What sort of impact if any does clock freaquancys have on the final product and is the frequency open to experiment or is it best to stick to a certain frequency?
After a bit more listening with Trichord clock I'm agreeing with Erik - more body to instruments, more 'live 'feeling. I think it will stay.
Erik van Voorst said:Okay no problem...I can always put a switch on a homemade breadboard attached to the motors...or a cleaned spare board....
I was realy interested in the easy way to determine its exact location by only attaching it to the motors.....
How about this Erik?
SANYO
Thanks but I have a good option...for the switch...
Peter thanks for your advice on the clock grounding...I think that loosing my lock ever so often with the Genesis Digital Lens
(once every couple of tracks) for a few seconds might be due to the fact that I picked up ground at my 8Volt regulator....any suggestions for that problem....I was not sure how exactly you mounted the tent...being a different clock ....
I will try your suggestions maybe it gives me a more stable mariage with the Lens (which can be quite finnecky)....
Good to hear that the Trichord is bringing something for more people...I hope the Kwak clock also delivers because it is always a gamble if it sounds really better........

Peter thanks for your advice on the clock grounding...I think that loosing my lock ever so often with the Genesis Digital Lens
(once every couple of tracks) for a few seconds might be due to the fact that I picked up ground at my 8Volt regulator....any suggestions for that problem....I was not sure how exactly you mounted the tent...being a different clock ....
I will try your suggestions maybe it gives me a more stable mariage with the Lens (which can be quite finnecky)....
Good to hear that the Trichord is bringing something for more people...I hope the Kwak clock also delivers because it is always a gamble if it sounds really better........



Id give the kwak clock a go though being a relative noob to this im not to confidant making breadboard rigs, not entirely sure i understand schismatics fully yet or at least translating them to pcb set up.
kanifee said:Id give the kwak clock a go though being a relative noob to this im not to confidant making breadboard rigs, not entirely sure i understand schismatics fully yet or at least translating them to pcb set up.
In the past Elso has sold clock kits c/w parts and PCB. I put one in my CD67SE about two years ago.
Regards,
Dan
Yeah , i got one from Elso-great value for money ,and with dedicated PSU-sounds great on marantz 63SE.
Iam currently using a Bursonaudio clock with PSU with Shigaclone 😀
Iam currently using a Bursonaudio clock with PSU with Shigaclone 😀
Back to pick your brains, im going to try and breadboard the psu for this cd transport, its pretty essential i think that if im going to progress anywhere in this hobby breadboarding is a must and ill be able to experiment a lot more, i also think it will reassure me i know the schismatics if i know i can breadboard them up.
IT may be spot on and i just need reasuring from a more experienced mind or i may be horribly wrong and are saving my self from certain doom but if i were to point tp point the psu is this correct?
Basic stuff i know but better safe than sorry!
IT may be spot on and i just need reasuring from a more experienced mind or i may be horribly wrong and are saving my self from certain doom but if i were to point tp point the psu is this correct?

Basic stuff i know but better safe than sorry!
kanifee -
Your picture shows +12V and-12V input, but if those wires are coming direct from the transformer, as they should be, it's actually 12-0-12V AC.
Your earth wire goes to the centre tap of the 12-0-12V transformer, right?
John
Your picture shows +12V and-12V input, but if those wires are coming direct from the transformer, as they should be, it's actually 12-0-12V AC.
Your earth wire goes to the centre tap of the 12-0-12V transformer, right?
John
i dont actually posses the trany yet, im buying that the week coming but yes that would go to the center tap, to be honest im unsure about trany types as well so im still looking into that the only trany ive used had dual secondarys and 4 wires coming from the trany, ac1,ac1 and ac2,ac2 though im making an educated gues that both lives go to 12v and the earth goes to the 0 line. im unsure about 3 wire tranys though i have seen people using some with 2 wires joined, any info on this? and does the pic look correct aslong as all wires go to correct points on the trany?
EDIT layout of the pic and the lines was more to do with keeping it less jumbled though i did realise why the origanel had the wires laid out 12 ground 12 instead of 12 12 ground like me
EDIT layout of the pic and the lines was more to do with keeping it less jumbled though i did realise why the origanel had the wires laid out 12 ground 12 instead of 12 12 ground like me
kanifee-
With dual secondaries you create a centre tapped winding by joining the end of the ac1 winding to the beginning of the ac2. Check with a meter before going any further.
John
With dual secondaries you create a centre tapped winding by joining the end of the ac1 winding to the beginning of the ac2. Check with a meter before going any further.
John
kanifee said:so that component orientation and layout and wiring looks ok?
Yes - though I can't quite see the orientation of the caps. Earth leads -ve of course.
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