I have the new style Z5500 no RCA. but i presume yours also uses the TDA7294, now from what ive seen the signals to the opamps and from there to the TDA7294 are not stopped or muted. its all done in the amplifier chip so which means pin 9 and 10 on the chip needs to be traced back to whatever controller there is on the board then we need to figuire what that controller chip expected from the POD to swich on the chips. easy enough, please post some pictures of your internals of the sub, the board at the input and the main circuitboard.
Thanks for the reply back. Been worrying with this for a while now. Got the speakers where they play but just can't get the amp to turn on. So i am guessing the bypass cables some are selling doesn't cut the amp on then. As from what you are saying you have to do it manually inside the woofer control box then. Here are the pictures you asked for, hopefully they are correct.
[URL=http://img845.imageshack.us/i/1031037.jpg/]
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
[URL=http://img845.imageshack.us/i/1031037.jpg/]
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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It doesn’t necessarily mean that you will have to do it inside the amp, its just that the sub is expecting a voltage on one of the wires that would have come from the POD. to figure what that is we need to look inside the amp we could possibly mimic that from outside. I’ve done that with mine but i wasn’t too clued up when i did it. if incorrectly done you run the risk of overvolting the op amp circuit board.
when you say you get the speakers to play what exactly do you mean? they won’t play if the amp isn’t turned on so I’m assuming not all channels are working?
The images you posted are quite small so i cannot see for myself but if you look in the first image there are 6 chips, one of them is larger than the others, I need to know what that chip's details are. The rest are op amps, each one of the audio channels pass through them.
Also for interest sake could you tell me what sound card you are using?
when you say you get the speakers to play what exactly do you mean? they won’t play if the amp isn’t turned on so I’m assuming not all channels are working?
The images you posted are quite small so i cannot see for myself but if you look in the first image there are 6 chips, one of them is larger than the others, I need to know what that chip's details are. The rest are op amps, each one of the audio channels pass through them.
Also for interest sake could you tell me what sound card you are using?
Boy, I haven't been here in a while and I'm surprised at how popular this thread has been. My sub is still working fine according to the original postings I made in this thread. But judging from some of the later posts here, some things need to be cleared up:
1. The bulk of the proper information about these mods is still in the first 6 pages or so. I recommend anyone who wants to recover the use of the their Z-5500 to read those pages very carefully as some of the later posts in those pages have corrections to previous posts as things got cleared up.
2. There are TWO different Z-5500's and they have different internal circuitry and slightly different pinout assignments: one type uses RCA jacks to the speakers, while the other uses spring-loaded connectors. Some of the later posts here make no distinction as to which model their solution worked for and that just creates problems for new people looking for information. PLEASE indicate what model you have when you post a solution or even a hookup diagram. From what I've been reading it seems that there are more of the spring-loaded types than the RCA types, so it's likely that most of the later hookup diagrams only work with the spring-loaded types (the guy on ebay selling a Z-5500 cable ($25 ?!!?) states that it only works on the spring-loaded model, so clearly that distinction is important when you're looking for solutions). BTW, mine was an RCA type.
3. There's quite a few posts looking for similar solutions to other speaker models: EACH model is different and no parallels can be assumed. However, the first six pages of this thread are a good example of the procedures to follow to figure out how your model is wired and how to proceed.
4. Some basic electronics knowledge and equipment is necessary for these mods. If you don't have a VOM or a soldering iron, then I suggest you find a friend that does and can help you. Otherwise, you'll have to do some learning!
I know most of the above is obvious, but from what I've been reading, it needed to be said.
Happy Modding!
1. The bulk of the proper information about these mods is still in the first 6 pages or so. I recommend anyone who wants to recover the use of the their Z-5500 to read those pages very carefully as some of the later posts in those pages have corrections to previous posts as things got cleared up.
2. There are TWO different Z-5500's and they have different internal circuitry and slightly different pinout assignments: one type uses RCA jacks to the speakers, while the other uses spring-loaded connectors. Some of the later posts here make no distinction as to which model their solution worked for and that just creates problems for new people looking for information. PLEASE indicate what model you have when you post a solution or even a hookup diagram. From what I've been reading it seems that there are more of the spring-loaded types than the RCA types, so it's likely that most of the later hookup diagrams only work with the spring-loaded types (the guy on ebay selling a Z-5500 cable ($25 ?!!?) states that it only works on the spring-loaded model, so clearly that distinction is important when you're looking for solutions). BTW, mine was an RCA type.
