DDDAC psu).
So, which psu could I share best for the MiniLifePO4?
That would be up to you 🙂
Regards,
Ian
@A123
here my modifications of the TransportPi
Hello! Tell me, what kind of transformer have you installed?
With murata, a non-isolated spdif sounds much better. Please tell us about your experience.
@A123
Just recall my TransportPi design.
To achieve a better low jitter performance, TransportPi makes one more time re-clock. So, it will need a MCLK minimal at 256Fs. That means, for a 44.1KHz music, the lowest MCLK frequency will be 11.2896MHz.
22.5792MHz and 45.1584MHz are also good to go no problem.
Regards,
Ian
Thanks Ian!
^ Great share between the above two. I'll be pulling my hair out otherwise and stuck in purgatory, so forever grateful. I can now just wrap up on this site and focus on the doubler to finish off my projects goals.
I'll check out the Murata too. I was planning to experiment with the Lundahl one day since I have a backup TransportPi. But everything is on hold until I get the Andrea clock running with a doubler (future Andrea GB).
I'll check out the Murata too. I was planning to experiment with the Lundahl one day since I have a backup TransportPi. But everything is on hold until I get the Andrea clock running with a doubler (future Andrea GB).
Hello! Tell me, what kind of transformer have you installed?
With murata, a non-isolated spdif sounds much better. Please tell us about your experience.
I bought this here HiEnd fever audio digital signal cattle output isolation transformer SC947-02LF | eBay. However, it was much cheaper back then.
I made a small adapter board for it.
Attachments
Hi guys,
just got sine-pi and was trying to find a link to order the oscillator in the pictures for the oven install but cannot find it despite some searching through the threads. What external oscillator is recommended?
just got sine-pi and was trying to find a link to order the oscillator in the pictures for the oven install but cannot find it despite some searching through the threads. What external oscillator is recommended?
What external oscillator is recommended?
DDDAC does a pretty good comparison of some of the oscillators available. See his blog DDDAC - Sharing my DIY audiophile Projects
I think the best is the 5MHz Drisco by Andrea Mori. He is no longer a member here.
You can contact him through his web site,
THE WELL Audio – diy audio devices (THE WELL Audio – diy audio devices)
DDDAC does a pretty good comparison of some of the oscillators available. See his blog DDDAC - Sharing my DIY audiophile Projects
I think the best is the 5MHz Drisco by Andrea Mori. He is no longer a member here.
You can contact him through his web site,
THE WELL Audio – diy audio devices (THE WELL Audio – diy audio devices)
@iancanada i see on another thread you write about upcoming station pro (Unless I misunderstood) What is the main development from current station Please?
Hi Ian. Finally got my account sorted. Quick question for the forum, not sure if this is the right place to ask. I'm using ropieee with my fifopi/transport pi stack via i2s to my dac.. what would be an appropriate selection from from the DAC option in ropieee ? i current am only able to play DSD over PCM with the Raspberry Pi DAC. Prefer playing DSD directly.
Attachments
I have been running the hdmipi transmitter on top of the FifoPi for a few months now, and it sounds great. I noticed that the "manual" for the HdmiPi states that it would be better to use u.fl cables from the FifoPi, but all this time I assumed that it was already running through the better clocks through the isolated GPIO (J7).
Have I been wrong? Should I be using u.fl cables between the FifoPi and HdmiPi transmitter.
Note also that although I connect MCLK with a u.fl cable, in theory I don't need MCLK since I am using a PS Directstream. It came with one cable for MCLK, so if I don't use it, I know I'm going to lose it.
Have I been wrong? Should I be using u.fl cables between the FifoPi and HdmiPi transmitter.
Note also that although I connect MCLK with a u.fl cable, in theory I don't need MCLK since I am using a PS Directstream. It came with one cable for MCLK, so if I don't use it, I know I'm going to lose it.
Hi Ian,
I have put 2 of the lifepo4 mini 3.3v into use. They are connected with a uchybrid to j8. It seems that the relais is broken now on both units. When in off position the output j7 still keeps 1.3v of power.
I remember having a similar problem with my battery board, you might also remember this (I still did not get around replacing the relais)
Can it be that the ultracapacitors low impedance causes arcing on the contacts of the relais causing them to malfunction?
I have put 2 of the lifepo4 mini 3.3v into use. They are connected with a uchybrid to j8. It seems that the relais is broken now on both units. When in off position the output j7 still keeps 1.3v of power.
I remember having a similar problem with my battery board, you might also remember this (I still did not get around replacing the relais)
Can it be that the ultracapacitors low impedance causes arcing on the contacts of the relais causing them to malfunction?
Attachments
Would i be able to power the Fifopi by the 3.3V from the raspberry output while waiting for my Lifep04 batteries to turn up ?
Hello Supersurfer,
I just '' installed '' the old lifepo4 board which supplies 3 3,3 volt to UcHybrid boards and they seem to be working like a Christmas tree.
The new Lifepo4 mini boards are designed to work more '' independently '' from the power coming from the wall which is a big benefit. I mean just leave them on all the time.
I would like to knopw if this relais problem can be solved before replacing my old board.
Probably will wait for the next '' generation '' of supercaps with improved specs.
Not sure yet what to use for the 5 volt Raspberry supply. Doede's supply or the one from Ian. It will be easier to use the one from Doede with choke input.
Greetings, Eduard
I just '' installed '' the old lifepo4 board which supplies 3 3,3 volt to UcHybrid boards and they seem to be working like a Christmas tree.
The new Lifepo4 mini boards are designed to work more '' independently '' from the power coming from the wall which is a big benefit. I mean just leave them on all the time.
I would like to knopw if this relais problem can be solved before replacing my old board.
Probably will wait for the next '' generation '' of supercaps with improved specs.
