Ok, I am still writing the build and setup instructions for the motor speed controller/tacho which is my priority right now for next few weeks. After that I will post a diagram for you on how to build a nixie display and post some sample arduino code.
That would be amazing. For people who have finished their tacho projects, does the board put off any heat? Is there any worry about enclosing it with little ventilation?
Themcneils when you are asking if the board puts out any heat, are you referring to my motor speed controller/tacho or the nixie display board?
I meant the tachometer setups that people have completed (Arduino + whatever rpm measuring solution they’ve settled on).
OK so the base Arduino and rpm sensor output very little heat - this applies to all implementations. The motor speed controller gets warm (but not hot) as the motor output drive is a class A amplifier.
Can I use your motor speed controller/tacho if i have mains powered motor (230v).
If so, could you write, how it will be handled? (plugs, switches ets. for starting turntable I will turn on controller or turntable?)
If so, could you write, how it will be handled? (plugs, switches ets. for starting turntable I will turn on controller or turntable?)
I've not read all the thread, but this sounds like a great project.
Is the controller suitable for the Garrard 301/401 Motors? I believe these are 4 Pole Induction Type.
Is the controller suitable for the Garrard 301/401 Motors? I believe these are 4 Pole Induction Type.
Gregorjank, most synchronous motors run off 110v even when the turntable is plugged into 240v - there is a resitor/capacitor network to divide the voltage down. Check the label on your motor. If your motor is really 240v the you will need a step up transformer/amplifier as described with Pyamid's SG4. Its probably cheaper to buy a new motor though in the 12v to 110v range.
You wire the motor to the controller. Two ways to switch on: 1. either configure controller to start motor at the application of main power and switch controller on from main turntable switch or 2. Configure a seperate start/45rpm/stop push switch (same as Linn Valhalla etc) - switch is low voltage an can be mounted in a separate enclosure. Mains power direct to controller.
Star Cruiser yes but the 301/401 must be a 110v configuration or you will face same problems as above. A step up transformer/amp will be required. Also max current draw from motor must be <20mA
All, just a progress update. Will have finally finished the instructions this weekend (my new job has been keeping me busier than I expected). A friend in the UK will build one kit as a test to see if there are any changes necessary to the instructions. Then should be ready so New Year is probably about the right timescale for shipping pcbs or kits if all is well.
You wire the motor to the controller. Two ways to switch on: 1. either configure controller to start motor at the application of main power and switch controller on from main turntable switch or 2. Configure a seperate start/45rpm/stop push switch (same as Linn Valhalla etc) - switch is low voltage an can be mounted in a separate enclosure. Mains power direct to controller.
Star Cruiser yes but the 301/401 must be a 110v configuration or you will face same problems as above. A step up transformer/amp will be required. Also max current draw from motor must be <20mA
All, just a progress update. Will have finally finished the instructions this weekend (my new job has been keeping me busier than I expected). A friend in the UK will build one kit as a test to see if there are any changes necessary to the instructions. Then should be ready so New Year is probably about the right timescale for shipping pcbs or kits if all is well.
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There's not really much else to report. A number of us have built working tachs. Start with Pyramid's code updates and work from there.
I think Antsav is asking about Scobham's improvements. I was wondering if there has been any progress on this as well?
Hi yes the board is finished and working. I had someone build a unit from the instructions and that was successfully completed last week. I will open a thread for a group build at the weekend with the various options and post some final pictures of the system in use on my system.
I have posted a group buy option here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gro...meter-motor-speed-controller.html#post6086530
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gro...meter-motor-speed-controller.html#post6086530
OK, color me bored, but I took a look at doing a Nixie tube tach display. Since this is DIY, I tried to keep the parts count down to a minimum, but there are still a lot of transistors involved (23 N chan FETs and 5 P chan). Good news is it doesn't require any obsolete parts like the 74141, everything is currently available via Digikey.
I did two versions: One uses IN12 tubes the other IN16. The IN16 version is a better looking display and facilitates a vertical display, but is much more difficult to solder the tubes. The IN12 version uses sockets, but the "5" is an upside down 2 and just not as pleasant as the IN16 but better suited for mounting to a front panel.
The Nixie display PCB will accept serial data input at 9600 baud from either a RR tach or the Arduino tach via a 3.5mm connection. Since both outputs are not averaged, the Nixie tube display will be "real time" and not subject to the smoothing action of averaging.
One other thing: It requires an Atmel AT89C2051 pre-programmed with the operating system. I thought about using an Arduino, but they only have one level of interrupt, so I don't know if it would even work and the other problem is I would have to release the source code and a particular mfr has already demonstrated that they are not above pirating a DIY project for commercial use, so I won't be releasing any more source code onto this site.
If there is any interest in this as a group buy or DIY project, I can split this off into a separate thread. Let me know if there is any interest in doing this.
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Wow. It works and it looks cool!
I’ve suddenly found myself with some time over the past few weeks so I’ve got my Nixie tach project halfway there, using Arduino. I haven’t figured out the code piece yet, or how to solder that tiny surface mount resistor to the RR sensor board, but I can get my IN-12B tubes to light up and be controlled by the Arduino.
I’m still interested in supporting your build because it’s super that you have already made it work, and reliably to boot. Sign me up.
I’ve suddenly found myself with some time over the past few weeks so I’ve got my Nixie tach project halfway there, using Arduino. I haven’t figured out the code piece yet, or how to solder that tiny surface mount resistor to the RR sensor board, but I can get my IN-12B tubes to light up and be controlled by the Arduino.
I’m still interested in supporting your build because it’s super that you have already made it work, and reliably to boot. Sign me up.
I’m in too. Will love such tachometer. I like nixie tubes and I built several clocks and thermometers. Have several types of nixie tubes in my own stock include some rare US made.
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Would you build the nixie, complete with tubes and all
What would the price be. Shipping to Florida 32725
