Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. I hope yours shows up in better condition than mine. It arrived with rattling sound. I looked inside and could see that an electrolytic cap broke free and was rolling around. I took it apart and the poor quality of the soldering job and lack of mechanical stabilization for the parts (RTV or potting adhesive) allowed the parts to break free during transport. It's a very flimsy design. Anyhow, I promptly returned it and am using these:
Amazon.com: SUPERNIGHT AC 100-240V To DC 24V 5A 5.5x2.1mm DC Output Jack Power Supply Converter Adapter for Led Light Strips: Computers & Accessories
Very happy with them and no line voltage to deal with but they are bricks and dangle on the outside.
Hi
sorry for that I don't have any pictures of this, but here is my measurements, of the
"TPA3118 PBTL mono digital amplifier board 1X60W 12V 24V" :
(with gain R27-resistor removed, because of noice in speaker when normal gain)
-------
Line in: 2v (just before clipping)
Vcc: 23v (about)
resistor: 8ohm
out: 20v
(smoking HOT after about 30 seconds !!)
[ [20/(scr(2)] ^2 ] / 8 = 25w
_ _ _ _
Line in: 1,5v (about) (just before clipping)
Vcc: 23v (about)
resistor: 4,4 ohm
out: 16v
(smoking HOT after 30 seconds!!!, verry verry hot!!)
[ [16/(scr(2)] ^2 ] / 4,4 = 29,1w
_ _ _ _
Line in: 1,02v (just before clipping)
Vcc: 11,5v (about)
resistor: 4,4ohm
out: 8,8v
(not hot after 30 seconds)
[ [8,8/(scr(2)] ^2 ] / 4,4 = 8,8w
_ _ _ _
Can I cool this with a "ready solution" for the coling??
any ideas for a functional solution ?
sorry for that I don't have any pictures of this, but here is my measurements, of the
"TPA3118 PBTL mono digital amplifier board 1X60W 12V 24V" :
(with gain R27-resistor removed, because of noice in speaker when normal gain)
-------
Line in: 2v (just before clipping)
Vcc: 23v (about)
resistor: 8ohm
out: 20v
(smoking HOT after about 30 seconds !!)
[ [20/(scr(2)] ^2 ] / 8 = 25w
_ _ _ _
Line in: 1,5v (about) (just before clipping)
Vcc: 23v (about)
resistor: 4,4 ohm
out: 16v
(smoking HOT after 30 seconds!!!, verry verry hot!!)
[ [16/(scr(2)] ^2 ] / 4,4 = 29,1w
_ _ _ _
Line in: 1,02v (just before clipping)
Vcc: 11,5v (about)
resistor: 4,4ohm
out: 8,8v
(not hot after 30 seconds)
[ [8,8/(scr(2)] ^2 ] / 4,4 = 8,8w
_ _ _ _
Can I cool this with a "ready solution" for the coling??
any ideas for a functional solution ?
(with gain R27-resistor removed, because of noice in speaker when normal gain, this give me ~20db instead of 32db gain.)
Is the circuit board just as hot on the side opposite of the IC?
Are the inductors hot at all?
A possible combo...
Always on the lookout for the good sound, and being happy with the TPA3118 sanwu boards, I made another set of monoblocks (with separate power supplies, 19V each), this time paired with another tube preamp.
This one is supposedly a copy of Musical Fidelity X10-D, nicely made.
So, a few days later, here is the finished result. The sound is very nice - the tube preamp seems to "smear" the sound in all the right places 🙂
I noticed that a tube preams sometimes helps with some of Class D amps, "taming" the occasional harshness in the upper registers.
Well, to each his/her own, but for me these sanwu boards sound OK even without the tube preamp... But, it adds a nice touch 🙂
In short, nothing lacking, and it can drive even rather demanding speakers up to respectable levels (not the dancehall levels, but still way louder than normal home listening...).
