What do you mean by both? I know of the 1000 micF that are polar. But what about the 8 10 micF?
you asked "which one is right?"
I replied - both
you can use either polarized or nonpolarized, wherever you see + sign
choose by your own liking, no rule that bipolar is sounding better
I replied - both
you can use either polarized or nonpolarized, wherever you see + sign
choose by your own liking, no rule that bipolar is sounding better
So I did an excel sheet for the C and C2 tuning caps. Maybe this will be helpful to some who are getting a headache figuring out what you want, vs what's available and then interpreting nF/uF/pF values. Decimal points count!
Do NOT assume this is all correct. Check it for yourself.
Do NOT assume this is all correct. Check it for yourself.
I've set up my crossover for fourth order LR on low and high at 2500Hz. I'm prepared to take lots of measurements and notes but I'm a little fuzzy on what I'm adjusting. Each filter (both low and high) has a pot that adjusts input level and each filter (both low and high) has two stages that contain both P1 and P2. I take some base measurements and then I can start adjusting pots at random but I prefer a more 'measured' approach. Suggestions?
Regards,
Dan 🙂
Regards,
Dan 🙂
Here's how I think about it: moving all four trimers the same amount moves the HP or LP frequency up and down. Changing individual trimers changes the curve of slope (and the frequency too a little).
Remember that in the crossover region sound is coming from both drivers. You want those to combine to a pleasing volume. Nelson says in the manual that for 24 dB/oct you might want to keep the P2 pots abut 1/2 the resistance for a good blend.
--Warning: This is probably a gross simplification if it isn't completely wrong...
I will stay tuned for that! I'd love to know what to expect from the adjustments. Some analytical evidence would be great. Thank you!
Playing around with various c/c2 values I wasn’t seeing many Wima fkp2 options that would suit for subwoofer application and maintain 2.5%. Though it’s probable that’s my fault, it led me to look for some alternatives that would fit the pcb.
Someone may want to check this but it looks like alternate options along with range for use with a sub might be 250v mkp caps from Kemet. I think ~ 47-120hz could be reached with .082uf and .036uf in these.
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/212/F3301_R79-1103144.pdf
Someone may want to check this but it looks like alternate options along with range for use with a sub might be 250v mkp caps from Kemet. I think ~ 47-120hz could be reached with .082uf and .036uf in these.
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/212/F3301_R79-1103144.pdf
hello, I'll start with crossower soon and before that I would like to ask the Diy community something: I'm looking for absolutely reliable potentiometers, as I've even had problems with Burns. It should be a bit more expensive, but with such a quantity the quality should be right, otherwise it takes forever to adjust. and secondly: who has experience with silver-containing soldering? thanks
On solder I used Cardas Eutectic solder, which has some silver content. It’s been very easy to work with stuffing the pcb. It flows very smoothly with my iron set to 220. I don’t know that it’s result is any different than any quality solder. It’s rosin core so it can spatter some, probably a good idea to be prepared to clean up the rosin post.
Cardas Quad Eutectic Roll Solder
On pots I had a challenge just keeping them relatively aligned, since they are loose in the holes there’s quite a bit of float. This is possibly as significant as variance between the pots themselves. You could always buy a larger quantity and make matched sets based on actual testing either recording sweeps or taking readings at several points. This should ensure dials are more closely aligned. Alternatively resistance values could be adjusted with a meter reading resistance instead of visually by the indicator as this would take into account actual versus expected values.
Cardas Quad Eutectic Roll Solder
On pots I had a challenge just keeping them relatively aligned, since they are loose in the holes there’s quite a bit of float. This is possibly as significant as variance between the pots themselves. You could always buy a larger quantity and make matched sets based on actual testing either recording sweeps or taking readings at several points. This should ensure dials are more closely aligned. Alternatively resistance values could be adjusted with a meter reading resistance instead of visually by the indicator as this would take into account actual versus expected values.
Hallo dezibaby,
regarding solder, I am using the Fixpoint silver-bearing solder since more than 10 years. Has always worked well for me.
Soldering Station with 80 W, normally set to 360 deg C, for gound planes or fat cables 400 deg C.
Only drawback against the old and trusted 60/40 Sn/Pb is: more difficult to desolder because of the higher temperatures needed. My desoldering station sometimes reaches its limits ...
For example, You can get it from Kessler:
Lotzinn 100 Gramm o1,0mm Sn95,5Ag3,8CU0,7 Lotdraht mit Flussmittel von fixpoint | eBay
or Reichelt:
Security Check
(the Goobay solder is exactly the same thing).
Depending upon which Bornheim you are in, Kessler may be located right in your neighbourhood ... 🙂
Regards, Claas
regarding solder, I am using the Fixpoint silver-bearing solder since more than 10 years. Has always worked well for me.
Soldering Station with 80 W, normally set to 360 deg C, for gound planes or fat cables 400 deg C.
Only drawback against the old and trusted 60/40 Sn/Pb is: more difficult to desolder because of the higher temperatures needed. My desoldering station sometimes reaches its limits ...
For example, You can get it from Kessler:
Lotzinn 100 Gramm o1,0mm Sn95,5Ag3,8CU0,7 Lotdraht mit Flussmittel von fixpoint | eBay
or Reichelt:
Security Check
(the Goobay solder is exactly the same thing).
Depending upon which Bornheim you are in, Kessler may be located right in your neighbourhood ... 🙂
Regards, Claas
Hello everyone, I heard / read about silver solder that it corrodes over time, forms salt and causes leakage currents until it explodes. With Trimmer, I make sure that they themselves let their resistance sway back and forth untouched.
I only have a bit over 10 years experience with silver-bearing solder ... have not found any corrosion yet, not even on my oldest amps.
Silver soldier will last a lifetime, if you have any concerns, just spray clear coat or used clear nail polish and paint over and of the soldered joints and it will last longer then your lifetime. I do this when I use solder without lead or all aluminum or copper clad aluminum wire ends
Thank you very much. It sounds convincing. Then I'll try it in the Crossower. And trimmer? Does anyone know such manufacturers who ALWAYS deliver stable values?
to dezibaby #652
Hello dezibaby,
in my 6-24 XO-builds I used 25-turn -trimmers from bourns. I also like the vishay/spectrol multiturn-trimmers.
I did not have problems with trimmers that often - only if I tortured them by to much/ long heat during soldering or turning them to the extremes till it clicked 3rd time - and then there was no click anymore😉.
You could go another extreme route: dip-switch and fixed resistors...
Is it necessary? ... No
Greets
Dirk 😀
Hello dezibaby,
in my 6-24 XO-builds I used 25-turn -trimmers from bourns. I also like the vishay/spectrol multiturn-trimmers.
I did not have problems with trimmers that often - only if I tortured them by to much/ long heat during soldering or turning them to the extremes till it clicked 3rd time - and then there was no click anymore😉.
You could go another extreme route: dip-switch and fixed resistors...
Is it necessary? ... No
Greets
Dirk 😀
would it work if I use a single board to cover mids and highs and then a minidsp to deal with the bass? Or would integration mean its better to use 2 boards instead?