Hi,
Board up and running with bench power supplies, connected with unbalanced in and out. Could hear no noise before I added signal.
Will take time to get feeling for the tone controls it seems.
Thanks Carl
/örjan
anybody else got theirs running? i just got the parts and have not even started yet...
anybody else got theirs running? i just got the parts and have not even started yet...
Mine is up and running but not finished yet because I want to wait for the new i/of board before I build a case for it.
Me too
I am also waiting for the new boards. I hope you will show your case design and layout when you get it completed.... for the less creative amongst us
I am also waiting for the new boards. I hope you will show your case design and layout when you get it completed.... for the less creative amongst us
George,
i will post some pics when i get it done. For now i am awaiting a DIYAudio Store 1u Galaxy 330X230 W/10mm front panel, nothing Fancy. I am NOT very Creative. My brother has offered to assist me in making a Wood version later this summer. He has all the Wood working tools & skills! So if that works out i will post that as well.
Rick
Tone Controls
Tone controls are one way of getting the sound that you want. However, there is still a discussion on why (if at all) vinyl sounds better the digital sound. The forum at http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/anal...me-prefer-vinyl-douglas-self.html#post4588023 is discussing this.
The guy that kicked off the discussion is Doug Self.. and he appears to be heading towards designing a post-processor attachment to a preamp to modify the sound. The gadgets... still to be shown are a Vinyliser and a Devinyliser. Once you have completed this preamp these gadgets might be worth looking at.
Tone controls are one way of getting the sound that you want. However, there is still a discussion on why (if at all) vinyl sounds better the digital sound. The forum at http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/anal...me-prefer-vinyl-douglas-self.html#post4588023 is discussing this.
The guy that kicked off the discussion is Doug Self.. and he appears to be heading towards designing a post-processor attachment to a preamp to modify the sound. The gadgets... still to be shown are a Vinyliser and a Devinyliser. Once you have completed this preamp these gadgets might be worth looking at.
* New IO Board Coming *
PLEASE NOTE: As of noon US Pacific time Saturday (the 23rd) all kits that have been paid for have shipped Priority Mail.
Those in the Continental US should receive their items by mid week and those outside the US within 10 days.
I will begin posting detailed PICs, BOM, drawings and assembly instructions later today.
PLEASE NOTE: As of noon US Pacific time Saturday (the 23rd) all kits that have been paid for have shipped Priority Mail.
Those in the Continental US should receive their items by mid week and those outside the US within 10 days.
I will begin posting detailed PICs, BOM, drawings and assembly instructions later today.
Enhaced IO for Doug Self Preamplifier
PICs of the new Enhanced IO board for the Doug Self preamplifier.
There are 2 balanced and 3 unbalanced inputs. Outputs are stereo balanced and unbalanced.
Here is the front panel selector swicth. Note that it is on its own PCB and connects to the IO board by ribbon cable.
The 2 cables used in this project are both standard IDC 20 pin computer cables.
PICs of the new Enhanced IO board for the Doug Self preamplifier.
There are 2 balanced and 3 unbalanced inputs. Outputs are stereo balanced and unbalanced.
Here is the front panel selector swicth. Note that it is on its own PCB and connects to the IO board by ribbon cable.
The 2 cables used in this project are both standard IDC 20 pin computer cables.
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Yea, use the same relays that you put on the previous IO board. In fact all of the parts required for this new board are the same ones called out for the previous board, just more of them. I will be posting a BOM later tonight.
Here is what you will be receiving, 2 PCBs, 2 RCA quad blocks and a rotary switch. The rotary switch has a splined shaft with the same dimensions as the main board pots.
Important Build Detail
** IMPORTANT ASSEMBLY DETAIL - BE SURE TO READ THIS BEFORE WARMING YOUR SOLDER PENCIL **
It is important that you assemble the front panel switch exactly as shown below or it won't work!
#1) Note that the switch mounts on the side of the PCB that does NOT have silkscreen.
#2) Note that the silkscreen is on the back side of the PCB.
#3) Note that the ribbon cable attaches to the back side of the PCB and that the IDC connector must oriented to make the ribbon cable trail behind the switch as shown below.
OTHER NOTES: The switch can service 11 stops but for this project you want to limit the stops to 5.
You do that by adjust the washer with the tab that fits into the body of the switch. The easiest way to do this is to just to move washer/ tab from hole stop to hole stop and counting the clicks when rotating the switch. When it clicks 5 times you've got it!
** IMPORTANT ASSEMBLY DETAIL - BE SURE TO READ THIS BEFORE WARMING YOUR SOLDER PENCIL **
It is important that you assemble the front panel switch exactly as shown below or it won't work!
#1) Note that the switch mounts on the side of the PCB that does NOT have silkscreen.
#2) Note that the silkscreen is on the back side of the PCB.
#3) Note that the ribbon cable attaches to the back side of the PCB and that the IDC connector must oriented to make the ribbon cable trail behind the switch as shown below.
OTHER NOTES: The switch can service 11 stops but for this project you want to limit the stops to 5.
You do that by adjust the washer with the tab that fits into the body of the switch. The easiest way to do this is to just to move washer/ tab from hole stop to hole stop and counting the clicks when rotating the switch. When it clicks 5 times you've got it!
The relays used in this project are very good but lack an internal diode parallel with the coil. You need to add one 1N4148 diode to every relay coil. The easiest way do that is to solder it across the relay mounting pins extending thru the back side of the PCB as shown below.
Here is a close up. It is important to position the black band of each diode to the left.
Here is a close up. It is important to position the black band of each diode to the left.
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