You sure about that? See the 5U deluxe...
Granted... the UMS differs between chassis... so the U in UMS isn't quite U. 🙂
The TO264 offset and that there's a wolverine drill pattern separate from the ums at the modshop would be useful information to have more prominently displayed somewhere. I just ordered the UMS heatsinks and I guess I will have to drill my own holes anyway and I wasted $60.
My thoughts on the offset for 8 output transistor is - why not offset the other 6 predrilled holes in the UMS pattern?
You still have to make 2+3 M3 for support in the outer ends of the circuit board and drivers.
You still have to make 2+3 M3 for support in the outer ends of the circuit board and drivers.
Oh yes, I see now. I selected from sheet 2 though so I didn't notice. I will just return and buy the smaller size, no biggie. Maybe add a note to sheet two though 🙂 Also, on page 23 of the build guide Q9 is listed twice and Q10 is omitted. D3 and D12 would be much easier to install if they were put before Q7 and Q8.
This might give a good visual on the holes. Large holes are existing UMS holes.
I went ahead and finished testing with the heatsinks I had. @44mv bias the center heatsink gets to about 40c and the outer 32c. I let it sit for a few hours.
0 dc offset. Next I temporaly hooked up a pair of old Fisher studio monitors and tested it with music. The heatsinks stayed cool for the music test but I did not have it very loud, Loud enough for the wife to say something though. Here is a short video of it.
I gota say, this thing give's my Kenwood Basic M2 a run for it's money. Very Nice amp guys...WOW.
0 dc offset. Next I temporaly hooked up a pair of old Fisher studio monitors and tested it with music. The heatsinks stayed cool for the music test but I did not have it very loud, Loud enough for the wife to say something though. Here is a short video of it.
I gota say, this thing give's my Kenwood Basic M2 a run for it's money. Very Nice amp guys...WOW.
Wolverine is likely cleaner than the kenwood (IC switched class G). Class G has a second set of X-over "glitches" at the LV/HV point.
Hi Guy's,
Your Dropbox folder has a pdf and dxf file of the heatsink holes.
The build guide also has them all clearly labelled and dimensioned.
I'll attach the pdf here as well.
Music from White Town, Women In Technology, Theme For An Early Evening American Sitcom
Yes, it's interesting what they did with the switching module, BTW are very hard to get replacements.
When recorded with a mobile phone they all sound the same, 6 transistor Hongkong pocket radio from 1965.
Glad you figured it out! And as you might see, if one were rough as f***, you could make the TO264 outputs work with the TO3 UMS holes by over exerting the transistor leads, but it wouldn't be pretty, and wouldn't pass muster with the design team 😆, and you risk snapping the leads. Definitely not recommended.
Drilling and tapping holes can be quite difficult for some or they don't have/want to invest in the tools to do so. If someone wanted to build a wolverine and completely avoid drilling + tapping holes, I would recommend they buy a EF3-3 set of boards, a UMS compatible chassis minimum 300mm deep (or even 400mm, allowing for future expansion), a set of completed EF3-3 auxiliary heatsinks from @fireanimal, use strictly TO3 package output transistors, and position Q103 on top of one of the outputs. No drilling/tapping required, only need to figure out what length screws and standoffs to buy.
That or order the wolverine heatsinks from modushop for the EF3-4 drilled tapped and bolt on.
https://modushop.biz/site/index.php...duct_id=811&search=wolverine&description=true
https://modushop.biz/site/index.php...duct_id=811&search=wolverine&description=true
