Dartzeel amp schematic - build this?

if I'm not mistaken it's a final amp with a pair of power amps per channel.
if I'm not mistaken, power amplifiers placed under the printout.
If you feel like trying, if they are mosfets, to put two pairs per channel: it changes a lot
it also changes from two pairs to four pairs per channel, but not as from 1 to 2
example, from 4 to 8, in my opinion, it is hardly heard, at least in a scheme like the one I posted
 
You are correct,
Using only one pair LMOS as output, sounding is relatively too soft, insipid. But this matter happened with Hitachi/Renesas, Exicon's single die devices.
I also used one pair, but it is dual die devices ECW20N20/ECW20P20. It's two single die device integrated inside package TO-264. That problem is fixed.

Regard,
Cuong Nguyen
 
Someone re-engineered the 458 and he came up with this.

Taking into account the particular method of reverse engineering we can expect a reasonable interpretation, but not a true facsimile. Still, it appears pretty convincing.

There is one particular area which baffles me. The +-5v separate supply for the CCS and the offset compensation. Apparently the sole reason for this additional PS is to reduce the power-on thump. Seems very unlikely the original was designed this way; a separate PS for the entire front end (VAS in this case) would make much more sense.

Any thoughts?
 
this is a revised scheme so that I define excellent.
I think that the input stage with the 2 bjt Q1 and Q2, channel P and N, separated only leads to problems.
idem Q3 and Q4.
I believe that in 2019 there are excellent products to overcome these strange and archaic audiophile habits of testing semiconductors when there are those who do it, and better, at the level of multinationals.
in any case this scheme sounds, in my humble opinion, in an interesting, very interesting way.
very important is the entry cap that colors or not the final result.
low and dynamic range, unfortunately, not exceptional, the rest is very interesting.
In the scheme there are two choices:
the input stage power supply, with zener, simple, and with LM 317, more complicated, but preferable: everyone can choose whether zener is for VCC + or -
or with 317 and 337
NB
ERROR
C 4 = C 5 = 150 picofarad , pardon:)
 

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if instead you want a totally coupled DC power amp, without any compensation, very fast, dynamic and with a first-class low range, here is an ad hoc scheme:
a revisiting of Goldmund, Norma and Spectral, all derived or copied from the Hitachi book, just revised and adjusted by each, but nothing unnatural:
this scheme revises and adjusts for the year 2019, the 3 derived from the Hitachi book and adds something from Otala, not bad
 

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pardon , R 2 = R 6 = 510 Kohm
it seems that it does not affect.
I could say that I listened to the stabilizer with the zener and with the 317, but I would say a nonsense to which nobody would believe :D .
317 or 7815 especially to avoid the zener that I just can't stand
the PCB gets messed up, though
 
Thanks.

I have no trouble believing that a regulator sounds better in that spot.

What are you using for regulating the 60v supply?

Not sure i understand the need for the shottky diodes in the supply rails when the supply is separate from the outputs and regulated. Ditto for the additional diodes for the input and biasing. Care to explain?
 
Thanks.

I have no trouble believing that a regulator sounds better in that spot.

What are you using for regulating the 60v supply?

Not sure i understand the need for the shottky diodes in the supply rails when the supply is separate from the outputs and regulated. Ditto for the additional diodes for the input and biasing. Care to explain?

the stabilized power supply of IN and DRIVER provides the Skottky diode downstream of the drivers and pre-drivers before the IN power supplies with the two chips because Q 9, 10, 11, 12 are final power transistors equal to the final ones, they heat and must polarize and pilot the finals of the power amplifiers WELL.
The different absorption I always fear may create problems at the delicate entry stage with those chips.
you could eliminate the diode just before the drivers, but, I wouldn't know whether to delete it or put it changes something, I admit

The diodes between power supply and output antiilektregertikes forces protect the speakers.
The between powering the final power stage and output
antiilektregertikes forces protect the loudspeakers.
 
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it is from aliexpress

Congratulations. This amounts to previously unseen quantity of spam in this thread.

They offer 30-day money back guarantee. Of course it is possible it is fraud, but that's why I formulated the question. If it is a fraud, I do not know. All I know is what I copy/pasted. There are some numbers specified. Are these numbers commensurate with the price? How much these numbers deviate from the originals?
 
What do you think about these amps:


Sound style:
Thick and powerful low frequency, mild magnetic medium frequency, magnificent high frequency.

if you approached me I would say that I think nothing.
the dartzeel clone is offered in 4 versions, same board, but different power supplies, from € 600 to € 4900, two nonsense.
The card looks identical to the original, that of the € 38,000 final! ! !
I allow myself to write that the original ending MAY appear - filled - with cap Vishay perhaps to justify the cost.
It is up to the customer to understand if it makes sense to pay € 38K for 2 pairs of final transistors.
My experience says that if one wants to listen well, one plays at home without fainting, one has to make one's own chain or approach DIY.
But also to approach the DIY must understand
 
96dB

if you approached me I would say that I think nothing.
the dartzeel clone is offered in 4 versions, same board, but different power supplies, from € 600 to € 4900, two nonsense.
The card looks identical to the original, that of the € 38,000 final! ! !
I allow myself to write that the original ending MAY appear - filled - with cap Vishay perhaps to justify the cost.
It is up to the customer to understand if it makes sense to pay € 38K for 2 pairs of final transistors.
My experience says that if one wants to listen well, one plays at home without fainting, one has to make one's own chain or approach DIY.
But also to approach the DIY must understand


I worry about this number: Signal to noise ratio: >96dB, A weighting, standard power

I do not think the original had such a low rating for the money (probably it had 115dB or even more)
 
Beautiful numbers for FM

interesting question.
but, today, 2019, do the originals exist?


I am looking this FM711 Mk2 and just check on the web site and it seems it is not offered any more

Flagship version:
FM Original Toroidal transformer
German Original WBT 0735 Speaker Cable Wire Connector
Norwegian Original SOUNDCARE foot nails
Technical parameters:
Frequency response: 1Hz-60KHz (it doesn't provide +1 dB)
SNR: 110dB
Distortion: 0.005% THD
Input impedance: 40K ohms
Output power: 260W x 2 @8Ω; 500W x 2@4Ω; 800W x 2@2Ω
Input interface: XLR (one set)
Size: 450*450*220mm
Net weight: 30KG