I just realized that the Pd on the 2SK209 SOT-23 package is only 150mW, which might create a problem.
Nelson,
Not sure how deep your board revision will go (just swapping legs?) but while your at it could you increases the space and lead-wire spacing for the caps to have more flexibility here? I would also find it handy if it was possible to parallel caps. Needs more real estate though.
The shop could call it a high end version, or special edition 🙂
Not sure how deep your board revision will go (just swapping legs?) but while your at it could you increases the space and lead-wire spacing for the caps to have more flexibility here? I would also find it handy if it was possible to parallel caps. Needs more real estate though.
The shop could call it a high end version, or special edition 🙂
Why making it so complicated with a differential crossover from in- to output? These two halves need to be very carefully balanced in order not to distort. The useual way have is to adapt the in- and outputs doing the conversion from differential-to-single ended and vice versa, keeping whats in between in a single end mode.
If you do as Roger Gustafsson says you will have good CMRR at the input of the filter circuit. The penalty might be a cascading of active stages.
I have used impedance balanced output. This is what Is used on my BPBP. (Bruno Putzey Balanced Preamp). Not sure how effective it is but it sounds wonderful.
ok to no gain
i can see the output caps are 10uf,,, can the caps for high pass be a lower value..?
i can see the output caps are 10uf,,, can the caps for high pass be a lower value..?
Active system for old Tannoys?
Hello!
My grandfather's 50-year-old Tannoy Monitor Gold 15 speakers are sounding muffled.
I have checked for physical wear around the cone/spider and found none.
The worldwideweb suggests that the crossover capacitors be replaced.
Incidentally the 40-year-old JVC stereo amp that powers the speakers is failing too.
I stumbled upon Nelson Pass and Rod Elliott articles on active crossovers and bi-amping and this got me wondering... are these speakers a suitable candidate for an active system?
Or should I just re-cap the existing crossovers and pursue a different project?
I am a DIY-curious novice with no electronics background and only one super simple preamp build under my belt.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers!
Hello!
My grandfather's 50-year-old Tannoy Monitor Gold 15 speakers are sounding muffled.
I have checked for physical wear around the cone/spider and found none.
The worldwideweb suggests that the crossover capacitors be replaced.
Incidentally the 40-year-old JVC stereo amp that powers the speakers is failing too.
I stumbled upon Nelson Pass and Rod Elliott articles on active crossovers and bi-amping and this got me wondering... are these speakers a suitable candidate for an active system?
Or should I just re-cap the existing crossovers and pursue a different project?
I am a DIY-curious novice with no electronics background and only one super simple preamp build under my belt.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers!
Adding some EQ for a sub
I'm going to use one board for a sub, but I'm pretty sure it will need some EQ boost. Comparing Papa's LX-mini Xover schematic to the 6-24, they look very similar. Mind you I'm still a noob, but would it be possible to add a EQ circuit to the front end of the low pass filter?
I'm going to use one board for a sub, but I'm pretty sure it will need some EQ boost. Comparing Papa's LX-mini Xover schematic to the 6-24, they look very similar. Mind you I'm still a noob, but would it be possible to add a EQ circuit to the front end of the low pass filter?Nelson seems to suggest in post number 163 that careful matching for differential operation isn’t quite so important
Nobody said they have to be perfect. Nominal matching of levels, say
10%, will still provide good noise rejection, and there are no distortion
issues to speak of.
10% off and no problem?!
I have found a balanced 2 or 3 way already build board from xkitz opamp based. But if the missmatch iisnt that much of an issue I could use this one too...🙂
you need sorta special xover for Tannoy DC - not just Newman compensation for compression driver ( rising electrical compensating declining acoustical output, in freq. domain, but also specific notch circuit at some 3KHz
so, as novice, it's not (yet) for you ....... except in case that Pa is having ready solution for your case
recipe for DC - be sure that both cmpression drivers and bass cones are working as they should, refresh xover - clean all switches ( when you decide later which positions you preferm just hard solder them) and DIY nice Papamp
M2 (original, not various iterations of late) is my fave, not just because it sound gorgeously , but for novices that amp is extremely easy to make and set - practically just one trimpot, to set output offset ........ not extremely hot, so everything easier
you'll be in Tannoy Heaven, if your source and preamp are up to task
Thanks for that Zen Mod.
Will fix speakers as you suggest.
Been reading the M2X thread all afternoon - your thumbs up just made the decision to build it easier.
when I was speaking about ease of building and setting, I meant primarily of original M2 schematic
though, read and choose what suits you most
though, read and choose what suits you most
I am confused!
The 6-24 schematic and the PCB board call for polar caps (10 micF 25V) designated by the + sign I assume. But the parts list calls for a bipolar Nichon Muse caps. Which one is right ?
The 6-24 schematic and the PCB board call for polar caps (10 micF 25V) designated by the + sign I assume. But the parts list calls for a bipolar Nichon Muse caps. Which one is right ?