DIY biamp 6-24 crossover

Thanks for the encouraging updates and build pics !

My boards are now in Germany, another week and they should arrive here...

Unfortunately that's not my biggest concern, the ESS Heils' and my OTL's have engaged in yet another fist fight, got pretty ugly on both sides. The AMT having a bad habit of partly shorting out when driven hard, and the OTLs do NOT like 2ohms, 3.8 is probably torture already...

ha!

you can just dream ......

:)

And I am clearly too stupid to figure out what Dotir means - and whether I should be offended :p
 
I notice in the Schematic for Nelsons 6-24 BI AMP article that the input capacitor to the input buffer is marked as .1uf. But when looking at the board, it looks like that particular capacitor is marked as 10uf. On Nelson's BOM, I don't see a .1uf capacitor.

Is there a typo?? Doesn't seem like a large 10uf blocking cap is needed on the input...

Thanks
 
I notice in the Schematic for Nelsons 6-24 BI AMP article that the input capacitor to the input buffer is marked as .1uf. But when looking at the board, it looks like that particular capacitor is marked as 10uf. On Nelson's BOM, I don't see a .1uf capacitor.

Is there a typo?? Doesn't seem like a large 10uf blocking cap is needed on the input...

Thanks

+1 I also noticed the same thing. The schematic from Mr. Pass' paper it says 0.1 uf at the input of LF and HF but in the board layout marking it says 10uf. Wonder which one is right ? I"m thinking 0.1 uf is a better choice for DC blocking/bypass at the input not 10uf. It seems a bit too much

Thanks,
Tom
 
This was covered by Roger in Post 202 “Wima MKS 02 with lead spacing 2.5 mm can be maximum 1µF. Not sure if that will be good for the output capacitor. The input impedans of the circuitry following it nned to be high not to cause low frequency roll-off.”
That is, the largest polypropylene drop in replacement for the electrolytic is the MKS 02.
 
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I've got some NOS styrene from 100nF Rifa (pfe216s) that are a bit oversized with long leads and might 'tuck' in - might start with socket pins first - hopefully, the kits will be available soon - very lucky/timely to have this offering as the old LC Audio Xover module is getting a "bit tatty" with all the changes!
 
Regarding input cap on the bi amp board...

I built the Korg pre amp with a 1uf input capacitor...checking the Korg build thread, 1uf would cause a rolloff at around 2hz. In the bi amp input circuit..it looks like the input cap is seeing more impedance of 1meg of resistance...so perhaps .1uf would be sufficient at that position.

I have ordered WIMA fkp 3 .1uf film and foil caps (digikey 1928-1302-ND) to see how they might work.
 
Baffle-step compensation?: Could probably use this kit to address it. I'm sure there is a way to adapt this kit fot it; maybe have to wait for the "advanced guide". My measurements indicate room effects dominate, so taking a "whole room" approach. Once basic (near-field) inter-driver XO-region behavior is improved, I look fwd to using the flexibility of this kit's design to explore other "gremlins" in the whole room response. DSP could do it, but soldering-iron-enabled analog allows me a bite-sized-chunk approach to the problem. This new kit seems to offer a platform that could be the basis for solving issues via experimentation. My order included extra boards which I will use for experimental "adjustments" on particular issues.
What else does one do whilst in "stage 4 Covid lockdown" (cannot travel further than 5km from home for anything other than an emergency)?
Not a religious person, so I just thank all the mythical supreme entities for music & hobbies like Diyaudio!
 
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I am curious to know how people are dealing with baffle step compensation when transitioning from a passive crossover to an active crossover like this one. Are people mostly ignoring it, or is there a trick that I am not aware of?

Thanks

http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_lxmini%20crossover.pdf

You will be able to find more details in the forum here as well.
I am still on MiniDSP, with FIR and IIR filters so I am yet to try it out, but it is a nice and (relatively) fast way to dial in the system. Except that having easy access to that many options could make it take for ever...
 
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