Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

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Peter Daniel

Peter Daniel

Member
Joined 2002
audiosector.com
Paid Member
Here you are:
 

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woodturner-fran

Member
Joined 2006
AFAIK, 47labs made their own board, its just that when those enterprising members on the polish forum took apart a shigaraki, they found out that it used teh sanyo mech and was controlled by this chip that chip and the other chip.

However their real stroke of genius was in recognising that the JVC boombox used the same chips.

Fran
 
F

FJC Corpas

Member
Joined 2009
My shiga frecuently suddenly stop playing music though the CD is spinning. Usually the shiga return to music if I hit smoothly the aluminium frame of the transport (I can see how the laser go to the right place). I supposed it could be a lack of lubricant in the sledge of the mechanins and I put bicycle grease (shimano) to the rails but the problem persist... and is very annoying when you are immersed in the music and it happen :(

can anyone suggest what it might be........

Thanks,
Francisco
 
johnm

johnm

Member
Joined 2003
Owing to stupidity on my part, the LED on the JVC display is kaput! I applied power before remembering that I had yet to install the 10K limiting resistor - doh! :rolleyes:

Is it possible/easy to replace the LED on the display board - has anybody done this? If so do I need a special type of LED or will any old generic type do?

Thanks,

- John
 
L

leoparleur

Member
Joined 2007
johnm said:
Cool - thanks.

Did you replace the LCD (static electricity?) grounding wire/plastic afterwards or is that not needed?
Click to expand...

Johnm, you can also find more details to your last question starting from post #3508 (P.141). I got a few good replies from other fellow members. If I can, I'll try to keep it because part of my chassis is brushed stainless steel in direct contact with display and I wouldn't like to take any chance.
 
F

FJC Corpas

Member
Joined 2009
I tried a separate simple 5V power supply but results don´t like me. The supply was a LM317 regulator with good quality capacitors; perhaps with a super-regulator the things could be different… With this 5V supply the sound lost all the magic. It looks be more precise and controlled but lacking of interest and the superb soundstage was gone. I think if you use a regulator in this place it must be super (ALWSR or similar). I´ll try with a few different regulator types.

Regards the problem with the stopping mechanism, I haven´t find the solution yet… I think the major fault of these mechanisms is reliability.
 
F

FJC Corpas

Member
Joined 2009
I tried a separate simple 5V power supply but results don´t like me. The supply was a LM317 regulator with good quality capacitors; perhaps with a super-regulator the things could be different… With this 5V supply the sound lost all the magic. It looks be more precise and controlled but lacking of interest and the superb soundstage was gone. I think if you use a regulator in this place it must be super (ALWSR or similar). I´ll try with a few different regulator types.

Regards the problem with the stopping mechanism, I haven´t find the solution yet… I think the major fault of these mechanisms is reliability.
 
T

tube 300

Member
Joined 2005
I will also build the transport
and ordered the right boomboxes
Now its time for searching the black gates
but it is hard to get trough this topic
i find a pdf file in the first pages with the replacment caps
but is there also a list for the types that i need?
there are N ST FK NX what is the right caps that i need on the different places?
 
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