3. There's quite a few posts looking for similar solutions to other speaker models: EACH model is different and no parallels can be assumed. However, the first six pages of this thread are a good example of the procedures to follow to figure out how your model is wired and how to proceed.
4. Some basic electronics knowledge and equipment is necessary for these mods. If you don't have a VOM or a soldering iron, then I suggest you find a friend that does and can help you. Otherwise, you'll have to do some learning!
I know most of the above is obvious, but from what I've been reading, it needed to be said.
Happy Modding!
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Let me repost them as for some odd reason they aren't going from the thumbnail picture. A Asus xonar d2x is what i am using for a sound card. The pictures should now work correctly.
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/677/1031037.jpg
http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/7034/1031036.jpg
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/1582/1031035.jpg
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/677/1031037.jpg
http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/7034/1031036.jpg
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/1582/1031035.jpg
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Seems the edit button here goes away after a certain time. Here is the info that is on the 5 small chips.
R45801
48M
COHM
R45801
48M
COHM
sorry i didn't reply sooner i was robbed and had no internets for a while. Thanks for the re-post of the pictures. just to be sure are these pics of your system? because if they are you've got a blown voltage regulator in 1031037.jpg Look at the black 3 legged chip just left of the fat *** cap, its got a hole in it. The same thing happened to me and because of availability issues i had to build a little circuit to regulate that. its purpose is to supply the necessary voltage to the op amp board which might explain why you have issues.
Also just some questions:
Are you getting any sound and if so whats the volume and quality like?
Do you have a multimeter and do you have some electronics experience?
What is written on the other chip, the one with many legs? (i believe its the one responsible for controlling the amp on chip's mute's)
awesome sound card by the way.
Also just some questions:
Are you getting any sound and if so whats the volume and quality like?
Do you have a multimeter and do you have some electronics experience?
What is written on the other chip, the one with many legs? (i believe its the one responsible for controlling the amp on chip's mute's)
awesome sound card by the way.
Wow, sorry to hear about and no need to apologize, that is just sad there. And i'm truly sorry to hear that. Yes it fried my sound card on my R3E board after it did that. Not the D2x but the onboard realtek but i did a advanced rma on it as the board was giving issues to begin with.
Yes i have experience with a multimeter. And the numbers on the other chip is:
79MA13A or perhaps (16A, OR 18A)?
31 1C
And the one that is popped is:\
78MA13A or perhaps (16A or 18A)
32 2C
The other one that you wanted it:
TDA7294
6881U0336.
The blown chip happened when i couldn't get any help in here and i was testing and that happened. Thanks
Yes i have experience with a multimeter. And the numbers on the other chip is:
79MA13A or perhaps (16A, OR 18A)?
31 1C
And the one that is popped is:\
78MA13A or perhaps (16A or 18A)
32 2C
The other one that you wanted it:
TDA7294
6881U0336.
The blown chip happened when i couldn't get any help in here and i was testing and that happened. Thanks
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Hi,
I'm pretty sure the 78M13A is actually a 78M18A or more commonly known as a 7818 (dpak 252 package), the 78 means its a positive linear voltage regulator (79 is negative) and the 18 means it regulates to 18 volts.
if you measured voltages on the D-sub connector on the back of the sub box you would have found a +18v and a -18v. Connecting the 18v to earth while testing would have overloaded this regulator.
replacing it with something like this should be fine
NJM#7818DL1A-TE1 NJR Linear Regulators - Standard
ill see what i can figure out on the many legged chippie.
I'm pretty sure the 78M13A is actually a 78M18A or more commonly known as a 7818 (dpak 252 package), the 78 means its a positive linear voltage regulator (79 is negative) and the 18 means it regulates to 18 volts.
if you measured voltages on the D-sub connector on the back of the sub box you would have found a +18v and a -18v. Connecting the 18v to earth while testing would have overloaded this regulator.
replacing it with something like this should be fine
NJM#7818DL1A-TE1 NJR Linear Regulators - Standard
ill see what i can figure out on the many legged chippie.
