Clear....I specifically asked modushop to drill the input holes next to eachother based on a tip in the wolverine docs to connect the 2 input grounds t o one cap which is connected to the chassis.I prefer keeping RCA sockets close to their respective boards
Nothing. Resoldered.Nice soldering David....what's this little "eye", hole, testpoint doing?
View attachment 1253556
My eyes are not young.
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I found a triplet jewelry loupe helps to make QC with old eyes more successful.
It's exactly like that connected to the chassisYou need a ceramic capacitor (1000pf)
30 uV is getting there !That's probably it. Disconnected the left channel input cable and shorted it with wire. Now it measures pretty much in the ballpark I guess with an AC offset of 0.03 mv and a dc offset fluctuating slowly between - 0.2 and + 0.2 mv. Need to reroute the left input cable🙂
AC
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DC
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I think that you have the cause or the problem, if you were to use a high quality shielded wire like a star quad or a twisted pair with braid and foil shield with good coverage you might find hum is not picked up as much.
As an alternative in the past I have used a right angle bracket to mount a soft start on the back panel, this might help keep the transformer away from your input leads and outside of the loop area which it is currently very close to.
Another option is just simply longer standoffs.
I hope this helps.
Happy new year to you and all in this thread !
- Daniel
thx Daniel!...was thinking the same thing...Happy New Year to everyone!As an alternative in the past I have used a right angle bracket to mount a soft start on the back panel, this might help keep the transformer away from your input leads and outside of the loop area which it is currently very close to.
Another option is just simply longer standoffs.
The cable has 2 solid wires and is screened. I'm using the the 2 wires (per channel) for RCA+ and RCA -. The screen is not connected to anything yet.You need screen cables,central wire to RCA +, screen to RCA -.
w.
I would never used a non shielded for input wire.😉
A shielded cable with shieled connected to nothing isn't a shilded cable.
Use one wire for (+inp) and the shield for (-input).
Happy New Year to all of you!
A shielded cable with shieled connected to nothing isn't a shilded cable.
Use one wire for (+inp) and the shield for (-input).
Happy New Year to all of you!
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I'm lost a bit. I've got the 2 wires connected to the input. If I connect the shield to the chassis (not he - input) then I should be good to go.....or not?
euhm...one side?...how does that work? The shield is wrapped around the 2 wires. How can there by a side?.....I'm getting this all wrong🙂Connect one side of the screen to the chassis.
The theory of connecting one side of the shield to the chassis is that any noise/ hum that is picked up (from the softstart) will not get into the audio ground.
However it is possible to connect one side of the shield and the -input together as suggested above but you would need to measure the noise to see which solution is best for your application.
Hope that makes sense.
However it is possible to connect one side of the shield and the -input together as suggested above but you would need to measure the noise to see which solution is best for your application.
Hope that makes sense.
Looking at the picture I always thought the shield should be connected in the opposite end
Audio lab gear from the naughties full of 'em. An 8000x7 nets you 14x of them, 8000a's have 4x, 8000m's have 4x each. The legs are trimmed to fit their chassis though, hence my use of an intermediate heat spreader.Nice, Sankens!
HelloLooking at the picture I always thought the shield should be connected in the opposite end
You just have to invert the cable and see which position you prefer to listen to.
Best regards
Carlos
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