Yes, 😀 . I was expecting them to be approx 1/2 the size that they are. That's mainly due to inexperience though.
I can' wait to build this!. Its going to be hard to remain unbiased when listening to it though 🙂
1) Hi, and thanks for everything you've done with this project!
2) Once my badger is up and running, I will be building a pair of speakers. Next on the list will be a sub, and a sub amp; where I can put that "bigger is better" mentality to good use 🙂 .
I have measured as best as I can the interface area of MT200 and To264 and the MT200 is ~ 15% to 25% (depending on manufacturer) larger area than the To264
At 3 pair or more , " nickel and diming" does not matter.
I have a 3 pair mt-200 and a 5 pair to-3p running now.
4R and 8R loudspeakers - I can go into overload on my source.
NO strain on the OPS at all.
Most OEM's use 2 pair , a badger with 3 pair (even to-3p) won't
even break a sweat with normal musical material.
I will say that I have shorted a 3 pair MT-200 out at full output
and only blown the 10A fuses. OPS survived. (I was drunk).
OS
I have a 3 pair mt-200 and a 5 pair to-3p running now.
4R and 8R loudspeakers - I can go into overload on my source.
NO strain on the OPS at all.
Most OEM's use 2 pair , a badger with 3 pair (even to-3p) won't
even break a sweat with normal musical material.
I will say that I have shorted a 3 pair MT-200 out at full output
and only blown the 10A fuses. OPS survived. (I was drunk).
OS
That's a great review for sure! I don't want to find out what happens to the MJL's under those test conditions 🙂 , although I suspect I know the answer already
.What are you driving with the 5-pair OPS, and which Transistor did you use? Is that the "wolverine" I've been hearing about? I put that one on my "to research list" for a future project.
Yes , this Badger topology is the preferred test input stage for my Slewmasters.
The main advantage with these new circuits is the EF3. The badger is still
king (almost).
The only other runner up to this topology is the classic leach amp running
a Hawksford (and a EF3 output stage).
If there ever is a V2.5 badger , EF3 is the way to a cooler - cleaner amp.
What I meant with the MT-200's is that they have a 100ms 7A rating @ 60V.
3 pair will withstand the 100ms opening time of a (@20A) 10A fuse easily.
There is also a time/current curve as the fuse becomes molten.
I had to check why this was so. DON'T try this with your typical 264/TO3-P!
With some of the over-current solutions being developed on the forum -
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/264313-how-build-21-st-century-protection-board.html
And the later refinements -
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...-century-protection-board-25.html#post4659507
Wow ! A full set of protection boards - (Rail , DC , inrush , temp).
Way to go ... I still use 10A fuses as a safeguard. My early version is 19
months old now - perfection.
OS
The main advantage with these new circuits is the EF3. The badger is still
king (almost).
The only other runner up to this topology is the classic leach amp running
a Hawksford (and a EF3 output stage).
If there ever is a V2.5 badger , EF3 is the way to a cooler - cleaner amp.
What I meant with the MT-200's is that they have a 100ms 7A rating @ 60V.
3 pair will withstand the 100ms opening time of a (@20A) 10A fuse easily.
There is also a time/current curve as the fuse becomes molten.
I had to check why this was so. DON'T try this with your typical 264/TO3-P!
With some of the over-current solutions being developed on the forum -
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/264313-how-build-21-st-century-protection-board.html
And the later refinements -
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...-century-protection-board-25.html#post4659507
Wow ! A full set of protection boards - (Rail , DC , inrush , temp).
Way to go ... I still use 10A fuses as a safeguard. My early version is 19
months old now - perfection.
OS
Don't worry, I'm far too cheap to risk my OPS 😛 (it was 120 bucks CAN for the dozen 😱 )
I have been looking into the 21s century design, and briefly discussed it with another member. It's pretty outstanding stuff! Once I finish my badger, the 21st design looks like a great investment in protection.
This is all a relatively new hobby to me, so I have to take it one step at a time!
Thanks! That will tidy up the bigger pitched resistors on the second channel for sure. The smaller ones are too tight. I was using a dental pick at first to round the bends, but it wasn't very effective so I just eye-balled the rest... the 0W6 resistors are a little big for the holes, but I knew that when I picked them 🙂
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Thanks,I like to use round nose pliers.
I'll look around locally to see what I can find . All my good tools are up north at work.
The leads are just a little bit too short to mount vertical. Does it look too close to c17 (R48)?
Edit: this doesn't work either. The leads are too short unless both bent underneath the body. But the body is too big in that case.
Edit: this doesn't work either. The leads are too short unless both bent underneath the body. But the body is too big in that case.
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