Astonishingly the standard "Anlegemilch" used for thin metal foils from the goldsmith allows for covering mylar or textile tweeters, whizzer cones, small fullranges, polyprop cones.
It works as glue only with the thin foil.
I like working with the thin foil as it is faster to work with. You cut with a scissor at once the thin metal foils being stapled in a "book".
Thicker foils I have to cut by hand one by one. So takes longer time.
It works as glue only with the thin foil.
I like working with the thin foil as it is faster to work with. You cut with a scissor at once the thin metal foils being stapled in a "book".
Thicker foils I have to cut by hand one by one. So takes longer time.
I believe that, except for polypropylene cones. That's physically not possible. Wiki tells you about its properties, namely it can be joined by 2k epoxy or by hot glue or surface dissolvant. Anlegemilch does not work on PP unless you create another layer on top of it or dissolve the surface (which Anlegemilch doesn't do) or use some material which can fit in between the PP molecules.
What shall I say, I used it as a glue for thin foil and polyprop cone and it stays at place, after long time, too.
Maybe the adhesion still works for thin foil. Thick foil won't stick from the beginning.
Maybe the adhesion still works for thin foil. Thick foil won't stick from the beginning.
I agree with painters tape. I found that good quality painters tape will last for quite some time. It is not worth it to buy the cheap type.
Tape Will rip paper a bit so be vary og that.
Before I Will apply alu, I Will try color alu with permanent marker. Im not so Keep of the alu color.
Forgot to try give my input.
On purpose I put felt on dust cap pretty random. Gut feeling is best is 1,3 or 5. Generally I find felt on dust cap make some improvement.
As for the cone well I think one could just try. For example look at this expensive Accuton driver:
https://www.soundimports.eu/en/accuton-c173-6-095e.html
Not sure if they have damping on the backside. Open question is why for the price of that driver not mount dots on the backside…
Out of band damping. Im not fully sure yet. But. Aiming for at least -35 to -40 dB tracking of driver (following decided target curve) is good advice. Why should we accept sharp resonances when we can avoid them? Odd resonance is in my ears not natural at all. So even from LR12 at 2400 having some sharp resonances at 10 KHz is in the passband of what we can hear.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/how-to-make-a-whizzer-cone.398063/post-7798202
some fotos on the topic
some fotos on the topic
Another example of a quicker covering a loudspeaker paper cone with just one big piece of household aluminium foil.
Glue is here applied to the cone instead of on the tart like cut aluminium sheets I usually use.
The inverted dustcap of the bass driver makes the process of using a single sheet of foil easier.
Does anyone know the manufacturer of these drivers?
Anyone has TSP parameters of these "DJ" loudspeakers?
These drivers are spare parts for portable bluetooth loudspeakers
Glue is here applied to the cone instead of on the tart like cut aluminium sheets I usually use.
The inverted dustcap of the bass driver makes the process of using a single sheet of foil easier.
Does anyone know the manufacturer of these drivers?
Anyone has TSP parameters of these "DJ" loudspeakers?
These drivers are spare parts for portable bluetooth loudspeakers
Last edited:
Constrained Layer damping:
A hint I got here from the forum as a key to good sound from sandwich structure.
Now used silicone sealant for applying aluminium foil to the paper cone.
Finger snipping test shows enhanced damping due to the properties of the silicone.
Work goes faster than with the household glue I used usually.
A hint I got here from the forum as a key to good sound from sandwich structure.
Now used silicone sealant for applying aluminium foil to the paper cone.
Finger snipping test shows enhanced damping due to the properties of the silicone.
Work goes faster than with the household glue I used usually.
Finished a box again with great sound, sandwiched 30cm cone, removed dustcap added double magnet
low tuned reflex port 8cm diameter in 80 liter box.
Inside lined with egg crates
and 1cm foam on all internal sides
partially alu foil covered back side
first time with silicone as glue forming a more damping constrained layer. "CLD"
low tuned reflex port 8cm diameter in 80 liter box.
Inside lined with egg crates
and 1cm foam on all internal sides
partially alu foil covered back side
first time with silicone as glue forming a more damping constrained layer. "CLD"
Can this work with car speakers and making a homemade whizzer cone for it as well
@L.rivera92172
Mostly I treat paper cone drivers.
Polypropylen drivers often used in car hifi do not need aluminium foil treatment.
But you can make a whizzer cone if you have a driver you want to test this.
There is a thread on it I created "how to make a whizzer cone"
Mostly I treat paper cone drivers.
Polypropylen drivers often used in car hifi do not need aluminium foil treatment.
But you can make a whizzer cone if you have a driver you want to test this.
There is a thread on it I created "how to make a whizzer cone"
Could you be specific about exactly what material you are talking about when mentioning the application of ceramic coating? Brand, type etc....
Did a quick search. That Carakote stuff is bluddy expensive.
Furthermore, I wonder if it works at all on a non-metallic cone.
Furthermore, I wonder if it works at all on a non-metallic cone.
Could you make a video featuring the sound of your speakers?
Are you referring to Duntech Audio in Australia?
Last edited:
Okay, I can understand the purpose of the felt in front of the speaker >> https://www.aussieaudiomart.com/det...akers-sc5-audiophile-speakers/images/1927870/
And Duntech had been selling large speaker boxes for exorbitant prices for such a simple solution. Thank you for pointing at this solution!
But what is the reason for the ceramic coating?
Last edited:
is this coating really getting hard by only drying without heat?
Cerakote is a mixture of polymer and ceramics. Might work well if applied thin on both sides.
What does the listening test "say"?
An A/B test left / right speaker modded - unmodded is easy to do.
There are polymer adhesives which get really hard.
The clue of the aluminium foil is its not a hard metal. D A Barlow used in the Leak Sandwich cones:
Duraluminium
Thick polystyrol foam
Duraluminium
This is very stiff but gives hard resonances at the break up point.
So ceramic coating could be giving hard resonances if it becomes really stiff.
Cerakote is a mixture of polymer and ceramics. Might work well if applied thin on both sides.
What does the listening test "say"?
An A/B test left / right speaker modded - unmodded is easy to do.
There are polymer adhesives which get really hard.
The clue of the aluminium foil is its not a hard metal. D A Barlow used in the Leak Sandwich cones:
Duraluminium
Thick polystyrol foam
Duraluminium
This is very stiff but gives hard resonances at the break up point.
So ceramic coating could be giving hard resonances if it becomes really stiff.