If you are trying to be as efficient with money as you can, the soft start is completely unnecessary - the CL-60 in the primary curcuit do the exact same thing.
Thanks @zman01!
Thanks @6L6. I didn't know that and already got the board.
The IEC socket on the rear has the fuse and switch. No switch to the front. At most I might want an LED to indicate that the amp is ON.
Made it 50 and 90 for the binding posts.
The MOSFETs are now equidistant from the edges. Yes, 31mm is from the bottom of the heatsink to the edge of the MOSFET.
Thanks @6L6. I didn't know that and already got the board.
The IEC socket on the rear has the fuse and switch. No switch to the front. At most I might want an LED to indicate that the amp is ON.
Made it 50 and 90 for the binding posts.
The MOSFETs are now equidistant from the edges. Yes, 31mm is from the bottom of the heatsink to the edge of the MOSFET.
Thanks @zman01! Yes, the boss himself has spoken!
But my sincere thanks to all of you who chimed in. I'm sure I'll have more questions during the assembly and will need all your help and guidance.
BTW the toroid is potted with a 8-10mm center hole. If I can just find that circular disc from the pics above I can drill a slightly larger hole into the base plate for the bolt.
But my sincere thanks to all of you who chimed in. I'm sure I'll have more questions during the assembly and will need all your help and guidance.
BTW the toroid is potted with a 8-10mm center hole. If I can just find that circular disc from the pics above I can drill a slightly larger hole into the base plate for the bolt.
atharva,
Can you confirm you are not using the store's F6 pcbs? I'm only asking because the hole spacings don't seem to match those of the store board.
Thanks,
Dennis
Can you confirm you are not using the store's F6 pcbs? I'm only asking because the hole spacings don't seem to match those of the store board.
Thanks,
Dennis
I have had both and preferred the F6, that said the F4 is fantastic as long as you have the right preamp to drive it. The F4 bumped my F6 out of my main system.
While the 4U/500 is an excellent chassis, the F6 can not really take advantage of its full power dissipation capability. A 3U/400 is actually sufficient for the standard F6 build. The power limitation is somewhat determined by the ability to funnel the heat through just two TO-247 packages per channel.
I'm having trouble with the search function on this new forum format, so I am just posting my question re: the F6 diyAudio boards here. Sorry if this matter has already been covered in this thread.
Regarding the orientation of the LED on these boards, it seems clear to me that on the "B" Channel board, the LED's anode should connect to the top hole in this vertically aligned pair of holes, since that hole is connected (through a current dropping resistor) to V+. Right?
On the "A" channel board, however, I'm not so sure. Here the two holes are horizontally aligned, and it looks like the left hole of the pair is connected directly to power Ground. So, is it the case that the LED anode here should be connected to that left hole? (On the theory that power Ground is 'more positive' than the V- supply?)
I realize I could just try connecting the LED one way, and if it doesn't light, reverse the wires! But I want to solder these connections before I install the boards in the amp. And the answer to my question may help me finally understand conventional versus electron current flow through a diode. I got a pretty lousy grade in high school electronics on this topic!
Thank you,
L. Wright,
Camas, WA USA
Regarding the orientation of the LED on these boards, it seems clear to me that on the "B" Channel board, the LED's anode should connect to the top hole in this vertically aligned pair of holes, since that hole is connected (through a current dropping resistor) to V+. Right?
On the "A" channel board, however, I'm not so sure. Here the two holes are horizontally aligned, and it looks like the left hole of the pair is connected directly to power Ground. So, is it the case that the LED anode here should be connected to that left hole? (On the theory that power Ground is 'more positive' than the V- supply?)
I realize I could just try connecting the LED one way, and if it doesn't light, reverse the wires! But I want to solder these connections before I install the boards in the amp. And the answer to my question may help me finally understand conventional versus electron current flow through a diode. I got a pretty lousy grade in high school electronics on this topic!
Thank you,
L. Wright,
Camas, WA USA
You are right @TungstenAudio we’re in the F6 thread here (that’s what I’ll try to build), the 4U/300 is probably the “ad hoc” case for the F6, I would possibly try to be looking the build in perspective and maybe add a B1+volume control only at first.. and later on let’s see what will happen - but the case would still be able to accommodate more.. sort of like buying a van instead of a station wagon, message to the family men out there.. (wish I had a van at this point 😀 ).
The thread about the 4U/500:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...who-is-interested.360807/page-66#post-6928019
HI,
I want to build an F6 and I am collecting Parts at the moment. I have from an old group buy for an other Project some STPS80H100TV Diodes.
https://docs.rs-online.com/a764/0900766b80dbfea0.pdf
I know they are a bit overdone, but are they good to use ? Because I have them already.
I want to build an F6 and I am collecting Parts at the moment. I have from an old group buy for an other Project some STPS80H100TV Diodes.
https://docs.rs-online.com/a764/0900766b80dbfea0.pdf
I know they are a bit overdone, but are they good to use ? Because I have them already.
Thank you strongbow60! Now I can finish up the assembly of my F6 and get on to the business of adjustments.
My first F6 build was in a 3RU/400 chassis. I found that once I got the bias up to 0.575V so that the amp sounded good, the heat sinks were over 60 deg C on the outside of the sink, between the fins at the transistor locations. I ended up bolting some cheap 150x60x25mm heat sinks with a layer of arctic silver thermal compound to the the existing sinks, inside under the top cover. This dropped the temp to about 57 deg C.