Hi Everyone,
New builder here. I would like to ask more experienced members for an advice.
I would like to use this SMPS for this build:
https://www.soundimports.eu/en/hypex-smps1200a400.html
As it is first time when I use SMPS I have couple of questions:
1. Is there any reason to not use this power supply?
2. In BOM, Sheet2 SMPS 65Vis shown as an equivalent of 71V linear PS. Thanking this into consideration, which parts should I use? These marked as +-70.71Vdc or these marked +-63.64Vdc?
Thanks!
New builder here. I would like to ask more experienced members for an advice.
I would like to use this SMPS for this build:
https://www.soundimports.eu/en/hypex-smps1200a400.html
As it is first time when I use SMPS I have couple of questions:
1. Is there any reason to not use this power supply?
2. In BOM, Sheet2 SMPS 65Vis shown as an equivalent of 71V linear PS. Thanking this into consideration, which parts should I use? These marked as +-70.71Vdc or these marked +-63.64Vdc?
Thanks!
If I'm not wrong, the smps is regulated and the voltage will not drop at high power. These means that at 1w and 200w the voltage will be 65V. But a normal power supply will go down at max power for 5 or even more volts. So there will be only 60V and this resulting in lower output power. So you need 70v to have 65v at max power for desired power.
I hope is clear
Use bom of 65v if your smps is 65v nominal.
I hope is clear
Use bom of 65v if your smps is 65v nominal.
I prefer the linear power supply.
I can repair this easily.
If smps failed you have to pay again to replace.Do not expect to repair💥
I would choose smps if i would have sponsors🎁
I can repair this easily.
If smps failed you have to pay again to replace.Do not expect to repair💥
I would choose smps if i would have sponsors🎁
You can use the smps1200a400 just fine. I have and it had no issues. Stick with parts that say 65v smps on sheet 2 but on sheet 1 you just use parts that are +/- 63.64V.
Contrary to what was said above that power supply is unregulated, and does droop at full load, just not as much as conventional transformer linear power supplies. See the data sheet for the power supply for more details.
Also the power supply was designed to be a power supply that is convenient to work with hypex class D power supply’s, not “non class AB power supplies”. The power supply is just that, a dual rail power supply and can work with any class of amplifier or even an LED lamp. It has a lot of features that make it match with hypex amps because it has auxiliary driver and regulated power rails, which you don’t need to use for Wolverine, but are also handy if you need auxiliary power for speaker protection boards.
The more experienced techs here tend to shy away from SMPS because the early ones they are familiar with were junk and didn’t last, that is not so much the case anymore, and of the tens of thousands of hypex units out there, I think I’ve reports of only a couple fail. Linear power supplies can fail too, they just have fewer electronic components, the trade off being weight and sometimes expense.
Either way you go, linear or SMPS, works.
Contrary to what was said above that power supply is unregulated, and does droop at full load, just not as much as conventional transformer linear power supplies. See the data sheet for the power supply for more details.
Also the power supply was designed to be a power supply that is convenient to work with hypex class D power supply’s, not “non class AB power supplies”. The power supply is just that, a dual rail power supply and can work with any class of amplifier or even an LED lamp. It has a lot of features that make it match with hypex amps because it has auxiliary driver and regulated power rails, which you don’t need to use for Wolverine, but are also handy if you need auxiliary power for speaker protection boards.
The more experienced techs here tend to shy away from SMPS because the early ones they are familiar with were junk and didn’t last, that is not so much the case anymore, and of the tens of thousands of hypex units out there, I think I’ve reports of only a couple fail. Linear power supplies can fail too, they just have fewer electronic components, the trade off being weight and sometimes expense.
Either way you go, linear or SMPS, works.
@mainframe99 and @ghitus
Great, thanks a lot for your feedback.
Are there anything more I should take care when using SMPS? Did you use any inrush protection or additional filtering? This will be my first build with SMPS so any hints are welcomed 🙂.
Great, thanks a lot for your feedback.
Are there anything more I should take care when using SMPS? Did you use any inrush protection or additional filtering? This will be my first build with SMPS so any hints are welcomed 🙂.
I’m in the process of building a EF3-3 v4.0. A huge shout out to Fireanimal for providing the components. I’m mostly done with the soldering and was gearing up to test one channel. Attached are a few photos, constructive feedback is welcomed and appreciated.
I’ve run into an issue with mounting the boards on the heat sinks. I would like to avoid spinning my wheels, so please forgive the dumb question. Are the EF3-3 and EF3-4 mounting holes the same? I’m assuming the EF3-4 has additional mounting holes. The hole patterns in Dropbox and in the build, guide only mentions EF3-4. I’ve tried searching the thread, but I can’t find the answer.
