Fortunately we can retrofit those amps with standard ones, just some blood sweat with the soldering iron and splicer cutters 😇
Did you miss that you lose some of the S60's electronic functions when you remove the factory amp?
Basically, you have to do a standalone audio system.
Basically, you have to do a standalone audio system.
i never said to remove your factory amps and replace with a standard
i hate non standard proprietary stuff
just offered help that I am being capable of.
If you like to replace burned subs very often
I respect it.
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Come on in, the water is fine.
More importantly - design, build, measure, and share. That way we all can learn.
That is the awesome part of the DIY community, we all help elevate each other's game.
My $0.02 after designing and building a few higher order boxes along the way?
Build a known, tested design first. Things have progressed a lot. Unlike when I started playing with tapped horns and other high-order enclosures, there are plenty of well-documented designs to choose from. Choose your design based on the drivers, pack space, and performance goals.
Typical 1/2-inch plywood is not for subwoofers. Years ago, I folded up a PA tapped horn design for a friend. He built it with 1/2-inch ply (and he was not a novice builder). The modest drivers he used (Dayton) tore the boxes apart after just a few gigs. The boxes were braced, glued with PL, and constructed properly. I am not sure if the ply failed, the glue failed, or both, I didn't get to do a post-mortem. I'll use 1/2-inch ply for 8-inch drivers and smaller, anything else gets 3/4-inch.
Measure twice then cut once. Higher-order subs are complicated, the layout and construction must be accurate.
Measure your results, and accurately measure both SPL and Impedance, otherwise you do not know what you have. There are cheap ways, there are more expensive ways, but ALL of them are cheaper than the drivers and amps you're gonna use. The mics and meters won't lie, but they may hurt your pride.
Pick one, buy some wood, and make some sawdust. Any sub is better than no subs, and if it is not what you wanted, you can always design and build something better.
the graph below is the graph of the SS15 vs the Stadium Horn
the one that hit lower is the Stadium horn
since i dont care above 100 but care below 40 i think that is my choice
both use the 3015LF
i know the stadium is 600+ liters but i will put casters on the back like other people have done
on the stadium horns
the below was not me
post# 67
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/jbells-set-of-four-tapped-horns.127908/page-4
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
i just noticed something while playing around with hornresp, it doesn't seem to do much for the response to make the cabinet at 75% width, the response even seems to flatten out a bit more within 1 db from 40 to 100 hz ?
is this right if i calculate it this way ? at 75% with, so it becomes 18 inch instead of 24
s1 becomes 450
s2 becomes 588
s3 becomes 2280
s4 becomes 2430
what you guys think of the little mod above
is this right if i calculate it this way ?
at 75% width so it becomes 18 inch instead of 24?
the one that hit lower is the Stadium horn
since i dont care above 100 but care below 40 i think that is my choice
both use the 3015LF
i know the stadium is 600+ liters but i will put casters on the back like other people have done
on the stadium horns
the below was not me
post# 67
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/jbells-set-of-four-tapped-horns.127908/page-4
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
i just noticed something while playing around with hornresp, it doesn't seem to do much for the response to make the cabinet at 75% width, the response even seems to flatten out a bit more within 1 db from 40 to 100 hz ?
is this right if i calculate it this way ? at 75% with, so it becomes 18 inch instead of 24
s1 becomes 450
s2 becomes 588
s3 becomes 2280
s4 becomes 2430
what you guys think of the little mod above
is this right if i calculate it this way ?
at 75% width so it becomes 18 inch instead of 24?
Attachments
It's a good option.
To improve accuracy in your model a little more, add value to Vtc and Atc, Hornresp already have a built-in tool to support you. Double click on Vtc and it will pop up.
Check with Brian if he has and maybe can share with you advanced data for the driver 3015LF, I mean, the Semi-Inductance parameter so you model will be as much complete as possible.
Adjust Eg to your amplifier max voltage output and check diaphragm displacement in this condition.
