Thanks. It will be a little more fine-tuned once the house renovations gets underway, and I have a better understanding of my needs.
That's what it looked like behind me when I took the picture, lol. S--- everywhere!
My daughter has not seen her desk tabletop since she got it 6 months ago.
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Mess? No mess. Just stuff, cool manly stuff of electronic origin. Her mom keeps me from commanding anyone 😉
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Anybody have experience or opinions on ebay mica insulators? The to264 are impossible to source.
Just ordered a pile of parts from Mouser for both Badger PCB's! Just in time to go back to work, LOL.
As a random thought; I think I will be the first to use MJL4281/MJL4302 for the output devices 😎 .
The poor neighborhood won't see it coming until it's too late! On the bright side, it will be easy to find the party 😀
The poor neighborhood won't see it coming until it's too late! On the bright side, it will be easy to find the party 😀
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Trying to find PSU info and it's escaping my gaze...
What's the suggested value of the R in the PSU's CRC filter? Assuming 63V rails from 45V AC transformer windings.
What's the suggested value of the R in the PSU's CRC filter? Assuming 63V rails from 45V AC transformer windings.
dropping 100mVdc to 500mVdc is probably a good target.
The quiescent current and the acceptable volts drop will deterimine the required resistance value.
The quiescent current and the acceptable volts drop will deterimine the required resistance value.
Interesting! That makes sense.
So what's the 'cookie cutter' value for said resistors with 63V rails?
So what's the 'cookie cutter' value for said resistors with 63V rails?
If the quiescent current is 1mA, then a R value of 100r to 500r gets to the target value of 100mVdrop to 500mVdrop.
If the quiescent current is 10A, then an R value of 0r1 to 0r5 gets to the target value of 100mVdrop to 500mVdrop.
Painting by numbers is a no go area.
If the quiescent current is 10A, then an R value of 0r1 to 0r5 gets to the target value of 100mVdrop to 500mVdrop.
Painting by numbers is a no go area.
Posted this in the other thread wereas it was supposed to be here.
sad news... made my chassis top last night. While putting it in place I accidentaly dropped the temp sensor inside!!! I think it shorted between one of the fuses on right channel and ground, blew the fuse with a hump, and right midwoofers went byebyebye. Tested again with new fuse and everything and lef speaker was fine and the amplifier to.
Was planning on using the speaker elements in the new speakerset.
Now this morning I was laying in bed, kids got up backbraking early turned on tv and sound, what they usually do. My wife just got down and we hear pow pow pow from the left speaker and its a gonner. You got to hate the smell of burned speaker elements.
Smoke and glowing from the amp cabinet and r23 on left channel is burned. WTF was that about? I cannot find much information about r23 but the amp has been going for days without any trouble
Of course I found something stupid under the pcb. A small leg from a resistor probably had "glued" itself between the "c" leg in the c-z default and d-bc option (witch currently holds no diode) but certainly shorted something.
https://cloud.midtbo.pw/index.php/s/u7YydK8Yh5kUVjS Here we can clearly see it is out of smoke so I have to refill.
https://cloud.midtbo.pw/index.php/s/bkuhmTNROXRbyu3 And a small shorting in the middle of the photo
sad news... made my chassis top last night. While putting it in place I accidentaly dropped the temp sensor inside!!! I think it shorted between one of the fuses on right channel and ground, blew the fuse with a hump, and right midwoofers went byebyebye. Tested again with new fuse and everything and lef speaker was fine and the amplifier to.
Was planning on using the speaker elements in the new speakerset.
Now this morning I was laying in bed, kids got up backbraking early turned on tv and sound, what they usually do. My wife just got down and we hear pow pow pow from the left speaker and its a gonner. You got to hate the smell of burned speaker elements.
Smoke and glowing from the amp cabinet and r23 on left channel is burned. WTF was that about? I cannot find much information about r23 but the amp has been going for days without any trouble
Of course I found something stupid under the pcb. A small leg from a resistor probably had "glued" itself between the "c" leg in the c-z default and d-bc option (witch currently holds no diode) but certainly shorted something.
https://cloud.midtbo.pw/index.php/s/u7YydK8Yh5kUVjS Here we can clearly see it is out of smoke so I have to refill.
https://cloud.midtbo.pw/index.php/s/bkuhmTNROXRbyu3 And a small shorting in the middle of the photo
New builder here. I'm putting together 3 channels to use for home theater LCR. I've already started assembling the amp boards using parts from Mouser. I used OSTripper's DIYBADGER1 shared project. Admittedly, my knowledge of electronics is probably lacking for this project, but my goal is still a functioning amp on the first try. I've been going through this build thread making notes, but I'm unsure on a few of the components.
MPSA18 for Q1/Q2 appears to be obsolete. I ordered SS9014CBU instead...will I need to change anything or just solder them in place and run it?
There's two 2.2K resistors, a 1/4W carbon film and an 1/8W metal film. They are for R14 and R28, but I don't know which should be which(or why)
C4 is 50-100V in BOM, I suspect this is similar situation to the 1/8W resistors, but should I be worried about using a 35V cap here?
Several capacitors labeled film or polystyrene in the BOM appear to have been swapped with X7R Ceramic?
C18 and C19 are excluded?
Other than those few things, the build has been going well so far.
P.S. for anyone using the shared project cart, it is short one 220R resistor
MPSA18 for Q1/Q2 appears to be obsolete. I ordered SS9014CBU instead...will I need to change anything or just solder them in place and run it?
There's two 2.2K resistors, a 1/4W carbon film and an 1/8W metal film. They are for R14 and R28, but I don't know which should be which(or why)
C4 is 50-100V in BOM, I suspect this is similar situation to the 1/8W resistors, but should I be worried about using a 35V cap here?
Several capacitors labeled film or polystyrene in the BOM appear to have been swapped with X7R Ceramic?
C18 and C19 are excluded?
Other than those few things, the build has been going well so far.
P.S. for anyone using the shared project cart, it is short one 220R resistor
Well, the wife told me that my mouser order arrived today! Looks like the build will start in a couple of weeks when I get home from work!
Also, I have been researching insulators for the MJL4281/MJL4302 output devices... I've seen some members recommend using Kapton tape in some instances where insulators were hard to come by. Anybody have thoughts or experience on this?
The wiring on our aircraft use kapton insulation. I am not a fan of it for that application. It flexes and breaks, creating a path to airframe/ other circuits. I imagine this would be less problematic for a fixed transistor. That being said, the signal level is much higher on the transistors than it is on the 28 vdc 18ga wires I'm dealing with.
Thanks in advance 🙂
Also, I have been researching insulators for the MJL4281/MJL4302 output devices... I've seen some members recommend using Kapton tape in some instances where insulators were hard to come by. Anybody have thoughts or experience on this?
The wiring on our aircraft use kapton insulation. I am not a fan of it for that application. It flexes and breaks, creating a path to airframe/ other circuits. I imagine this would be less problematic for a fixed transistor. That being said, the signal level is much higher on the transistors than it is on the 28 vdc 18ga wires I'm dealing with.
Thanks in advance 🙂
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My HB has kapton tape insulating my outputs. While I can easily see your problems with it as a wrap, it's unable to move when used as an isolator. Just be extra careful to clean any metal chips and debris since the film is thin.
Thanks Bob! I was very happy to see this solution. I was having a hard time finding the proper Mica pads.
I use it for everything I build. Never had a problem unless I get a metal filing there.
30mm 100ft Kapton Tape High Temperature Resistant PCB BGA Wave Soldering J | eBay
30mm 100ft Kapton Tape High Temperature Resistant PCB BGA Wave Soldering J | eBay