I’m terrible at soldering. My hands jitter and I’m lucky not to have solder bridges everywhere. Those little transistor leads really challenge me. And no, I didnt know I could stick the tip of my desoldering pump right on the iron if necessary.
Here's my process:
First I secure the board vertically in a vise. For resistors, I clamp a topside lead with a hemostat, apply pulling tension with my hand, apply the iron to bottom side of the pad and gently pry the component lead out of the hole with finger pressure. Repeat with the other lead.
I only use the solder sucker to clean out the hole after the wire is removed by applying it perpendicular and tight to one side of the board, with the iron on the other side. Works every time. Sucking the solder before pulling the lead just means there is no solder to transfer iron heat to the entire pad, creating an situation where the board gets burned.
Radial electrolytics and some transistors need their leads "walked" out of their holes, each lead a bit at a time. If you want to save a sensitive transistor or diode, you can use a heat sink clamp on the top side between the component body and the PCB while walking the lead out of the hole.
First I secure the board vertically in a vise. For resistors, I clamp a topside lead with a hemostat, apply pulling tension with my hand, apply the iron to bottom side of the pad and gently pry the component lead out of the hole with finger pressure. Repeat with the other lead.
I only use the solder sucker to clean out the hole after the wire is removed by applying it perpendicular and tight to one side of the board, with the iron on the other side. Works every time. Sucking the solder before pulling the lead just means there is no solder to transfer iron heat to the entire pad, creating an situation where the board gets burned.
Radial electrolytics and some transistors need their leads "walked" out of their holes, each lead a bit at a time. If you want to save a sensitive transistor or diode, you can use a heat sink clamp on the top side between the component body and the PCB while walking the lead out of the hole.
Jumping off from avdesignguru's process,
I've found that using the posts of the PCB vise to stabilize my hands while soldering helps a lot, i lightly rest the heel of my palm on each post as i apply heat and solder. (I use this one: 17010 Aven | Mouser)
I've found that using the posts of the PCB vise to stabilize my hands while soldering helps a lot, i lightly rest the heel of my palm on each post as i apply heat and solder. (I use this one: 17010 Aven | Mouser)
Premium Blue Desoldering Pump Solder Sucker from ubld.it Electronics on Tindie
You want this huge one, it moves a lot of air.
Also, people new to desoldering don't realize that you need to keep the iron on the joint at the same time as the sucker. If you remove the iron before placing the sucker the solder will freeze. The tips are made from Teflon for a reason...
I use that one too and if it's done right, the component will fall off the board.
Just a heads up... on the big blue solder sucker there are two versions out there, one that thumps you in the noggin if you're not careful and one that doesn't. Don't cozy up with one without knowing which you got.
I must not be doing it right. Components have never just fallen off the board. It's always been a struggle for me. 😱
I chose a 1U Galaxy chassis (40mm internal height), so after 30mm-tall caps and 3/16-inch standoffs plus the PCB, I’ve got maybe 3mm clearance to the underside of the top cover (steel). I suppose plopping something down on top could flex the cover and make contact. Would a strip of electrical tape on the underside above the caps be enough to prevent any grounding? Maybe a plastic post anchored dead center? Or is anything necessary? I read that the cap exteriors have a charge.
@jfuquay
Back in the day I used 3mil drafting mylar (I worked in an architects' office) secured with double-sided tape... just to be safe.
Today, I might use some foam tape.
Back in the day I used 3mil drafting mylar (I worked in an architects' office) secured with double-sided tape... just to be safe.
Today, I might use some foam tape.
Kapton tape on the top surface of the caps, plus Kapton tape on the bottom surface of the chassis ceiling.
It’s always something. Started wiring today and realized I don’t have anything to make a TT grounding post for the back of the preamp. Hate to just slap a screw and nuts on it. Anything at P-E?
There is this plastic-bodied one: Parts Express Binding Post Banana Jack Black
or something like this from their house brand: Dayton Audio BPA-38NI HD Binding Post Banana Jack Pair Nickel
I got tempted when 6L6 mentioned it and splurged on this one: Cardas Connector ACBP-S Cardas Ground Post
or something like this from their house brand: Dayton Audio BPA-38NI HD Binding Post Banana Jack Pair Nickel
I got tempted when 6L6 mentioned it and splurged on this one: Cardas Connector ACBP-S Cardas Ground Post
If you are buying from Mouser, I used this one:
111-2223-001 Johnson / Cinch Connectivity Solutions | Mouser
111-2223-001 Johnson / Cinch Connectivity Solutions | Mouser
It’s always something apart 2: I have a switch on the power supply but had also planned a nice blue LED push button switch on the front of the Pearl 2. But as I grabbed the wires, I realized I don’t have a neutral and live to chose from, I have a + and a (-) to choose from, and that doesn’t work with a regular switch, right? I had a simple rocker switch to experiment with, and the PCBs both come on even + or - is interrupted. Shoulda thought of that.
Ideas?
Ideas?
Just received my boards.
Looking through the threads I did not find a BOM.
Thought I would get something with the bords.
Looking through the threads I did not find a BOM.
Thought I would get something with the bords.
The parts list on the Passdiy webpage is corrupted but the pdf has Wayne's parts list:
https://www.passdiy.com/pdf/PEARL 2.pdf
It's not a complete BOM, but does have some part recommendations that are sized for the pcb.