DIY Class A/B Amp The "Wolverine" build thread

@Mainframe

I think I'll go with a pair or two extra for the 3503/1381's to have some spare if something blows up, as I guess these are hard to get...

Chassis wise, I'm waiting to see this new version of Deluxe, but yes, definitely going with 400mm depth, at least it's going to be easier to work with....

BTW, what is IPS board anyway? To bad we can't get the docs and BOMs prior placing order, I think it would help to understand the project better...

Thanks man, much appreciated!
 
IPS = Input stage - (loosely speaking) This is where the small input signal is brought up to a high voltage and handed to the
OPS = output stage - This is where the high voltage from the IPS drives the current gain through the output devices from the power supply to the load.

The IPS/OPS are made so that the IPS is modular, unpluggable and replaced by any other of your choosing.
 
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Copy that!

In case of EF3-4, do I need to run 71V rails or I can run 64V?

If the output will stay the same as planned for EF3-3 and I don't need to spec out different transformers and PSU components, I'm happy with the amp spec and to go with Deluxe 5U + EF3-4.

To summarize, it would be Deluxe 5U, 2 x (2x45 AC) transformers and EF3-4 boards.
 
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We're getting confused again (sorry I should have alluded earlier). EF3-3 need 6x heatsinks because the OPS drivers are on an auxiliary heatsink of their own (VAS, pre-driver and driver). EF3-4 need only 4x heatsinks, VAS and pre-driver, because the drivers mount on the main chassis heatsinks.

There is a version of the EF3-4 that needs 6x heatsinks, that is where you choose to mount the boards perpendicular to the main chassis heatsinks and not parallel to. Yes, it looks like there is a typo in the sheet.

Just remember that because of this, the EF3-3 doesn't require any heatsink drilling and tapping if you have a UMS 300 or 400 deep chassis. The EF3-4 will require drilling and tapping (~5x holes) in the main heatsink on the same UMS layout.

If you order a deluxe 5U -it default only has the UMS 400mm layout and will require those 5 holes added for EF3-4 (if you cannot do so yourself). Email modushop or PM @Gianluca to help with this, they can provide this service.

This is where things get even more tricky because modushop have options for different output transistors packages. I think most builders stick with the TO3-P outputs.
 
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EF3-3 overlaid on the original UMS drill pattern - wolverine holes marked in blue - TO3-P output transistors mount to the six holes along the top.

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EF3-4 overlaid on the original UMS drill pattern - holes used marked in blue - holes that require drilling marked in orange.

1742610768554.png


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Stuarts board pictured above - you can just see the screwtops of the drivers and Vbe transistor through the holes. 2x auxiliary heatsinks per board.

So yeah, for no custom drilling and tapping its EF3-3 on either the 4U deluxe 300mm deep or 5U deluxe 400mm deep UMS chassis, unless you arrange otherwise with Modushop or order their heatsink substitute.
 
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Once again, thank you so much for your detailed answers and explanations!

Just remember that because of this, the EF3-3 doesn't require any heatsink drilling and tapping if you have a UMS 300 or 400 deep chassis. The EF3-4 will require drilling and tapping (~5x holes) in the main heatsink on the same UMS layout.

Awesome, so Deluxe 4U 400mm depth (which is basically Modushop's Dissipante 4U 400mm with all the additional drilling and cutting done) will work plug and play with EF3-3 as that one comes with UMS 400 spec. And there should not be any "fitting" issues as with 300mm depth one, so all good there.

Hope I finally connected the dots correctly, if not, just let me know and I'll let myself out.

Deluxe 4U 400mm, DIYClassD Soft Start Module, 2 x (2x45 AC) transformers, W12 PSU board + dual rectifiers, EF3-3 boards + IPS boards, TO3-P outputs, small 12V trans for speaker protection and auxiliary stuff.

Last check attached, proceeding with registration if approved.
 

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Hello everyone.

I'm interested in the V5. I'd like a pair of EF3.3. (others boards, pair SA181E-SC3503E, etc.)
But I saw that it's possible to order many other items.
Could you tell me where I could find a complete list of what we can order from you (with prices, of course).

Thank you in advance.

Great work, designers and developers.
 
Build guide says 40mV, then creep up to 44mV. Be sure the lid is on if you have one, just like it will be ran. Let it stabilze for about 20-30 minutes, then quickly remove lid and make change, then replace lid and let it stabilize. I had to do this about 5-6 times.
 
^ Sweet!

Version... that's a tough one. My advice is to take a look at the kick butt spreadsheet one of the folks put together. I can't look it up right now, or I'd just attach it for you. It walks through a phenomenal path from the "speakers backward" to help determine rail voltages / power etc. based on even the dynamic range of the music you listen to etc. etc. It's amazing.

Perhaps someone has super easy access and can attach it quickly for you in a post.
@ItsAllInMyHead I am starting my research into building a Wolverine and in reading through many forum posts I saw this one about a spreadsheet that sounds very useful. Any idea which post you saw this spreadsheet in? Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-wolverine-5th-group-buy.425099/ - here you can find all the group buy parts for the Wolverine build. To order you need to follow the instructions from the first post in the thread.

https://diyaudiostore.com/ - other amp, preamp and other build kits
@dovla83 I have followed most of your questions and they were helpful for someone like me who is also just starting out learning about this amplifier. I need to get caught up on how to make PSU selections and I didn't find the thread where you received that guidance. If you or others can point someone like me to how to select all the components necessary to build a Wolverine stereo amplifier without having access to the BOM or build instructions it would be greatly appreciated.
 
Yeah it's kinda "chicken and egg" problem but you need to start somewhere. Do you care about the output power? That was my starting point and I went with 2x200w@8ohm dual mono. I never had dual mono so I decided to go that route (and maybe upgrade to dedicated monoblock chassis in future). Then I was sizing everything from there.

Check out this table provided by @Mainframe

power.png


Once you know your rail voltages you can pick PSU components.

Hope this helps as a starting point.
 
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Yeah it's kinda "chicken and egg" problem but you need to start somewhere. Do you care about the output power? That was my starting point and I went with 2x200w@8ohm dual mono. I never had dual mono so I decided to go that route (and maybe upgrade to dedicated monoblock chassis in future). Then I was sizing everything from there.

Check out this table provided by @Mainframe

View attachment 1439825

Once you know your rail voltages you can pick PSU components.

Hope this helps as a starting point.
Do you know what is meant by "oversized"? Is there a common brand or model transformer being used? What is meant by a dual mono block design amplifier? Ideally I would have an amplifier that could serve my left, center, and right channels at 200W each but I haven't seen any 3 channel designs here so I may stick to a stereo or monoblock design.