Not sure why "following my idea" - the only filter I can be credited for, and that worked fine on several Class D amps, was ages ago a single LC stage (2nd order) with 1,5uH et 3000uF on a breadboard), but that's not relevant anyway and important is that you are now happy!
Enjoy
Claude
Enjoy
Claude
Perhaps filtering some (very) HF noise (as low reactance at very HF, in the MHz range)... common practice, but all IMHO, so I will let someone more educated reply 🙂
If that was a question, the answer is probably not. This is an SMPS power supply filter capacitor, not a bypass cap for a big electrolytic output coupling cap.
So if you already have 470nF or 680nF, go ahead and use those.
So if you already have 470nF or 680nF, go ahead and use those.
Either works. The ones used in the VFET amps are 63V. Smaller size fits in more places on the board.
Didn't see the question mark, but if it was indeed a question then I am with Tungsten's replies.
That cap is more or less generic / common practice and you are unlikely to hear any difference from altering it slightly.
You want though to respect the adequate voltage rating FOR DC VOLTAGES, that is equal or higher.
Good luck
Claude
That cap is more or less generic / common practice and you are unlikely to hear any difference from altering it slightly.
You want though to respect the adequate voltage rating FOR DC VOLTAGES, that is equal or higher.
Good luck
Claude
A bit late to party, but.. No 43 is happy and singing.
Took me some time to stabilise life, and over the weekend I finished this little amp. Preparations were done 6-7 months ago (soldering, case preparation), and I guess I did what some/most did with similar results: positioning FE pcb's to minimise signal travel, a little bit of polishing heatsink where L bracket seats (surface was not ideal, at least for someone like me), I had to deburr (countersink?) holes on L bracket because I cold feel under figer some small portrusion. I placed everywhere elastic shims under bolts, and aligning case was a bit of challenge, when tightened propperly case "distorded" a bit, I tried to take it apart (well taking this apart after soldering everyting is job for surgeon), and ending with placing 1mm shim between left heatsink and front panel, which made amp stable. Took me lot of time to make wire arrangement decent looking, altough, I am far from other on this forum.
Ah yes, matching feet from old kenwood receiver, which are less "silverish" than stock ones.
LED is Amber, whish is kinda my favourite color lately 🙂. Of course, it started without problems, adjusted voltage to 20V, holding nice and stable.
Sound - still breaking in, but did not disappoint, nice, rounded, very pleasent to listen for several hours. Of course there are limitations in terms of power with more demanding speakers (which pushes me to logical step - Tokin's 🙂 ). Temperature is just fine, evenly distributed on heatsink.
Amp is really quiet, very good channel separation, very involving sound, so happy about it.
It is never late to say how good job is team diyaudio.com doing, and what a value is Mr Pass to us, earthlings, beeing part of this is privilege.
T.
Took me some time to stabilise life, and over the weekend I finished this little amp. Preparations were done 6-7 months ago (soldering, case preparation), and I guess I did what some/most did with similar results: positioning FE pcb's to minimise signal travel, a little bit of polishing heatsink where L bracket seats (surface was not ideal, at least for someone like me), I had to deburr (countersink?) holes on L bracket because I cold feel under figer some small portrusion. I placed everywhere elastic shims under bolts, and aligning case was a bit of challenge, when tightened propperly case "distorded" a bit, I tried to take it apart (well taking this apart after soldering everyting is job for surgeon), and ending with placing 1mm shim between left heatsink and front panel, which made amp stable. Took me lot of time to make wire arrangement decent looking, altough, I am far from other on this forum.
Ah yes, matching feet from old kenwood receiver, which are less "silverish" than stock ones.
LED is Amber, whish is kinda my favourite color lately 🙂. Of course, it started without problems, adjusted voltage to 20V, holding nice and stable.
Sound - still breaking in, but did not disappoint, nice, rounded, very pleasent to listen for several hours. Of course there are limitations in terms of power with more demanding speakers (which pushes me to logical step - Tokin's 🙂 ). Temperature is just fine, evenly distributed on heatsink.
Amp is really quiet, very good channel separation, very involving sound, so happy about it.
It is never late to say how good job is team diyaudio.com doing, and what a value is Mr Pass to us, earthlings, beeing part of this is privilege.
T.
Attachments
Looks very good ! 🙂
If after break-in the sound might not be totally to taste, you can try the Alternative Front Ends. You can alter the sound of the amp with them significantly. I am a fan of the Marauder boards. I find my V-FET N channel amp with the Marauder front-end clean, clear, and intense.
Regards, Claas
If after break-in the sound might not be totally to taste, you can try the Alternative Front Ends. You can alter the sound of the amp with them significantly. I am a fan of the Marauder boards. I find my V-FET N channel amp with the Marauder front-end clean, clear, and intense.
Regards, Claas
+1 What Claas said.
Dreadnought FE cards sound amazing as well. I have ‘personalized’ mine considerably. 😉
Dreadnought FE cards sound amazing as well. I have ‘personalized’ mine considerably. 😉
Thank you (both) for advices. Any change will have to wait some time, I have to evaluate current situation, make observations, and think where I want to go (if, only if I am not satisfied). I will look for suggestions here, based on others opinion, I will for sure narrow my choice.
At the moment, amp is conected directly to CD player (old faithfull sony xb 720) because it has (to some degree) variable output level. I still have to find/build decent peamp (have some project in drawer), now I will use Linn LK1, but, it looks like output level of preamp will not be able to drive amp to full power.
It (amp) really shines. I will tonight try with different music genres, and another source.
I guess I could order some FE pcb's, just in case 😁.
Good times 😁
At the moment, amp is conected directly to CD player (old faithfull sony xb 720) because it has (to some degree) variable output level. I still have to find/build decent peamp (have some project in drawer), now I will use Linn LK1, but, it looks like output level of preamp will not be able to drive amp to full power.
It (amp) really shines. I will tonight try with different music genres, and another source.
I guess I could order some FE pcb's, just in case 😁.
Good times 😁