Your driver is light cone, so you need to check the pressure over it due to compression ratio in a Tapped Horn, and also because you are choosing to reproduce frequencies below Fs. To do that, follow the thread below post #13.251
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/hornresp.119854/page-663#post-7197796
To improve accuracy in your model a little more, add value to Vtc and Atc, Hornresp already have a built-in tool to support you. Double click on Vtc and it will pop up.
Check with Brian if he has and maybe can share with you advanced data for the driver 3015LF, I mean, the Semi-Inductance parameter so you model will be as much complete as possible.
Adjust Eg to your amplifier max voltage output and check diaphragm displacement in this condition.
Your driver is light cone, so you need to check the pressure over it due to compression ratio in a Tapped Horn, and also because you are choosing to reproduce frequencies below Fs. To do that, follow the thread below post #13.251
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/hornresp.119854/page-663#post-7197796
There's a minor issue with that sim - for the larger TH, the voltage drive is too high, as the displacement curve shows the driver exceeding its Xmax of 9mm within the usable passband. With the voltage adjusted so this doesn't happen, it may also show that the in-band output of the SS15 is noticeably high than that of the stadium horn.
Of course, there's nothing stopping you from building a TH that's sized between these two designs. If you plan to do so, you might want to include the 3015's semi-inductance parameters in the sim. I derived the ones below from the 3015's published impedance curve.
Re'=5.541
Leb=0.529
Le=5.099
Ke=0.094
Rss=39.298
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ok i added the semi inductance parameters however i am stuck
i pasted the 3015LF 8 ohm paramteres, Jbell used the 4 ohm ones, looks like they do not make the 4 ohm anymore, so i used what parts express have on their site.
thing is that i pasted the hornresp data from the jbell screen and i get an error on hornresp that S5 is 0 , on the original one S5 is cero, so something changed in the new hornresp.
I am frustrated as i cant coax out not even a copy paste design to simulate.
🙁
Attachments
ok never mind i changed the TH to ND model and it worked
looks like with the semi inductance paameters the 3015LF -8 at 40volts hits xmax
and the freq is not as smoth as the posted by the other user.
i used his 75% less volume parameters .
looks like with the semi inductance paameters the 3015LF -8 at 40volts hits xmax
and the freq is not as smoth as the posted by the other user.
i used his 75% less volume parameters .
The dip in the 100hz also increased in a meaningfull way.
You may need to think about tweaking and adjusting the design to your needs.
You may need to think about tweaking and adjusting the design to your needs.
i changed the thing from TH1 to TH but ohhh my the thing changed a lot!
i lowered the voltage to 35 so to get below 10 xmax
let me show where i am now.
i lowered the voltage to 35 so to get below 10 xmax
let me show where i am now.
The difference between TH1 and TH is where you place the driver, if I remember well.
In general, people use TH to model TH-SS style.
In general, people use TH to model TH-SS style.
Why 36V? you can easily go for 20% above X-max.
I my prefer to use the full potential of your amplifier voltage output, in this case to reduce the diaphragm displacement you need to the reduce a little the total Horn Path Length. You can adjust the efficiency adjusting S1 combined with flare ratio so it will increase box size.
You are going to low frequency for your driver, checking the diaphragm displacement the 0mm close to 32Hz indicate the tuned frequency of the box while your driver has 42~44Hz, it's risky project.
I my prefer to use the full potential of your amplifier voltage output, in this case to reduce the diaphragm displacement you need to the reduce a little the total Horn Path Length. You can adjust the efficiency adjusting S1 combined with flare ratio so it will increase box size.
You are going to low frequency for your driver, checking the diaphragm displacement the 0mm close to 32Hz indicate the tuned frequency of the box while your driver has 42~44Hz, it's risky project.
I'm playing with jbell stadium horn,learning hornresp along the way, i still get frustrated cause I don't know how to tweak for what I want.
I don't know how to make the hornresp data in to a real box.
I will see if I can still tweak that one or tweak the SS15 to hit lower and obviously will be bigger. I will try with another driver with this box.
I will post the graph as soon as I can make them.