Always on the lookout for the good sound, and being happy with the TPA3118 sanwu boards, I made another set of monoblocks (with separate power supplies, 19V each), this time paired with another tube preamp.
This one is supposedly a copy of Musical Fidelity X10-D, nicely made.
So, a few days later, here is the finished result. The sound is very nice - the tube preamp seems to "smear" the sound in all the right places 🙂
I noticed that a tube preams sometimes helps with some of Class D amps, "taming" the occasional harshness in the upper registers.
Well, to each his/her own, but for me these sanwu boards sound OK even without the tube preamp... But, it adds a nice touch 🙂
In short, nothing lacking, and it can drive even rather demanding speakers up to respectable levels (not the dancehall levels, but still way louder than normal home listening...).
Attachments
I wonder how close to 24v those bricks are, that are in the $15 range and below. and how tolerant are the amp chips of running at their max voltage?
I kind of like running things a little -below- their ratings, just for extra safety margin and headroom. if the voltage regulation in a 12 or 18v brick varies a bit, I'm still well under the 24 or so volts that the module has as its max. the 18/19 style laptop brick seems like it gets close enough to the 24 figure, its more than 12v and yet its still safely below 24 by enough to feel pretty safe about it.
wonder if people have thought about that and chosen the laptop 18/19v style vs the 24v style for that reason?
just from running these modules a few weeks, 12v is even enough for me, to fully fill any room in my house with good sound. 18v would be just for extra peaks, I guess. not sure I'm in any need to ditch my 12v standard yet, though.
I kind of like running things a little -below- their ratings, just for extra safety margin and headroom. if the voltage regulation in a 12 or 18v brick varies a bit, I'm still well under the 24 or so volts that the module has as its max. the 18/19 style laptop brick seems like it gets close enough to the 24 figure, its more than 12v and yet its still safely below 24 by enough to feel pretty safe about it.
wonder if people have thought about that and chosen the laptop 18/19v style vs the 24v style for that reason?
just from running these modules a few weeks, 12v is even enough for me, to fully fill any room in my house with good sound. 18v would be just for extra peaks, I guess. not sure I'm in any need to ditch my 12v standard yet, though.
I like the wooden end panels. I grew up with hifi gear having that style and kind of wish it would return.
Same here, I use 18/19V bricks for precisely the same reason: safety margin, plus less cooling needed.
Also, many people here reported that the most popular TPA3116 boards sound best around 19-20V, so that's a plus 🙂
Although I must confess that they work just fine at 12V - haven't really noticed any "degradation" of sound as compared to 19V. I don't play my amplifiers to the max, though 🙂
Are we still talking about TPA3116D2?
If so (to my knowledge):
If so (to my knowledge):
- the max absolute voltage is 30V, and normal working range max voltage is 26V (it takes 26V PSU, no problem).
- switching power supplies don't exceed they voltage without load, unlike unregulated ones - a 24V PSU will provide just that, not 24.6V, not 25.4V... just 24,0V (give or take something for tolerance 🙄 )
- if you don't need too much output power, is better to keep lower PSU voltage, but be sure you are in low distortion avenue. Higher distortion levels (>1%) start to make there damage to your speakers and your ears. It's better to have 1-2W more dissipation and have the amp/speakers/ears in the confort zone.
3116 and 3118 are same chip - 3118 just has its heat sink power pad facing down to the PCB. I think these chips sound great at 24v and that gives plenty of headroom to reach max power levels if needed.
I was really hoping to avoid having external bricks. This amp will be going in a closet and be used to power ceiling speakers in the kitchen and back porch. Since it will be out of sight, i'm looking to have an internal power supply so that I can place a z-wave module between the power inlet and the psu so I can turn the amp on and off remotely via my home automation.
