I'll PM my shipping address so that you can send one. Thank you for the generous offer.
In the ACN manual, Nelson Pass writes, "we decided that minimum power rating of the amplifiers is 80 watts on the bottom and 25 the top". That's a different crossover and much different speakers, but perhaps relevant.
to jamayfie #879 #882
Hello jamyfie,
I assume you want to crossover at 2 kHz (=2000Hz)? 🙄
The MHz-range is not a good frequencyrange for us human beings to listen.
Your drivers are both around 96dB/W/m? I think it is a 2-way-speakersystem.
You want to use your V-fet-amp with 10 W for the Mid/Highs.
My rule-of-thumb is 5 to 10 times the power for bass/midrange-amp.
I would look for an amp of minmum 50-100W for the bass/midrange.
A 1000W classD-amp is not necessary. But if you want to - possible. I would say the gain-structure of a 10W V-Fet-amp and a 1000W classD-amp isn't the
'perfect' solution. Try your dusty 50W amps. Try how it sounds and if you have enough power/drive/soundquality... Later you can decide to build something 'nice' for the bass/midrange - perhaps in classA?
Cheers
Dirk😀
My amps in my active system at the moment:
mid/highs (above 2500Hz): M2X
bass/midrange (80 - 2500Hz): 50W SE-Schade amp
sub (below 80 Hz): BA-3 or F5T
Hello jamyfie,
I assume you want to crossover at 2 kHz (=2000Hz)? 🙄
The MHz-range is not a good frequencyrange for us human beings to listen.
Your drivers are both around 96dB/W/m? I think it is a 2-way-speakersystem.
You want to use your V-fet-amp with 10 W for the Mid/Highs.
My rule-of-thumb is 5 to 10 times the power for bass/midrange-amp.
I would look for an amp of minmum 50-100W for the bass/midrange.
A 1000W classD-amp is not necessary. But if you want to - possible. I would say the gain-structure of a 10W V-Fet-amp and a 1000W classD-amp isn't the
'perfect' solution. Try your dusty 50W amps. Try how it sounds and if you have enough power/drive/soundquality... Later you can decide to build something 'nice' for the bass/midrange - perhaps in classA?
Cheers
Dirk😀
My amps in my active system at the moment:
mid/highs (above 2500Hz): M2X
bass/midrange (80 - 2500Hz): 50W SE-Schade amp
sub (below 80 Hz): BA-3 or F5T
Hi all,
What is the minimum power supply voltage the crossover board would tolerate? I'm planning to integrate the crossover with a BA2018 line stage in the same enclosure, 2 boards of each for a fully balanced setup. I'm wondering if I can power the crossover boards with the same power supply as I'm using for the preamp boards. I'm using the Audiosy bipolar power supply set at 20v DC output (this is the maximum the voltage regulators in the power supply are rated for).
I've tried searching the thread but can't seem to find anything... Any advice gratefully received.
What is the minimum power supply voltage the crossover board would tolerate? I'm planning to integrate the crossover with a BA2018 line stage in the same enclosure, 2 boards of each for a fully balanced setup. I'm wondering if I can power the crossover boards with the same power supply as I'm using for the preamp boards. I'm using the Audiosy bipolar power supply set at 20v DC output (this is the maximum the voltage regulators in the power supply are rated for).
I've tried searching the thread but can't seem to find anything... Any advice gratefully received.
I find that crossing over to a UHF transmitter "ultra tweeter" adds extra sparkle to the high end....
... Yes, 2000 Hz. Thank you for sharing your guidelines.
20 V DC is fine. Lower voltage limits the maximum output voltage, but otherwise
no much of an issue.
no much of an issue.
Very successful outcome
Recently I finished the 6-24 for my bi amp setup, two Adcom GFA-5500 running PureAcoustic Project Trio15 with Voxativ AC1.6. Crossing @420 Hz 6dB/oct. I used only two pots for the input, Precision Electronics 50k 2W.
Wanted to thank Nelson for sharing his idea and ingenuity. It just transformed my setup! No more opamp- based active filters for me.
Recently I finished the 6-24 for my bi amp setup, two Adcom GFA-5500 running PureAcoustic Project Trio15 with Voxativ AC1.6. Crossing @420 Hz 6dB/oct. I used only two pots for the input, Precision Electronics 50k 2W.
Attachments
I discovered that my midhorn can only reach 270Hz with a 48dB highpass. With 24dB it starts somewhere around 400Hz, even if I set minidsp to 270Hz. Is 48dB highpass possible?
My search skills have been found wanting and 889 posts defeat my reading time.
3-Way Speaker = 2 boards?
3-Way Speaker = 2 boards?
I measured some J113 I got with 6-24 crossover kit. The IDSS is 17,5mA. I got some 2SK170 with IDSS 10,8mA. I want to use 2SK170 in Q1 position. Is there any formula to calculate bias resistors?
