diyAB Amp The "Honey Badger" build thread

At 3 pair or more , " nickel and diming" does not matter.

I have a 3 pair mt-200 and a 5 pair to-3p running now.
4R and 8R loudspeakers - I can go into overload on my source.
NO strain on the OPS at all.

Most OEM's use 2 pair , a badger with 3 pair (even to-3p) won't
even break a sweat with normal musical material.

I will say that I have shorted a 3 pair MT-200 out at full output
and only blown the 10A fuses. OPS survived. (I was drunk).

OS
 
At 3 pair or more , " nickel and diming" does not matter.

I have a 3 pair mt-200 and a 5 pair to-3p running now.
4R and 8R loudspeakers - I can go into overload on my source.
NO strain on the OPS at all.

Most OEM's use 2 pair , a badger with 3 pair (even to-3p) won't
even break a sweat with normal musical material.

I will say that I have shorted a 3 pair MT-200 out at full output
and only blown the 10A fuses. OPS survived.
(I was drunk).

OS

That's a great review for sure! I don't want to find out what happens to the MJL's under those test conditions :) , although I suspect I know the answer already :flame: .

What are you driving with the 5-pair OPS, and which Transistor did you use? Is that the "wolverine" I've been hearing about? I put that one on my "to research list" for a future project.
 
Yes , this Badger topology is the preferred test input stage for my Slewmasters.
The main advantage with these new circuits is the EF3. The badger is still
king (almost).

The only other runner up to this topology is the classic leach amp running
a Hawksford (and a EF3 output stage).

If there ever is a V2.5 badger , EF3 is the way to a cooler - cleaner amp.

What I meant with the MT-200's is that they have a 100ms 7A rating @ 60V.
3 pair will withstand the 100ms opening time of a (@20A) 10A fuse easily.
There is also a time/current curve as the fuse becomes molten.

I had to check why this was so. DON'T try this with your typical 264/TO3-P!

With some of the over-current solutions being developed on the forum -
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/264313-how-build-21-st-century-protection-board.html

And the later refinements -
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...-century-protection-board-25.html#post4659507

Wow ! A full set of protection boards - (Rail , DC , inrush , temp).
Way to go ... I still use 10A fuses as a safeguard. My early version is 19
months old now - perfection.

OS
 
I had to check why this was so. DON'T try this with your typical 264/TO3-P!

With some of the over-current solutions being developed on the forum -...

...Wow ! A full set of protection boards - (Rail , DC , inrush , temp).
Way to go ... I still use 10A fuses as a safeguard. My early version is 19
months old now - perfection.

OS

Don't worry, I'm far too cheap to risk my OPS :p (it was 120 bucks CAN for the dozen :eek: )

I have been looking into the 21s century design, and briefly discussed it with another member. It's pretty outstanding stuff! Once I finish my badger, the 21st design looks like a great investment in protection.


This is all a relatively new hobby to me, so I have to take it one step at a time!
 
I'm not the king of Bending resistor leads, that's for sure... :D

Finally had a little bit of time to start the first channel. All fixed resistors (- the heavyweights) .
 

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Thanks! That will tidy up the bigger pitched resistors on the second channel for sure. The smaller ones are too tight. I was using a dental pick at first to round the bends, but it wasn't very effective so I just eye-balled the rest... the 0W6 resistors are a little big for the holes, but I knew that when I picked them :)
 
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The leads are just a little bit too short to mount vertical. Does it look too close to c17 (R48)?

Edit: this doesn't work either. The leads are too short unless both bent underneath the body. But the body is too big in that case.
 

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