DIY Class A/B Amp The "Wolverine" build thread

Check the BOM it states the TO264 (NOT FOR UMS).
I think BOM sheet 2 could have something like this added;

1695247985454.png
 
Agreed. I just bought transistors that work with the ums, so I got most of it taken care of. I still need to tap holes for the other 3 transistors. Does anyone have a link to buy threaded inserts or a part number? All the ones that come up when I search look a lot different than the ones that came from modshop.
 
Also, I'm using Toshiba's 2SC5200/A1943 from Mouser that I just purchased for this. I did notice during initial setup, I noticed the heatsink in the middle of the chassis warmed up much faster than the other. So further inspection I noticed that 3 of the outputs would get up to 116 deg's pretty quick while the others sit around 80 to 90 deg's
I remember from way back yesteryear to check the voltage across each large emitter resistors to find the one that has a higher voltage than the others, this shows that that particular transitor is a current hog and will heat up faster than the others.
Have not done this yet, I'm waiting to get a batch of TTC5200/TTA1943 from Mouser to replace the 2SC/A's. Then I'll see.
 
I always measure mV at each emitter at first powerup, just to be sure that the output transistors is somewhat within the safezone without to big mismatch in-between those. Especially if the heatsinks is on the small side I found this important.

Might be overdoing things, but it makes me sleep well🙂
 
I ordered 50ps from the same batch of Onsemi MJL1302/3281 a while back for another project. I was quite surprised how well the VBE measured between the devices for quad pairs. Haven't tested Hfe though, and the project was paused when I spotted this thread and saw the measurements of the Wolverine 🙂
 
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On page 23 of the build guide Q9 is listed twice and Q10 is omitted. D3 and D12 would be much easier to install if they were put before Q7 and Q8.

Thanks for spotting that. I have update that in the Build Guide. The first Q9 should be Q10.
As far as putting D3 and D12 before Q7 and Q8.

As D3 and D12 only need soldering from the bottom I keep D3 and D12 after the installation of Q7 and Q8 as this will allow you to place some solder on the top pads for Q7 and Q8.
 
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Just curious, what would you estimate is the total cost for this project in the U.S.?
With DIYA Italian case + the power supply (1KVA toroid) 500+ $ easily.
If you are poor/cheap (me). I have 2 cases like the "dissipante" 5U X 300mm for 80$ (broken EBAY amps). They came with 2 working 400W SMPS !!
ANTEK in NJ had overstock 500VA 45V trafo's for 45 + 15$. Mouser order is 150+$. Mouser caps are pricey 12 X $6.30 (6800/80V). I'm going to clear out all my E-waste hardware in both these amps.
I might get away with 2 amps for <300$. Shop around.
There are so many sources , it would be subjective to try to estimate. Non-US will also have crazy import fees for US based sourcing !!
OS
 

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