Ok, i did alot of reading and the chip is an HCT139 wich is a demultiplexer, it is responsible for the mute and unmute of the amps and it is linked to pin 7 and 8 on the 15 pin D-sub connector. grounding those should unmute all the channels. so if you replace the burnt regulator and connect 7&8 on the connector to ground it should work fine. let me know how it goes.
I had 7 & 8 connected on the d-sub and the amp wouldn't cut on. And i was jumping wires to see why it wouldn't and that is how the chip finally blew out on me. But i will grab another chip and replace it and try it again though. Thanks.
Yes but i did add pin 6 in the mix also. So that could be the issue. I will get that replacement ordered and try it again. And remove the 6 pin off the hook up. Thanks.
ok, well i might be wrong but i believe it works like this: the amp chips expect more than 3.5V to unmute and switch standby off (Pins 9 and 10 on TDA7294) the HCT139 is responsible for supplying that. its outputs are 4,5,6,7,9,10,11,12 and its inputs are 1,2,3,13,14,15. tricky part is to follow the circuit from the dsub to the 16 pin HCT139 and see which of the inputs is used then use the chips function/truth table to get what the values should be. according to the guys on this forum the 7&8 on the dsub should be grounded but grounded to what? the same groud the chip is on? my op amp board is totally fried so i cant measure anything on it anymore. else i would have whipped out my multimeter a while ago. if you can give the measurements and where which connection goes im sure we can figuire out whats going on.
HCT139
HCT139 datasheet pdf datamanual - DUAL 2-LINE TO 4-LINE DECODERS/DEMULTIPLEXERS - Texas Instruments
TDA7294
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/SGSThomsonMicroelectronics/mXqwvzw.pdf
HCT139
HCT139 datasheet pdf datamanual - DUAL 2-LINE TO 4-LINE DECODERS/DEMULTIPLEXERS - Texas Instruments
TDA7294
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/SGSThomsonMicroelectronics/mXqwvzw.pdf
z5500 blown r22
hi, love the pics, i have a blown r22 next to the regulator. the wire in the photo is obstructing what it is.
Could anyone have a peek for me on theirs.
kindest regards
Steve
hi, love the pics, i have a blown r22 next to the regulator. the wire in the photo is obstructing what it is.
Could anyone have a peek for me on theirs.
kindest regards
Steve
hi, i have a newbi question on this one:
where is the circuit hidden that splits the signal up into subwoofer signal or higher frequencies, in the controlunit or is it with the amp in the subwooferbox?
and does anyone have a schematic so i can use a simple stereosignal?
(in stereo and it splits up the signal for (front left, rare left together) (front right, rare right together) and both on center and subwoofer? my controlunit was working fine till it just stops sending the audio to the amp, display and controls are on and react normaly. so either i can fix the control, or just use some sort of schematic to bridge it.
thanx and sorry for my bad english.
thank you ^^
where is the circuit hidden that splits the signal up into subwoofer signal or higher frequencies, in the controlunit or is it with the amp in the subwooferbox?
and does anyone have a schematic so i can use a simple stereosignal?
(in stereo and it splits up the signal for (front left, rare left together) (front right, rare right together) and both on center and subwoofer? my controlunit was working fine till it just stops sending the audio to the amp, display and controls are on and react normaly. so either i can fix the control, or just use some sort of schematic to bridge it.
thanx and sorry for my bad english.
thank you ^^
The control center pod on my older, out-of-warranty Z-5500 (spring-loaded) died recently. While I've replaced the entire package with a new one, the speakers are all good - including the subwoofer. A friend of mine is interested in using the speakers on his home stereo system (will need to check with him about the make/model and what output connections are available) if we can find a way to use the subwoofer. He has the spring type speaker connections so the other speakers should be covered. This is an older model with a PID R608 which doesn't seem to bode well for any of those eBay 'bypass cables' which require at least PID636.
I've read through a good portion of these 30 pages but still not sure or confident about what would be required to use the DB-15 end of the pod cable and hook in some other plug (mini-stereo or whatever). Now that I've registered in the forum here maybe some of the images can be seen. I can put together cables and solder; just not an electronic engineer. 🙂
Thanks,
Robert
I've read through a good portion of these 30 pages but still not sure or confident about what would be required to use the DB-15 end of the pod cable and hook in some other plug (mini-stereo or whatever). Now that I've registered in the forum here maybe some of the images can be seen. I can put together cables and solder; just not an electronic engineer. 🙂
Thanks,
Robert