That might have sounded a little harsh, sorry.
Just coming from my past experience of seeing crimped AC connections get hot and fail.
I have repaired quite a few of them.
Anyway, to each there own, just the way I do it I guess.
Sorry if my comment offended anyone
Just coming from my past experience of seeing crimped AC connections get hot and fail.
I have repaired quite a few of them.
Anyway, to each there own, just the way I do it I guess.
Sorry if my comment offended anyone
Don't think anyone took offense. I always solder as well as crimp, just habit.
Anymore progress on your build?
Anymore progress on your build?
Well, assembly wise,no.
Mentally, thinking of how I am going route wires and connect things, yes.
Which leads me to this question.
Does the ground coming from the IEC to star ground need to be a twisted pair?
Anyway, my plan is to have it completely wired up and ready to get dialed in this weekend.
Got to put together a light bulb tester too, damn, these AMP builds are as arduous as a speaker build
Mentally, thinking of how I am going route wires and connect things, yes.
Which leads me to this question.
Does the ground coming from the IEC to star ground need to be a twisted pair?
Anyway, my plan is to have it completely wired up and ready to get dialed in this weekend.
Got to put together a light bulb tester too, damn, these AMP builds are as arduous as a speaker build
No. It's a pair in my guides because green with yellow trace is the most common (worldwide) color code for safety earth. I didn't have any on hand so I made it as best I could... 🙂
Got all of the power in/out wired.
However I have 26.0 and 26.1 volts coming from the PSU.
Do I need to add another resistor?
However I have 26.0 and 26.1 volts coming from the PSU.
Do I need to add another resistor?
You are good to go. Unloaded the unregulated psu always higher voltage and will sag under load..dB
Still pretty new... Am I missing something? What's the best way to order my parts for an F5 board? I downloaded the v2 BOM (because v3 BOM doesn't exist?), compared it to the diagram on the F5 turbo PDF. Confirmed that the v2 and v3 parts are basically the same.. Spend an hour searching for each component by ohms and watts on digikey because part numbers are not listed on the v2 BOM. I am fine doing this, I just want to make sure there isn't some easier way or already put together BOM link or something.
Thank you!
Thank you!
F5 parts Kit – diyAudio Store
and LSK170 / LSJ74 matched quad from here - Linear Systems Matched JFETs – diyAudio Store
You'll need an LED and a LED resistor, but that's everything for the F5 PCBs.
It seems like I'm saving at least $25 by putting together my own digikey order, unless I'm missing something.
Okay. I may be incorrect. The picture of the F5 parts kit seems to indicate most/all of the resisters are vishay dale resisters which are more expensive/better than what I was initially selecting on my own digikey order. So perhaps there isn't as big a savings in doing it myself.
The store prices are very fair.
I had to source out the hardware kit and it ended up costing me more than what they offered.
Besides, you dont have to spend a butt load of time on a computer
I had to source out the hardware kit and it ended up costing me more than what they offered.
Besides, you dont have to spend a butt load of time on a computer
Argh. I may have just made a mistake in my order. I got 18,000uF caps for my power supply for an F5 build. It seems like everyone else is getting 22,000uF.. Should I re-order 22,000uF caps?
This is what I got: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/LGY1V183MELC40/493-8645-ND/
This is what I got: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/LGY1V183MELC40/493-8645-ND/
The caps you ordered are perfect. Any value over 10,000uF will work just fine as the design was intended.