I am ultimately going to have 4 of the mono-blocks hooked up when all is said and done (2 for kitchen, 2 for back porch). I would prefer not to have 2 power supplies (one for each room). Is there away to avoid the hum some people have mentioned?
status of my latest attempt (2 new modules). I bought 2 from a different US seller, both at the same time. I noticed the coils look different from each other, one has a blue ring and the other is more square. what I failed to notice is that the gain (etc) resistors are not the same on both boards ;( too much work to have to fix it, so I now have to deal with the seller. sigh.
I tried a single psu and it went very badly. just 2 channels, parallel the psu wires and power it on. lots of clicking and the woofers would go in and out. I've read about that but this bootstrapping problem happend to me, now. when I went with 2 psu bricks and no common ground, things are back to working again.
one amp is still lounder than the other due to this seller's mix/match policy. damn. it seems you may have to buy many of these, then hand pick them to make sure they all match. what a huge ******* drag. I hate ebay sellers who are just flippers. they could care less what they stock and sell and they often don't know a thing about their goods, either.
I tried a single psu and it went very badly. just 2 channels, parallel the psu wires and power it on. lots of clicking and the woofers would go in and out. I've read about that but this bootstrapping problem happend to me, now. when I went with 2 psu bricks and no common ground, things are back to working again.
one amp is still lounder than the other due to this seller's mix/match policy. damn. it seems you may have to buy many of these, then hand pick them to make sure they all match. what a huge ******* drag. I hate ebay sellers who are just flippers. they could care less what they stock and sell and they often don't know a thing about their goods, either.
den_hr: I always admired your unique little builds! Do you have a link to the tube preamp you used? I have a YJ 3 tube that makes these TPA amps sound better to my ears, but you are correct, the Sanwu boards sound fine just as they come.
Your build were my inspiration to copy you great work. (see link below)
I am having good luck with the 24V PS that Jensen567 talked about in this thread. I changed the caps to better ones as suggested, and it runs cools with no hiss or hum.
I have used it with the Sanwu boards running 2 at 24V on one PS for all day sessions with no issues.
Heres a link to a build where I used the PS: Folsom's great little 7297 Chip Amp
I too like the wooden end panels so I incorporated one into my TDA7297 (Folsom) build.
well, going to try 2 more:
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Adapter-Industrial-Switching/dp/B00RUUSKS2
not overly expensive, gets good reviews, has that oh-so-coveted 24v (lol) and definitely specs out at good current level. we'll see how it sounds and tests when I get 2 of those on friday. still going full mono since its just simpler that way.
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Adapter-Industrial-Switching/dp/B00RUUSKS2
not overly expensive, gets good reviews, has that oh-so-coveted 24v (lol) and definitely specs out at good current level. we'll see how it sounds and tests when I get 2 of those on friday. still going full mono since its just simpler that way.
That looks really similar, though not exactly the same, as the 24v PSU Lacro/Jensen567 mentioned above. Here's an ebay link, title is "AC Converter 110v 220v to 24V MAX 9A 150W Regulated Transformer Power Supply", seller ele888fun. Only USD 10.88 if you don't mind waiting on shipping from China. I have one of these too, though I haven't had a chance to play with it yet. (One thing I will say, mine stinks, as in literally, has some weird and unusually powerful odor to it; haven't had a chance to try to clean it off yet.)
In the pics, the Amazon one is labeled "XK-2412DC". The ebay one is "WX-2416DC".
If you don't mind waiting, the same board from China is a lot less $
This is one I have; it's the big brother to the one you are getting (9A, 150W). They are both from same mfg.
already placed the amazon order. if they suck, they go back. if they are defective, they go back. china is not worth the hassle when its a few dollars.
Nice build you did there...
The tube preamp I'm using is this one:
6J1 Valve Tube Pre Amp Amplifier Board Bass on Musical Fidelity x10 D Circuit | eBay
- supposedly based on X10-D Musical Fidelity... Actually, not bad at all. Components are OK, soldering is OK, so no complaints... We'll see when I try some other equivalent Russian tubes if there is any improvement - but it sounds OK as it is, anyway.