Congratulations .Ambient temperature 31C° heatsinks temperature after 7 hours are 51C°.
Thank you at the team for the great amp.
Hi my friend with 31C ambient temp he he he .... also here in Greece we have same temp .Do you measured the bias current when you have 51C on heatsinks?
Hi voxxonline,
Are you using a decent solder sucker? Not the little bulb, not the little ones. I'm talking the larger ones with recoil when you hit the button.
You can find them for $10 ~ 15 Canadian. Ignore, those are junk and break quickly. The half decent ones go for about $30 Canadian. Edysen is the brand you want.
Are you using a decent solder sucker? Not the little bulb, not the little ones. I'm talking the larger ones with recoil when you hit the button.
You can find them for $10 ~ 15 Canadian. Ignore, those are junk and break quickly. The half decent ones go for about $30 Canadian. Edysen is the brand you want.
Nice, those buffers are new to me, will look in to them as they look promising.I'm using analog active 6dB and 12dB filters and Kuartlotron buffers with stepped attenuators
I use one i bought years ago.Hi voxxonline,
Are you using a decent solder sucker? Not the little bulb, not the little ones. I'm talking about the larger ones with recoil when you hit the button.
You can find them for $10 ~ 15 Canadian. Ignore, those are junk and break quickly. The half decent ones go for about $30 Canadian. Edysen is the brand you want.
I am actually looking into heated ones now. Obviously I am not going for hakko its just too expensive but some other alternatives are possible. Either heated suction, recoil ones or with continuous suction via air pump. I'll pause this troubleshooting until I get something better
No! I have a heated one. They are a pain, you have to clean them later and they require maintenance. Mine's been in a box for decades.
Just use a large solder sucker (good brand) and solder wick to back it up. If you can fine Edysen, get one. It is about 13" long. The small ones are useless.
Just use a large solder sucker (good brand) and solder wick to back it up. If you can fine Edysen, get one. It is about 13" long. The small ones are useless.
Hi Stuart,
Thanks for the link. Solomon was the OEM for some stations, and they make excellent products. I may look in to that one.
How do you find cleaning it? Mine is ancient, you don't want to know how much it cost me. I hate it.
Thanks for the link. Solomon was the OEM for some stations, and they make excellent products. I may look in to that one.
How do you find cleaning it? Mine is ancient, you don't want to know how much it cost me. I hate it.
Hey guys! i have been fallowing the Wolverine amp closely. i really really really like it. but failed to find any group buys. or Gerber files for that matter. are there any currently available, or do i have to wait?
I can't open link due to my location on AliExpress. What's the name of the product, then I kan look it up myself🙂This is what I'm using. Love it.
Solder sucker
Thanks
Search for this: Pro'sKit SS-331H ESD LCD Digital Electric Desoldering Pump
I've been through the forum and haven't seen any photos for 2nd Buy EF-3 completed boards - both sides. I find photos helpful to answer questions. If they exist could someone point me to them. If not, I'd really appreciate someone posting them for those who are still on the journey.
Thanks,
Chip
Thanks,
Chip
Mine are 2nd GB.I've been through the forum and haven't seen any photos for 2nd Buy EF-3 completed boards
Check out my Album if you like.
I'm nearly finished my build.
How do you find cleaning it?
Cleaning is really easy. I normally do it at the beginning of a project. Doesn't take long. The gun comes apart quickly and easily.
There are quite a few positive reviews on YouTube on this particular solder sucker. It has great vacuum that's for sure.
Links
Link 1
Link 2
Congratulations Giorgio, your build looks amazing. Well done on getting I all up and running. I'm glad that you're happy with it. Hopefully now that all the hard work is done you can enjoy many hours of enjoyable music.My EF3-3 its up and running in a multiamped system.
No hum and beautifull sound.
Ambient temperature 31C° heatsinks temperature after 7 hours are 51C°.
