Bill, Thank you very much for your kind praise. I'm very proud of my achievement and posted a picture of it on Facebook "I love my VPI turntable" group.
The display I used is a Midas MC21605G12W-VNMLR http://www.newark.com/midas/mc21605g12w-vnmlr/lcd-alpha-num-16-x-2-red/dp/52Y1050 Its a high quality display compared to the common and affordable China made LCD modules that I used during the course of construction and learning all about how it all tick. I was having 2 different displays that seemed similar, 2 different I2C modules that also look the same but they're not, learning what makes it tick and getting them to work. This involved changing hardware parameters in the code and modding the I2C to suit. It all worked out later on.
I didn't use anything on it and just glued the display module to the panel. I've found the display to be quite easy on the eye and have always liked red characters. I had to mod the LCD pin out to piggy back a common I2C module for serial connection for it to work. Its been a great learning curve with no past experience with any Arduino, LCD modules or programming these stuff.
Here's a picture of the innards. I bolted the Arduino to a blank piece of pcb and slide into the enclosure. The DC power and sensor wires are soldered to the underside. I only have to remove the front panel for USB connection if need to program.
The display I used is a Midas MC21605G12W-VNMLR http://www.newark.com/midas/mc21605g12w-vnmlr/lcd-alpha-num-16-x-2-red/dp/52Y1050 Its a high quality display compared to the common and affordable China made LCD modules that I used during the course of construction and learning all about how it all tick. I was having 2 different displays that seemed similar, 2 different I2C modules that also look the same but they're not, learning what makes it tick and getting them to work. This involved changing hardware parameters in the code and modding the I2C to suit. It all worked out later on.
I didn't use anything on it and just glued the display module to the panel. I've found the display to be quite easy on the eye and have always liked red characters. I had to mod the LCD pin out to piggy back a common I2C module for serial connection for it to work. Its been a great learning curve with no past experience with any Arduino, LCD modules or programming these stuff.
Here's a picture of the innards. I bolted the Arduino to a blank piece of pcb and slide into the enclosure. The DC power and sensor wires are soldered to the underside. I only have to remove the front panel for USB connection if need to program.
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I'd buy a better turntable with a more powerful motor and less belt slip.
Hi,
I’m afraid I can not afford buying a better turntable.
I think I have a nice one already, a heavily modified Rega, with a 24 volts motor, better than the original 110 one. Also, I have a three belt pulley from Michael Lim with a machined aluminium subplatter and an acrylic platter, so I think there is little to no belt slip.
Regards,
Jorge
Trying to understand belt creep - would you say it is the function of the (1) pulley design or (2) belt composition/structure (elasticity/rigidity) or (3) something else?
Tension should be relatively easy to implement with a separate motor pod (or a tensioning mechanism such as the one with Artemis), but how would one cure belt creep?
I own a VPI Classic 1 with 20lb platter and stock 10W Hurst Motor, no speed controller.
I experimented with a DIY clear color PU (Polyurethane) belt of the same diameter spliced to the same circumference for experimentation. No creep (hardly noticible if any). Tension and elasticity is different from the original rubber belt. I don't find any significant speed variance between the 2 types expect the slight creep on the rubber belt. I don't find any stylus drag issue. Even if any which I can't see on the tachometer, I'll live with it.
I experimented with a DIY clear color PU (Polyurethane) belt of the same diameter spliced to the same circumference for experimentation. No creep (hardly noticible if any). Tension and elasticity is different from the original rubber belt. I don't find any significant speed variance between the 2 types expect the slight creep on the rubber belt. I don't find any stylus drag issue. Even if any which I can't see on the tachometer, I'll live with it.
Might have missed this - would this mean that the proper way to calibrate for each Arduino (given crystal discrepancies) would be to measure the frequency at this pin and thus set the CALIBRATE const?
There is a good explanation of it Here.
It is a function of torque and belt composition. When the platter is up to speed, the amount of torque being delivered is very low; it increases microscopically with stylus drag, so you see a microscopic decrease in speed.