ahaha, and now we all sing in small suit almost nude on the beach with flowers : "RTFT" ! lalalllaallllaa !
🙂
@diyiggy
Please take this opportunity to review the rules. https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diyaudio-rules.167561/#post-2199797
Please take this opportunity to review the rules. https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diyaudio-rules.167561/#post-2199797
Just à joke... zero attack. 😉
just a repition old joke here.
Okay, I'm coming back to my Rega 3 !
just a repition old joke here.
Okay, I'm coming back to my Rega 3 !
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For those who make Miro DAC with PCM56, I tried a bunch of OPAs, and the best one is the OPA1641A. Why I like it the most, I'm not entirely sure, but it sounds the most convincing of all the OPAs.
As for my attempt to improve the sound by adding an IRF510 mosfet source follower to the I/V stage, I can say that it failed. Maybe the concept itself is not bad, but there are too many connectors, OPA bases and wires, which negatively affects the sound. It's meant to be easy to add and remove, and it is, but it doesn't sound that good. It adds bass, softens the sound too much and I miss some nice details in the music, which I know are there.
The next step is to remove the PCM56 board from the DAC and insert the AD1862 board. That's the last one, I won't do it anymore. 😎
As for my attempt to improve the sound by adding an IRF510 mosfet source follower to the I/V stage, I can say that it failed. Maybe the concept itself is not bad, but there are too many connectors, OPA bases and wires, which negatively affects the sound. It's meant to be easy to add and remove, and it is, but it doesn't sound that good. It adds bass, softens the sound too much and I miss some nice details in the music, which I know are there.
The next step is to remove the PCM56 board from the DAC and insert the AD1862 board. That's the last one, I won't do it anymore. 😎
Curious to see what you think, in my order of preference the PCM56 is number three, Ad1862 is second, TDA1541A first.
I still need to try AD1862, probably this week. I don't have TDA1541A, so I can't say anything. For now PCM63 and PCM1794A (DDDAC) are on top for me.
Realistically for the price, the PCM56 and AD1865 are a real surprise.
If listening only to a CD player, take the PCM56 and the AK4113 or AK4118 SPDIF receiver with I2S output and you have an outstanding audio device for little money. Some of the cheap DVD players, Pioneer DV300, DV393, DV600, DV610 and similar can also be used as transport, with or without Lampizator mod on SPDIF output.
The USB input can be added to the I2S input of the AK4113/4118, in the form of a cheap Chinese Amanero copy, it will work great. And one can only take PCM56 + Amanero USB/I2S for USB only DAC.
Realistically for the price, the PCM56 and AD1865 are a real surprise.
If listening only to a CD player, take the PCM56 and the AK4113 or AK4118 SPDIF receiver with I2S output and you have an outstanding audio device for little money. Some of the cheap DVD players, Pioneer DV300, DV393, DV600, DV610 and similar can also be used as transport, with or without Lampizator mod on SPDIF output.
The USB input can be added to the I2S input of the AK4113/4118, in the form of a cheap Chinese Amanero copy, it will work great. And one can only take PCM56 + Amanero USB/I2S for USB only DAC.
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try to try the oap16555 on Vunce's DIL to soic adaptator, the red thing on this picture on Miro's pcb when you will try the ad1862 : https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...st-tht-i2s-input-nos-r-2r.354078/post-7032234
The trick is to avoid the black plastic DIL 8 socket because they make the ground to far from the chip for some fast operational amplifier. the red pcb is just pluged on the pcb vias for listening test purpose.
On the test, one resistor is a must and a good combo with Pan FC and cost nothing (Mouser, etc) vishay CPF2 wirewound
The trick is to avoid the black plastic DIL 8 socket because they make the ground to far from the chip for some fast operational amplifier. the red pcb is just pluged on the pcb vias for listening test purpose.
On the test, one resistor is a must and a good combo with Pan FC and cost nothing (Mouser, etc) vishay CPF2 wirewound
sorry it is the Mouser 594-AC01W1K500J -still a Vishay but green body- .... I have the memory of a frog !
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Yes, look at the post above yours. https://www.vishay.com/docs/28730/ac_ac-at_ac-ni.pdf , so not the cpf2 I found good but this green wirewound which is a step or two better here in my tests. Sorry for the confusion. Read the link.
Did. Will try them - I have used CPF3 for some other purposes as Anode resistors but these wirewounds interests me, for I/V and some other connections.
Thanks !
If you can find the Rohpoint in the value you need, it is also a keeper, but the "green" Vishay is the one to go for aviability. Although I wrote my feeling in case one's systeme may need some subjective attributes others resistors have. It's indeed always the sum of all, one's is hearing.
It fired right up! Very nice!
MC78xx/79xxPSU in "ideal" configuration, where the ideal is being pieces I had on hand and short enough to fit in 1U chassis. Quiet and clean, I may replace the 50A fuses with an additional RC stage. Still need to measure and stuff good snubber values. (Quasimodo the rescue.)
Looking forward to seeing what it really sounds like, but so far so good!
MC78xx/79xxPSU in "ideal" configuration, where the ideal is being pieces I had on hand and short enough to fit in 1U chassis. Quiet and clean, I may replace the 50A fuses with an additional RC stage. Still need to measure and stuff good snubber values. (Quasimodo the rescue.)
Looking forward to seeing what it really sounds like, but so far so good!
I think your going to like it. My wife mentioned she can actually listen to CD's all day now, she couldn't before. After about 30 minutes she was done.
Raspberry Pi using GPIO, Wiim Pro's A98 module with i2s from a custom adapter PCB