Yes, you should be fine with using your parts as in my schematic (except that you'll have two separate transformers). The power supply will work without snubbers, but they are useful to suppress the ringing related to the switching of the rectifier diodes.
Neno70:
I built my PSU with the DIYA store PCB. I ended up using 4x 10,000uF for each channel (80,000uF total).
AndrewT recommended modeling the PSU with a free software called PSUD. I tried this out after, and found out that I could get my PSU to be approximately 98-99% as efficient with much less capacitance. I don't remember the exact numbers, but I posted some of the results in one of the Badger threads. Might be worth trying out if your on a budget!
Starts out around here:
diyAudio Power Supply Circuit Board v3 illustrated build guide
I built my PSU with the DIYA store PCB. I ended up using 4x 10,000uF for each channel (80,000uF total).
AndrewT recommended modeling the PSU with a free software called PSUD. I tried this out after, and found out that I could get my PSU to be approximately 98-99% as efficient with much less capacitance. I don't remember the exact numbers, but I posted some of the results in one of the Badger threads. Might be worth trying out if your on a budget!
Starts out around here:
diyAudio Power Supply Circuit Board v3 illustrated build guide
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Neno70,
You have 4x30 secondaries on each transformer. Are you going to use them as 4x30 or 2x60?
With 4x30V AC you will get around 4x43v DC, you know that.
You are correct in using RC snubbers on the diode bridges, instead of jut C snubbers, as most people use. The ringness damping should work better if you have the resistor. But I could never find out a way to calculate the values.
But you may find it interesting reading this last chapter on power supplies in TNT Audio.
Solid State Power Amplifier Supply Part 3
The writer suggests adding a snubber/zobel to the PS capacitors: 1 Ohm/17W in series with 680nF.
You have 4x30 secondaries on each transformer. Are you going to use them as 4x30 or 2x60?
With 4x30V AC you will get around 4x43v DC, you know that.
You are correct in using RC snubbers on the diode bridges, instead of jut C snubbers, as most people use. The ringness damping should work better if you have the resistor. But I could never find out a way to calculate the values.
But you may find it interesting reading this last chapter on power supplies in TNT Audio.
Solid State Power Amplifier Supply Part 3
The writer suggests adding a snubber/zobel to the PS capacitors: 1 Ohm/17W in series with 680nF.
your scheme can also be valid in case that the rectification uses Fast Recovery Rectifiers diodes ?🙂
You can use a Quasimodo to pick the right snubber capacitor for your transformer.
I am not sure if there's no way to use the Quasi to tune the RC combination for the caps too. Is it possible? Has anybody tried it?
By definition, to pick those parts empirically you will need a very transparent system: source, amplifier, speakers. What changes IS very subtle, not too evident.
I am not sure if there's no way to use the Quasi to tune the RC combination for the caps too. Is it possible? Has anybody tried it?
By definition, to pick those parts empirically you will need a very transparent system: source, amplifier, speakers. What changes IS very subtle, not too evident.
Can someone tell me which is the latest HB's LTSpice simulation made on this thread?
Has someone run it using the Tian Probe method?
On the one I made I got a low gain margin, around 6dB or so. According to Tian's method gain margin should be greater than 12dB or 15dB for stability.
As there are a lot of Honeybadgers being built all the time, I wonder if I am misinformed on stability simulation.
Has someone run it using the Tian Probe method?
On the one I made I got a low gain margin, around 6dB or so. According to Tian's method gain margin should be greater than 12dB or 15dB for stability.
As there are a lot of Honeybadgers being built all the time, I wonder if I am misinformed on stability simulation.
No, you don't pick the snubber parts values by ear; "empirical" is not the same as "by ear". The Quasimodo is the best tool. I didn't have one, but I have a scope. So I used that to see what the ringing looks like on the rectifiers.
I did a few HB simulations with different transistors and results notably depended on the choice of transistors or rather the accuracy of their models. Just take OnSemi's njl0xxx series and njl1302/3281 and there are even greater differences between these and mjl1302/3281 and their Cordell versions. Which models are correct???
cheers,
cheers,
Received a notification by Mouser today that ON Semi has announced end of life for the BAV21 diode.
Best Regards!
Best Regards!
honey badger power supply question
can we run the honey badger off a 25-0-25 trafo ?
whats the minimum that we can run it off?
can we run the honey badger off a 25-0-25 trafo ?
whats the minimum that we can run it off?
What about using 1N459A instead? Lower Vr (100nA on the BAV21 vs. 25nA on the 1N459A) what should be better for this use (lower distorsion). Unfortunately it got a slower recovery time. How would this affect on circuit?
overvoltage at the output
Hello, I'am building a honey badger and have soldered all components on the PCBs from the diyaudio store, he is almost finished. When I turn it on the two leds light up, the test resistors who replace the fuses stay cold but I measure -59V at the output, almost the negative rail voltage. I have this problem on both boards. I have checked the insulators for the transistors, jumpers (c-z for D3) Does the problem come from the fact that I'am using components from the v2.0 on a v2.4 board?
Thank you for your help and sorry for my mistakes, I'am still learning english.
Hello, I'am building a honey badger and have soldered all components on the PCBs from the diyaudio store, he is almost finished. When I turn it on the two leds light up, the test resistors who replace the fuses stay cold but I measure -59V at the output, almost the negative rail voltage. I have this problem on both boards. I have checked the insulators for the transistors, jumpers (c-z for D3) Does the problem come from the fact that I'am using components from the v2.0 on a v2.4 board?
Thank you for your help and sorry for my mistakes, I'am still learning english.