Speaker protect and delay turn on
Yes, I have been using this all the time. It works very good.
Thanks to Greg for his help some time back.
I too use two non polar caps to acheive the non polar effect.
Cheers.......Raj.
Yes, I have been using this all the time. It works very good.
Thanks to Greg for his help some time back.
I too use two non polar caps to acheive the non polar effect.
Cheers.......Raj.
Other amp now fixed and making some find music!! Much thanks to Carlos, Rudi, and others. After all the photos and double check form some helpful folks all seem ok and the problems was with some dead/ bad parts. Make sure I buy genuine 546/556 from now on.
This is quite a learning experience, only negative is I lifted a pad from one of the 546 I was replacing while trying to clear the openings. You can't really see it after but I've slightly tarninshed the beauty of the boards so to speak. Oh well, at least it is sounding good!!
This is quite a learning experience, only negative is I lifted a pad from one of the 546 I was replacing while trying to clear the openings. You can't really see it after but I've slightly tarninshed the beauty of the boards so to speak. Oh well, at least it is sounding good!!
Glad to hear this, Wendell.
It is hard to believe that your distributor sold you a "dead-on-arrival" BC 546.
I have never heared about this.
I wish you much pleasure listening to the DX Blame.
Your MJL4xxx will produce a very nice sound, I am sure.
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
It is hard to believe that your distributor sold you a "dead-on-arrival" BC 546.
I have never heared about this.
I wish you much pleasure listening to the DX Blame.
Your MJL4xxx will produce a very nice sound, I am sure.
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
Not really distributor, but ebay. It's a good thing I have some genuine parts from DK/Mouser too.
Hi wendell c...
Congratulations!!! Glad to hear you got you amps working. I'm eagerly awaiting my boards from Rudi's GB and I'm trying to learn as much as possible to make my own build smooth.
I have a question for you (and anyone else for that matter):
Did you wind your chokes (inductors) yourself or did you buy them and why are they covered with heat shrink???
Thanks and again, congratulations!!!
Congratulations!!! Glad to hear you got you amps working. I'm eagerly awaiting my boards from Rudi's GB and I'm trying to learn as much as possible to make my own build smooth.
I have a question for you (and anyone else for that matter):
Did you wind your chokes (inductors) yourself or did you buy them and why are they covered with heat shrink???
Thanks and again, congratulations!!!
The coil is 8 turns and 15mm diameter using 1mm magnet wire. Heat shrink is used for holding the coil windings together.
I am waiting for the DX Blame PCBs as well, Sandbasser!
I do not possess them myself and am still using my prototype boards:
But I can tell you: even this one plays like a divine, like magic!
I laid aside a pair of METAL's beautiful red and gold PCBs of this group-buy for myself!
But I have to wait like you:
The PCBs will be shipped on September, 20th.
In the meantime I am dreaming again of ELNA SilmicII caps, Mills resistors, Silver Micas, ..., big, genuine SANKENs, MJL0302/MJL0281, ...,
preparing a test-rig to easily change output-transistors, ...
DIY is beautiful, especially when you will meet the DX Blame.
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
I do not possess them myself and am still using my prototype boards:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
But I can tell you: even this one plays like a divine, like magic!
I laid aside a pair of METAL's beautiful red and gold PCBs of this group-buy for myself!
But I have to wait like you:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The PCBs will be shipped on September, 20th.
In the meantime I am dreaming again of ELNA SilmicII caps, Mills resistors, Silver Micas, ..., big, genuine SANKENs, MJL0302/MJL0281, ...,
preparing a test-rig to easily change output-transistors, ...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
DIY is beautiful, especially when you will meet the DX Blame.
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
I am glad to see your enthusiasm dear Rudi...you are helping a lot promoting,
means selling the "image" of our amplifier.
I am going back home, finally my electronic things once again will be around me..and will re start to work hard.
Less 15 kilos in 20 days...it is fine..the face is not fat anymore...but the bely remains big!
regards,
Carlos
means selling the "image" of our amplifier.
I am going back home, finally my electronic things once again will be around me..and will re start to work hard.
Less 15 kilos in 20 days...it is fine..the face is not fat anymore...but the bely remains big!
regards,
Carlos
Attachments
Thanks Sandbasser, you will be very happy with these amps. It is very musical.
Yes, Metal has answered the questions you asked. I used 18g THHN wire from Lowes/Home Depot for the inductor. It was like 20 cents a foot or less, it was labeled for telephone or alarm purposes.
Yes, Metal has answered the questions you asked. I used 18g THHN wire from Lowes/Home Depot for the inductor. It was like 20 cents a foot or less, it was labeled for telephone or alarm purposes.
Loudspeaker protection circuit question
I am going to ask a silly question but I am a little bit confused regarding the loudspeaker protection board. I have already constructed the circuit that Carlos mentioned on post #251. Could someone explain to me what I have to connect AC, DC and SW1 connector.
Thank you for your help.
I am going to ask a silly question but I am a little bit confused regarding the loudspeaker protection board. I have already constructed the circuit that Carlos mentioned on post #251. Could someone explain to me what I have to connect AC, DC and SW1 connector.
Thank you for your help.
Nice pics there, Rudi. Are you planning on comparing the Toshiba output transistors as well?
Nikolay
Nikolay
Suicida, soon we gonna have Rudi showing you his heatsink choice
About the speaker protector, the man is Mitchell...soon he will come to help you.
I am back home.
Last videos..... about the Dx post surgery final version, take a look fast, as Youtube may delete the song by Mark Knopfler because of rigths:
YouTube - Dx post surgery pictures, final version
YouTube - A lot of wind in Dx ex wife's place!
regards,
Carlos
About the speaker protector, the man is Mitchell...soon he will come to help you.
I am back home.
Last videos..... about the Dx post surgery final version, take a look fast, as Youtube may delete the song by Mark Knopfler because of rigths:
YouTube - Dx post surgery pictures, final version
YouTube - A lot of wind in Dx ex wife's place!
regards,
Carlos
Hello suicida,
It's simple: you are gonna connect the secondaries of your transformer to the AC points on the circuit. Don't connect the center tap, only the two ACs from your transformer.
The DC point on the circuit is connected to the output from your power supply. That is, youre gonna connect the +V and GND from your power supply to the DC ponints on the circuit.
The SW is a thermal switch, and it's optional. If you decide to use one, you shuold use a Normally Open contacts unit (NO type). I think a 70ºC NO thermal switch is fine here. The thermal switch is bolted down to the main heatsink, and it will close contacts once the heatsink reaches the rated temperature of the switch. Once this happens, the circuit will disconnect the loudspeakers, and the heatsink will cool down, because the amp will be unloaded.
If you have any doubts, feel free to ask.
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