Thank you at the team for the great amp.
giorgio
Thanks Stuart but the link is unavailable in my locationThis is what I'm using. Love it.
Solder sucker
Search for this: Pro'sKit SS-331H ESD LCD Digital Electric Desoldering PumpThanks Stuart but the link is unavailable in my location
You may also want to check the links from post #4275 there are some great reviews on YouTube
I completed my Wolverines this weekend. I am pretty happy with how they turned out. Over the years, I've incorporated a lot of my design learnings into the amp chassis. The initial design started in January. A lot of time was spent on waiting for parts from suppliers local and around the globe, but I intentionally took my time on this one.
There are two monoblocks. Power is from MicroAudio SMPSs; it's my first SMPS build. Each Monoblock also has an off-the-shelf smart controller rated at 4000W that controls remote power on/off and high/low voltage and current shut-off. This is tied to my home automation, so my audio setup can be started and shut off in a specific sequence.
The chassis is made of 2mm steel and weighs a ton. Considering the look I was going for, I had to go with this.
The enclosure separates the power supply and amplifier sections. It is made of 6mm of steel and has a considerable air gap. The power supply and associated wiring are almost completely confined to one side, and the ventilation on both sides is exceptional.
This was during testing and initial wiring clean-up. The vertical mounting offers excellent airflow. The heating and PSU are mounted on individual brackets. The PSU has enough space to accommodate a toroid, but I have to say that these MicroAudio SMPSs are sounding great.
I designed the enclosure for access, so at any point, it is pretty "easy" (a bit backbreaking with 2mm steel!) to take out an individual bracket to work on.
I've installed some horizontal supports. These assist with the rigidity of the enclosure and, on the amplifier side, are supposed to create airflow channels.
The lid was a design challenge; metal bending has limitations, so I had to design it in two parts. I also had to create a special clamping system to keep the spacing between the two parts equidistant so that they don't scrape the chassis when you put them on.
These are the final amps in place.
Monoblock A
Monoblock B
Sound is subjective, but I have to say that these are pretty incredible.
I just wanted to thank the design team and everyone who offered advice. It's been a pretty tough year, and I don't think anyone talks about how projects like this can give you something immersive and ultimately positive to focus on—special thanks to Stuart for some sideline advice and encouragement.
There are two monoblocks. Power is from MicroAudio SMPSs; it's my first SMPS build. Each Monoblock also has an off-the-shelf smart controller rated at 4000W that controls remote power on/off and high/low voltage and current shut-off. This is tied to my home automation, so my audio setup can be started and shut off in a specific sequence.
The chassis is made of 2mm steel and weighs a ton. Considering the look I was going for, I had to go with this.
The enclosure separates the power supply and amplifier sections. It is made of 6mm of steel and has a considerable air gap. The power supply and associated wiring are almost completely confined to one side, and the ventilation on both sides is exceptional.
This was during testing and initial wiring clean-up. The vertical mounting offers excellent airflow. The heating and PSU are mounted on individual brackets. The PSU has enough space to accommodate a toroid, but I have to say that these MicroAudio SMPSs are sounding great.
I designed the enclosure for access, so at any point, it is pretty "easy" (a bit backbreaking with 2mm steel!) to take out an individual bracket to work on.
I've installed some horizontal supports. These assist with the rigidity of the enclosure and, on the amplifier side, are supposed to create airflow channels.
The lid was a design challenge; metal bending has limitations, so I had to design it in two parts. I also had to create a special clamping system to keep the spacing between the two parts equidistant so that they don't scrape the chassis when you put them on.
These are the final amps in place.
Monoblock A
Monoblock B
Sound is subjective, but I have to say that these are pretty incredible.
I just wanted to thank the design team and everyone who offered advice. It's been a pretty tough year, and I don't think anyone talks about how projects like this can give you something immersive and ultimately positive to focus on—special thanks to Stuart for some sideline advice and encouragement.
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