Fantastic! Thank you.
Yes, I know that the jumper pins need to be added, but thank you for the verification. Happy to take this one step at a time.
Question... all of the 100uF caps on the PCB are as far as I can tell, PSU decoupling. Making them bigger would make no practical difference... I'm very thin on 100uF, but have plenty of 220uF that fit the spacing and outline. Any caveat before I do that?
Yes, I know that the jumper pins need to be added, but thank you for the verification. Happy to take this one step at a time.
Question... all of the 100uF caps on the PCB are as far as I can tell, PSU decoupling. Making them bigger would make no practical difference... I'm very thin on 100uF, but have plenty of 220uF that fit the spacing and outline. Any caveat before I do that?
Jim,
Did you install the caps around the DIP8 on the top of the board or below? Below allows easier access to the chip for rolling and room for discrete opamps like Burson,
Did you install the caps around the DIP8 on the top of the board or below? Below allows easier access to the chip for rolling and room for discrete opamps like Burson,
On top. I need the PCB as close to the chassis as possible as it’s going into a short chassis.
Solder doesn't have to go trough hole all the way to make a good connection, so all is good as far as i see 🙂 As for opamp, since caps are on top, my suggestion is go for opa1655 as diyiggy said, really shines on nos dacs and tested, not oscilating at all, decoupling is good enough for it.
Good call Brijac, for stock onboard I/V duty the OPA1655 was my choice also.
Everything you need is in the first post. And i think it may be cheaper to produce on jlcpcb, rather than someone send you a pcb.
Somebody needs to catalog all the post numbers with the various boards... could put it all in top post. This is an unwieldily thread.