Not sure yet what to use for the 5 volt Raspberry supply. Doede's supply or the one from Ian. It will be easier to use the one from Doede with choke input.
Greetings, Eduard
Dear Ian /Folks,
There is an inquiry on option 3.3v DC input for 'HDMiPi Transmitter' and 'HDMIPi Receiver'. Please refer to below for the details.
For the 3.3v direct-connected upgrade option- 'HDMiPi Transmitter':
1a: Which in and out should be bridged together? Since there are 'in /out' pins on the '3.3v regulator board' and ''in /out which nearby C24 position.
1b: once L1 removed and bridged the 'in /out' together. Does the last step is to connect the 3.3v DC input into the J3 terminal block?
1c: Is any conflict when directly connecting the 3.3v input into 'HDMIpi Transmitter' which stack on the 'FifoPi Q3'. In this case, the 'HDMIpi Transmitter' is stacked on the 'FifoPi Q3'.
For the 3.3v direct-connected upgrade option- 'HDMiPi Receiver':
2a: Which in and out should be bridged together? Since there are 'in /out' pins on the '3.3v regulator board' and ''in /out which nearby C12 position.
2b: once L4 removed and bridged the 'in /out' together. Does the last step is to connect the 3.3v DC input into the J8 terminal block?
Thanks.
There is an inquiry on option 3.3v DC input for 'HDMiPi Transmitter' and 'HDMIPi Receiver'. Please refer to below for the details.
For the 3.3v direct-connected upgrade option- 'HDMiPi Transmitter':
1a: Which in and out should be bridged together? Since there are 'in /out' pins on the '3.3v regulator board' and ''in /out which nearby C24 position.
1b: once L1 removed and bridged the 'in /out' together. Does the last step is to connect the 3.3v DC input into the J3 terminal block?
1c: Is any conflict when directly connecting the 3.3v input into 'HDMIpi Transmitter' which stack on the 'FifoPi Q3'. In this case, the 'HDMIpi Transmitter' is stacked on the 'FifoPi Q3'.
For the 3.3v direct-connected upgrade option- 'HDMiPi Receiver':
2a: Which in and out should be bridged together? Since there are 'in /out' pins on the '3.3v regulator board' and ''in /out which nearby C12 position.
2b: once L4 removed and bridged the 'in /out' together. Does the last step is to connect the 3.3v DC input into the J8 terminal block?
Thanks.
Attachments
Thanks allot Caleb ! this has helped me heaps! appreciate having this pointed out.Dear Ian /Folks,
There is an inquiry on option 3.3v DC input for 'HDMiPi Transmitter' and 'HDMIPi Receiver'. Please refer to below for the details.
For the 3.3v direct-connected upgrade option- 'HDMiPi Transmitter':
1a: Which in and out should be bridged together? Since there are 'in /out' pins on the '3.3v regulator board' and ''in /out which nearby C24 position.
1b: once L1 removed and bridged the 'in /out' together. Does the last step is to connect the 3.3v DC input into the J3 terminal block?
1c: Is any conflict when directly connecting the 3.3v input into 'HDMIpi Transmitter' which stack on the 'FifoPi Q3'. In this case, the 'HDMIpi Transmitter' is stacked on the 'FifoPi Q3'.
For the 3.3v direct-connected upgrade option- 'HDMiPi Receiver':
2a: Which in and out should be bridged together? Since there are 'in /out' pins on the '3.3v regulator board' and ''in /out which nearby C12 position.
2b: once L4 removed and bridged the 'in /out' together. Does the last step is to connect the 3.3v DC input into the J8 terminal block?
Thanks.
Ian, any update on when the new station pi is going to be released ? any teasing pictures ?
Fifopi has changed my listening experience! Thanks for such a great product.
Hi Eduard,Hello Supersurfer,
I just '' installed '' the old lifepo4 board which supplies 3 3,3 volt to UcHybrid boards and they seem to be working like a Christmas tree.
The new Lifepo4 mini boards are designed to work more '' independently '' from the power coming from the wall which is a big benefit. I mean just leave them on all the time.
I would like to knopw if this relais problem can be solved before replacing my old board.
Probably will wait for the next '' generation '' of supercaps with improved specs.
Not sure yet what to use for the 5 volt Raspberry supply. Doede's supply or the one from Ian. It will be easier to use the one from Doede with choke input.
Greetings, Eduard
I have at least 4 damaged relais (at least because I am not sure if 2 or 3 relais on my rev1 battery board are damaged), the 2 lifepo4 mini board displayed the voltage problem already on the test bench, they were not even put into use, only tested with uchybrids connected.
The one thing I can think of is the current draw from the ultracapacitors is damaging the relais.
I am looking forward to the reply from Ian and if there are more people with similar issues.
Regards,
Hello Stefan,
I just wrote my friend to not get the big lifepo4 board but some lifepo4 boards. I better tell him to wait a little while!
Maybe the ultracaps need to be '' precharged '' or need to be charged at a lower current ( UcPure allows you to choose between 3 and 1,5A)
Anyhow there is something to be tackled by Ian . Probably if there is an issue it means that graduall;y there will be more people having trouble because the quality of the relais will go down if it stressed every time there will be a new charging '' cycle ''
Greetings, Eduard
I just wrote my friend to not get the big lifepo4 board but some lifepo4 boards. I better tell him to wait a little while!
Maybe the ultracaps need to be '' precharged '' or need to be charged at a lower current ( UcPure allows you to choose between 3 and 1,5A)
Anyhow there is something to be tackled by Ian . Probably if there is an issue it means that graduall;y there will be more people having trouble because the quality of the relais will go down if it stressed every time there will be a new charging '' cycle ''
Greetings, Eduard
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