Hi!
I have just ended to read the entire thread and wondering if this project is suitable for my speakers Altec 601c.
I'm not very clear regarding Tannoy DC... undertand that they are also a kind of coaxial configuration similar to my Altec 601c (duplex).
My idea is to replicate the Altec passive xo at 3khz (schematic in the picture).
Many thanks in advance!!
Attachments
Sorry for the bit off topic, I will probably move to using the full crossover when I build my next speakers. For now I want to use my current bi- wired speakers ( separate inputs to the woofer tweeter crossovers) and buffer my 2 amps through this crossover. Can that be done basically bypassing the filter section until I need it? I looked at the Pass B2 but I don’t see them anywhere and in the end this would serve 2 purposes. .
Thanks
Bill
Thanks
Bill
Hi
Have anyone experienced shifting gains between L and R channels? Initially the right channel was too weak so I overcompensated by setting the R gain higher than L gain which balanced the sound. Then after a few weeks the L gain became too weak so had to lower the R gain
Could the potentiometers be the culprit?
Have anyone experienced shifting gains between L and R channels? Initially the right channel was too weak so I overcompensated by setting the R gain higher than L gain which balanced the sound. Then after a few weeks the L gain became too weak so had to lower the R gain
Could the potentiometers be the culprit?
they could be, same as any other potentially weak/bad executed point in signal chain
if you onserve same issue, no other way than to deduce where problem is with signal measurement, comparing two channels, starting from source, then along the chain
if you onserve same issue, no other way than to deduce where problem is with signal measurement, comparing two channels, starting from source, then along the chain
If you live in a humid environment or close to the sea I have had RCA jacks build up enough corrosion to require cleaning. We have bad air where I live and every once in a while one channel will drop and I clean it with a detoxifier spray and good for another year. Probably if I used more high end plated plugs and jacks it would not happen so much, but the price of Cardis and other brands is out of my league.
Bill
Bill
Thanks guys! Is there a "better" trimmer then the one in
the bom? Preferably with clicks or notches?
the bom? Preferably with clicks or notches?
Here's my goal, will this accomplish it?
I would like to have (per side) 1 full range and 1 mid bass speaker.
I'd pass the low pass filter out to the mid bass speaker.
I'd modify the high pass filter by putting in a switch that takes the output of the input section and sends it directly to the output (just before the 10uF cap?). No signal would get sent to the actual filters. This output goes to the full range.
I know I could just send a preamp output directly to the full range, but this seems, ore m symmetric and neater.
Note: I know there are amps between the filter outputs and speakers, I knitted that for brevity.
I would like to have (per side) 1 full range and 1 mid bass speaker.
I'd pass the low pass filter out to the mid bass speaker.
I'd modify the high pass filter by putting in a switch that takes the output of the input section and sends it directly to the output (just before the 10uF cap?). No signal would get sent to the actual filters. This output goes to the full range.
I know I could just send a preamp output directly to the full range, but this seems, ore m symmetric and neater.
Note: I know there are amps between the filter outputs and speakers, I knitted that for brevity.
I'm not the best to reply here and probably Zen or someone similar would be best.
However .... Questions and concerns.
1. Where exactly do you intend to jump out of the input section ? After the buffer stage of before ? After the buffer I believe carries a bias element.
2.I'm concerned of the effects of creating a purpose made short from one end of the circuit to the other. Seems I'll advised. Possibly use a double switch that opens the connection out (?) of the crossover as you bypass with the other leg of the switch.
3. I'm assuming you are intending to bypass the h pass section at times with a switch. My gut feeling, if i were to go about this, would be with the dpdt switch that disengages the output from the crossover and jumps the crossover circuit completely (input to output).
Sharper minds will hopefully chime in....this seems certainly dooable.
Best of luck... I have built this for use as a sub/hipass to full rangers. Works well , sounds great, no noise at all, and it added the ability to balance outputs if one of the tubes in the chain is a tad bit weaker than its partner.
Take care.
However .... Questions and concerns.
1. Where exactly do you intend to jump out of the input section ? After the buffer stage of before ? After the buffer I believe carries a bias element.
2.I'm concerned of the effects of creating a purpose made short from one end of the circuit to the other. Seems I'll advised. Possibly use a double switch that opens the connection out (?) of the crossover as you bypass with the other leg of the switch.
3. I'm assuming you are intending to bypass the h pass section at times with a switch. My gut feeling, if i were to go about this, would be with the dpdt switch that disengages the output from the crossover and jumps the crossover circuit completely (input to output).
Sharper minds will hopefully chime in....this seems certainly dooable.
Best of luck... I have built this for use as a sub/hipass to full rangers. Works well , sounds great, no noise at all, and it added the ability to balance outputs if one of the tubes in the chain is a tad bit weaker than its partner.
Take care.