Good to see a fellow mancunian here.
Hmmm 2U is small. This days I'm building 2U 300mm mosfet amp, but at sine wave 1Khz 100W 8ohm is Hot. Too hot. And idle current is 60mA per rail. Wolverine is 300mA. I have a 7W A class in 2U 300 with 700mA bias at 35V per chanel. The heatsink is very hot. This is around 50W dissipation per case. But that is all. With full volume is not dissipating a lot more. With wolverine you will be little less than 100W. At idle.
I would not use 2U. Especially 300mm.
The two boards are Dc protection with delay on speaker terminals and the other one is softstart for transformes with auxilary voltage of 12V for led, power switch relay and dc protect board.
I measured my receiver last night and that is 3U. So I can get away with that but 4U or even 5U is a no no. In fact I have an old Mosfet that I built many years ago. I forget what size that was. I may dismantle that and buy 2 large heatsink for it. My memory is that bad I forget if I used 2 500VA I'm thinking!!!!!!!!!! Nope, my memory escapes me. I'm gonna have to dig it out. Would be a shame to dismantle it, as that Mosfet was a brilliant amp.
Cheers..... Tony
Cheers..... Tony
Hi Tony,
You aren't using that amp, so it isn't that good. Just saying. 3U may work depending.
You aren't using that amp, so it isn't that good. Just saying. 3U may work depending.
The reason I stopped using that was because of family things and just lost interest, so I put it all away even my turntable. Really nothing to do if it wasn't that good. May be you could have a go at building it and you may hear how good it sounded. Though it was a long time ago and my ears were a lot better. It had great attack, slam, bottom end and quite open, but that was in conjunction with my preamp too. I would have thought a 3U case would work and mount the outputs midway on the heatsink.
Have I bitten off more than I can chew may be?
Cheers.... Tony
Have I bitten off more than I can chew may be?
Cheers.... Tony
Tony, I built a Wolverine in a Modushop Dissipante 3U/400mm chassis. The amplifier have been used with 4 Ohm/87 dB sensitivity speakers for around two months now. This far there have not been any problems whatsoever. However, I normally do not play particularly loud. I have not measured the temperature of the heatsinks. If I remember, I will borrow a pyrometer at work and do a proper temperature measurement.
Hi Tony,
I get it. Family life. Luckily my family loved music and the improvements I came up with.
No, I think if you stretch yourself a little you learn more and become more confident. The Wolverine is an excellent amplifier, better than most commercial products. I highly recommend you build it.
I get it. Family life. Luckily my family loved music and the improvements I came up with.
No, I think if you stretch yourself a little you learn more and become more confident. The Wolverine is an excellent amplifier, better than most commercial products. I highly recommend you build it.
Just the bolt and fender washer. I've read about the issues with lock or split washers. Thanks.
I have a set of boards ready, so I will be building it at some point. I bought the EF3-3 set and will be taking my time with it. I'm already stretching myself as I have poor memory retention. I get there in the end. LOL
I'm going to buy the parts get a case, might not be from modu shop, would be nice, but may be a little too expensive. Will have to see. I don't have any test equipment, so will be using a couple of meters. I'll get some output protection and a soft start circuit. I remember when I used 500VA toroidal that the lights would dim momentarily. LOL.
Tony...
I'm going to buy the parts get a case, might not be from modu shop, would be nice, but may be a little too expensive. Will have to see. I don't have any test equipment, so will be using a couple of meters. I'll get some output protection and a soft start circuit. I remember when I used 500VA toroidal that the lights would dim momentarily. LOL.
Tony...
If you get the chance, buy an analogue oscilloscope. Even 10 MHz is fine. These will be used, so cheap. You want dual trace minimum.
You actually do need an oscilloscope.
You actually do need an oscilloscope.
I have been looking at scopes. But it's just the cost. I don't have much space, so a digital lcd type would suit. Been looking at rigol.
Cheers..... Tony
Cheers..... Tony
I powered up with the output trans in place. Using the Rigol set at 30V and 1A I get R109 @ 465.7mV and R11 @ 4.89DCV.
But the D12 and D3 LEDs don't light up. They did when I tested w/o output transistors. R17 and J103 are removed.
I retreated.
Is there an issue or do I need to dial up R109?
Thanks,
Chip
But the D12 and D3 LEDs don't light up. They did when I tested w/o output transistors. R17 and J103 are removed.
I retreated.
Is there an issue or do I need to dial up R109?
Thanks,
Chip
Hi Gianluca,
I am building a Wolverine EF3-4 (V4.2) with the following (2 x 8) output devices:
| Output | onsemi | MJL4281 | MJL4302 | TO-264 |
Can the Wolverine TO-264 drill pattern be drilled into the heatsinks?
Or is there a better option right now?
Regards,
Wouter
No issue. They wont light, because you removed (and please confirm) the temporary parallel resistor on R17
Hi anatech.
Yeah I should get one. If I come across problems, then what?
It's just that I never used a scope on the amps I built in my Younger years, whether built on pcb or good old vero board. I just used a couple of multimeters. But I will look into the older ones.
10Mhz seems a bit low, I only remember the 20Mhz or 40Mhz ones and I may as well get a 4 chanel scope. I'm just thinking ahead if I need to repair any digital stuff too.
Any recommendations?
I've just had a look on ebay and the old scopes aren't that cheap anymore. Some people are selling them at unreasonable prices. You just don't know how they've been treated and what the inputs have been subjected too. I'll keep looking but I'd rather buy all the bits and assemble them first.
Cheers..... Tony
Yeah I should get one. If I come across problems, then what?
It's just that I never used a scope on the amps I built in my Younger years, whether built on pcb or good old vero board. I just used a couple of multimeters. But I will look into the older ones.
10Mhz seems a bit low, I only remember the 20Mhz or 40Mhz ones and I may as well get a 4 chanel scope. I'm just thinking ahead if I need to repair any digital stuff too.
Any recommendations?
I've just had a look on ebay and the old scopes aren't that cheap anymore. Some people are selling them at unreasonable prices. You just don't know how they've been treated and what the inputs have been subjected too. I'll keep looking but I'd rather buy all the bits and assemble them first.
Cheers..... Tony
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Hi Tony,
I mentioned 10 MHz only because you could work with that. A 100 MHz dual trace Philips would be excellent. Quad trace = more money, but sure.
Expensive scopes don't always work out. I hate my Tek 2465B, fat trace, really slow at calculations. A PM 3070 kills it except for bandwidth, but if you can't see detail what good is bandwidth??
I mentioned 10 MHz only because you could work with that. A 100 MHz dual trace Philips would be excellent. Quad trace = more money, but sure.
Expensive scopes don't always work out. I hate my Tek 2465B, fat trace, really slow at calculations. A PM 3070 kills it except for bandwidth, but if you can't see detail what good is bandwidth??