I purchased the Dissipante 4U from Modushop, with the Wolverine EF3-4 drilled hole substitution. The issue I am running into is twofold…Modushop sent me 4 heat sinks, 3 of which had the exact same hole pattern. I’ve reached out to them but have not heard back. Effectively I can only mount one channel at this point with what I have, without drilling and taping new holes.
The second issue occurs when I go to mount the precision EF3-3 board. I can only get 4 holes to line up (see photo with standoffs). I’m trying to figure out if I goofed, by assuming the hole pattern was the same or did Modushop send me heat sinks with the wrong drill pattern.
I’ve run into an issue with mounting the boards on the heat sinks. I would like to avoid spinning my wheels, so please forgive the dumb question. Are the EF3-3 and EF3-4 mounting holes the same? I’m assuming the EF3-4 has additional mounting holes. The hole patterns in Dropbox and in the build, guide only mentions EF3-4. I’ve tried searching the thread, but I can’t find the answer.
I purchased the Dissipante 4U from Modushop, with the Wolverine EF3-4 drilled hole substitution. The issue I am running into is twofold…Modushop sent me 4 heat sinks, 3 of which had the exact same hole pattern. I’ve reached out to them but have not heard back. Effectively I can only mount one channel at this point with what I have, without drilling and taping new holes.
The second issue occurs when I go to mount the precision EF3-3 board. I can only get 4 holes to line up (see photo with standoffs). I’m trying to figure out if I goofed, by assuming the hole pattern was the same or did Modushop send me heat sinks with the wrong drill pattern.
Attachments
Another advantage of well designed SMPS - inrush protection aka soft starts, are not required.
Keep in mind you have to remove J103 after the first test phase. Maybe it would be a better idea to mount this one on the top side so you can remove it more easily after this step.
I unfortunately need to take a hiatus from build projects for a while due to life and work circumstances. Which is a bummer because this amp is amazing, and I'm in the home stretch.
I have my EF3-3 and IPS boards stuffed (well 97% stuffed), and I have a high-quality SMPS (MicroAudio Cobra) @ +/-70VDC.
The vast majority of my semi's came matched from @fireanimal (grateful, again!), and I opted for all of the "higher-quality" caps and resistors from the BOM. The outputs are MJL4281AG & MJL4302AG.
Not that it matters much, but I also use Cardas Quad Eutectic solder for everything.
(Hadn't got around to cleaning the flux from the EF3 boards)
Looking to sell my parts for this board, if anyone here is interested. Could save a good chunk of change and time for a future build.
I'll also include Stuart's T-GND Lift combo board, and I have a couple of new Guardian-86 protection boards, if interested.
All one would need to provide is a chassis, wiring, and connecting hardware to complete the build.
Sorry to disrupt the thread for this, but figured it may be pertinent to someone here. Just let me know!
No doubt I'll return once again to this project a few years or so down the road -- it's just so epic and the documentation is top-tier. Super grateful to all.
Hi Mike, please send me a PM about this. As you've said one of the heatsinks has been incorrectly drilled and there's no problem in sending you a replacement. I have sent you an email a couple of days ago but I guess you did not receive it
Hi Guy's,
Just a quick update, @fireanimal and I received the group buy PCB'S today. We'll begin processing them and sending out payment requests.
Just give us a day or so to sort and organise things.
Thanks for your patience 🙏
Just a quick update, @fireanimal and I received the group buy PCB'S today. We'll begin processing them and sending out payment requests.
Just give us a day or so to sort and organise things.
Thanks for your patience 🙏
Hi, I'm preparing to build my first Wolverine (waiting for the boards in the last buy group). Two quick questions:
1) Which rail voltage would you suggest? I do not have particular constraints. So, what's best? Limiting the voltage to 64v or going full power with 71v?
2) For the sake of simplicity, I was thinking of building a single transformer PSU. Is it ok or I'm better off with a dual mono configuration?
1) Which rail voltage would you suggest? I do not have particular constraints. So, what's best? Limiting the voltage to 64v or going full power with 71v?
2) For the sake of simplicity, I was thinking of building a single transformer PSU. Is it ok or I'm better off with a dual mono configuration?
@andreax1985, There are successful builds with either of your mentioned configurations. For dual mono I suggest separate cabinets as some builders using a dual mono setup in a single cabinet had trouble getting there amp silent. It will raise the needed budget considerable. 2 x 71V DC (2 x 50V AC) rails has a slight advantage over 2 x 64V DC, a bit more headroom, but I think it's unlikely you will be able to differentiate them in a ABX test.
Hi Andreax,
It might be worth having a look at the last couple of videos I did on my Wolverine build (link in signature line)
You can certainly achieve a "silent" build with dual mono.
It is nicer to have 71V dc rails for a bit more headroom especially if you have less sensitive speakers, but you need to consider idle dissipation.
Good luck with.your build, have fun !
- Dan