Ok as long as the Reset disable fuse is not set on the Attiny you can ISP/SPI program it.
I updated the fuse bytes on the readme. If you use those fuse bytes you can use ISP or HVSP.
If your Attiny85 already had it's FUSE set with Reset disabled you will need to use HVSP to reprogram the FUSE bytes. Then you can use ISP.
Cheers!
Russ
I updated the fuse bytes on the readme. If you use those fuse bytes you can use ISP or HVSP.
If your Attiny85 already had it's FUSE set with Reset disabled you will need to use HVSP to reprogram the FUSE bytes. Then you can use ISP.
Cheers!
Russ
It won`t work with avrdude and ftdi. It gives an no pthread support error.
I`ll just need to find another way to program it.
I`ll just need to find another way to program it.
If you are using windows try this:
Avrdude on Windows : Long time after WinAVR
Also note - you may either need a new Attiny85 (They cost about $2) or - you can use an HVSP programmer to reprogram the Fuses to make SPI availble. The Attiny85 come from the factory ready to be programmed ISP - but we program ours with HVSP so you may not be able to reprogram them with ISP until you reset the fuses to the ones on the Readme.
Avrdude on Windows : Long time after WinAVR
Also note - you may either need a new Attiny85 (They cost about $2) or - you can use an HVSP programmer to reprogram the Fuses to make SPI availble. The Attiny85 come from the factory ready to be programmed ISP - but we program ours with HVSP so you may not be able to reprogram them with ISP until you reset the fuses to the ones on the Readme.
Also I use one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-40-pin-ZIF-socket-ADA383/dp/B00SK6928C
And one of these (when I am not using my Dragon which is better):
https://www.pololu.com/product/3170
They both work great.
http://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-40-pin-ZIF-socket-ADA383/dp/B00SK6928C
And one of these (when I am not using my Dragon which is better):
https://www.pololu.com/product/3170
They both work great.
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In the meantime a new 45.1584mhz Crystek vcxo arrived.
After replacing the old part with the new one the dac still gives the same problem.
After replacing the old part with the new one the dac still gives the same problem.
You won't be able to run sync mode correctly without powering up Cronus prior to your controller until you use my new firmware, or implementing the same techniques yourself.
I just ordered another attiny85. Will let you know how it works as soon as I'll get it programmed.
The new firmware works only for sync or async too?
The new firmware works only for sync or async too?
Bad news here...
Today I powered my dac but it won't lock to any input signal.
All trident output voltages are ok and also input signals.
The mute led remains always on.
Do you think this is related to the problems had before and maybe what we saw was a damaged chip?
Today I powered my dac but it won't lock to any input signal.
All trident output voltages are ok and also input signals.
The mute led remains always on.
Do you think this is related to the problems had before and maybe what we saw was a damaged chip?
I`ve connected to cronus another dac, a dual mono pcm1794 and it works perfectly.
Today arrived the attinys I have ordered some time ago but it looks they are useless for now.
Today arrived the attinys I have ordered some time ago but it looks they are useless for now.
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Seems that the onboard b3 input switches for i2s/spdif are dead.
I tested only the ones that pass i2s signals because I have only an i2s source.
After desoldering them and placing a wire jumper in place of every chip(only those for i2s) everything turned to normal and the dac plays music.
Are these switches a must if I only use i2s input? They do as buffers also?
I tested only the ones that pass i2s signals because I have only an i2s source.
After desoldering them and placing a wire jumper in place of every chip(only those for i2s) everything turned to normal and the dac plays music.
Are these switches a must if I only use i2s input? They do as buffers also?
Schulz your symptoms would indicate a problem with your DAC (damage) nothing to do with the cronus. I can only suggest repair or replace.
Received my Cronus/Rhea/Hermes/Amanero kit yesterday. Plan to integrate with my Buffalo II for stereo only use. Searching the threads, seems like I only need to populate R5, R6 and R7 with the supplied 33 ohm resistors. Is this correct?
Would also really appreciate explanation what these resistors are for and how to configure them.
Thanks!
Correct.
They are there to link i2s signals to the output headers.
Using resistors instead of bare wire is a good practice with fast square signals.
And they are not factory mount to allow custom routing, just in case.
They are there to link i2s signals to the output headers.
Using resistors instead of bare wire is a good practice with fast square signals.
And they are not factory mount to allow custom routing, just in case.
I assembled my Cronus/Rhea/Hermes/Amanero module and hooked up to my Buffalo II. I use iTune on my Mac BookPro for source. I am running OS X 10.7.5.
At first my Mac would not detect the Amanero. I had to go into the Settings to switch the output to it. But I am getting no sound from my Buffalo.
The Cronus is powered by the same Placid HD that powers the Buffalo DAC. I increased the shunt current to for the Cronus. I set my Buffalo's SPDIF switch to OFF and jumper the J1:2. The i2s cables are equal lehgth and just under 10cm in length.
Where should I start debugging my problem?
Thanks!
At first my Mac would not detect the Amanero. I had to go into the Settings to switch the output to it. But I am getting no sound from my Buffalo.
The Cronus is powered by the same Placid HD that powers the Buffalo DAC. I increased the shunt current to for the Cronus. I set my Buffalo's SPDIF switch to OFF and jumper the J1:2. The i2s cables are equal lehgth and just under 10cm in length.
Where should I start debugging my problem?
Thanks!
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