Yes, I thought about that option. But might be a bit too complicatedUpupa Epops said:2.32 A for 8 W.... really amazing....Why not 5 A, superbiased superclass A quadrat ?
This little amp would consume like 60 Watt to produce 8 Watt.
Could it try to match Nelson Pass First Watt amplifiers?
He uses like 100 Watt to produce 10 Watt output.
A decade ago I did a SE mosfet based amp using a 6SL7 as voltage amp.
It was two stage, with four mosfets per channel. Power supply was 50V, 3A with 22mF-20mH-22mF. Current amp was a P type mosfet with NPN bipolar in CFP hybrid, and current sink was an LED referenced N type. Dissipation was 150W per channel, power was 28W, with 1dB at 15Hz, 75KHz. Output stage distortion was 0.06%, all H2/3. The tube was probably at around 2-3%, since it was a simple plate loaded triode. Zout was 38 milliohms. Energy wastage was horrific. I still feel guilty when I switch it on.
I called it the Glass Harmony, and the interface between the tube and the output stage consumed 18 months of intense R&D. It remains secret. The Glass Harmony sounds like 100 watts up to its limits; grip is very impressive, even with a composite 2000uF coupling cap. Those who have watched my journey over the last decade say it's still the best amp I've done; I don't know, I think the AKSA is better overall because it's more resolving, greater slam and impact, and much more efficient. But I still use it for comparison with all my tube hybrids these days.
When you want it to sound like a tube, you really have to use a tube. Funny, that.
Cheers,
Hugh
It was two stage, with four mosfets per channel. Power supply was 50V, 3A with 22mF-20mH-22mF. Current amp was a P type mosfet with NPN bipolar in CFP hybrid, and current sink was an LED referenced N type. Dissipation was 150W per channel, power was 28W, with 1dB at 15Hz, 75KHz. Output stage distortion was 0.06%, all H2/3. The tube was probably at around 2-3%, since it was a simple plate loaded triode. Zout was 38 milliohms. Energy wastage was horrific. I still feel guilty when I switch it on.
I called it the Glass Harmony, and the interface between the tube and the output stage consumed 18 months of intense R&D. It remains secret. The Glass Harmony sounds like 100 watts up to its limits; grip is very impressive, even with a composite 2000uF coupling cap. Those who have watched my journey over the last decade say it's still the best amp I've done; I don't know, I think the AKSA is better overall because it's more resolving, greater slam and impact, and much more efficient. But I still use it for comparison with all my tube hybrids these days.
When you want it to sound like a tube, you really have to use a tube. Funny, that.
Cheers,
Hugh
Luke,
There's IP in there I don't really want to share in a kit.
Secondly, boards are a complete failure as a business model.
Thirdly, 400 volts are involved which is dangerous in a kit, and potentially litigious.
Fourthly, the four heatsinks required weigh no less than 11 Kgs. This is VERY costly for air freight!
Lastly, who would even consider 1 x 28W with 300W dissipation in a world where efficiency is becoming ever more important?
However, if you have reasons why it should be done, let's hear 'em! Heck, I might be dead wrong!
Cheers,
Hugh
There's IP in there I don't really want to share in a kit.
Secondly, boards are a complete failure as a business model.
Thirdly, 400 volts are involved which is dangerous in a kit, and potentially litigious.
Fourthly, the four heatsinks required weigh no less than 11 Kgs. This is VERY costly for air freight!
Lastly, who would even consider 1 x 28W with 300W dissipation in a world where efficiency is becoming ever more important?
However, if you have reasons why it should be done, let's hear 'em! Heck, I might be dead wrong!
Cheers,
Hugh
lumanauw said:
Read the pdf lionked further up in the thread, it explains things. Intuitively, you can also look at it like this: when the output stage switches off (since it works in class B), there would normally be a 'notch' in the output - but keep in mind that the inductor would tend to keep the output current constant - in order to do so, voltage across it will change, moving the now relatively high impedance coupled emitters node of the current dumper 'acrosss' the class B gap.
lumanauw said:Hi, Ilimzn,
You are right, thanks for the explenation
What about the 120pf, what is the main function of this? For stability or for balancing the 4 bridge leg?
It's bridge balancing. Again, intuitively, it prevents the NFB loop seeing the discontinuity due to sudden gm change and not correcting propperly - this is precisely how the bridge nulls out the nonlinearity - in order for this to work, you must have the L and C components.
Hi Hugh,
I can understand your reasons, but im being selfish of course
I dont leave my amps on all the time, so an hours listening a couple of times a week is not a big deal to me. And I have started using the train to do m bit
I doubt Electricity consumers are the reason for the polar caps melting anyway.
seeya Arthur
I can understand your reasons, but im being selfish of course
I dont leave my amps on all the time, so an hours listening a couple of times a week is not a big deal to me. And I have started using the train to do m bit
I doubt Electricity consumers are the reason for the polar caps melting anyway.
seeya Arthur
But it is not thermostabilized yet
I used the same thermostable schematic (TL431 & emitter follower) like in another my project (SE class A).
Schematic gone more complicated, but the additional components are very cheap...I replaced TL78L15 with a few resistors, two caps 100uF, two BC550C, one shunt regulator TL431...
I used the same thermostable schematic (TL431 & emitter follower) like in another my project (SE class A).
Schematic gone more complicated, but the additional components are very cheap...I replaced TL78L15 with a few resistors, two caps 100uF, two BC550C, one shunt regulator TL431...
carlosfm said:I have a chip power amp on my main system (chock, horror), and it sounds much better to me than many so-called 'high-end' amps, and you can bring some Krells.
If you call my amp a 'GC' I'll smackah u face. (c) Jocko
Chip Amp (doesn't matter wich one) and High-Fidelity are quite different concepts
If you're not able to sense the differencies....
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