It is the original Pass Pearl boards.
I am actually changing out a lot of components, this is going to be close to no expense spared.
Most folks will think it is a waste of money but that is where my “I really do not care what folks think” comes in handy. Most everyone’s builds are different and so will mine🙂
I am actually changing out a lot of components, this is going to be close to no expense spared.
Most folks will think it is a waste of money but that is where my “I really do not care what folks think” comes in handy. Most everyone’s builds are different and so will mine🙂
Was taking some caps out to put different ones in and the top side pad lifted, I hate when that crap happens.
Any good thoughts on getting in back on to stay?
Use a lower temperature on your soldering station.
exojam, I would have though it would have been easier to build a new set of boards with top quality parts. Then you would have a standard unit to evaluate the new one to, You could then sell off the old one. Cheers
Did not feel like spending another 200 bucks on boards.
Just as easy to remove the components that are going and replacing them with better quality ones.
Use a lower temperature on your soldering station.
I always have my Hakko set at 350 and has always worked for all of my projects.
Problem here was the solder wick did miss a hair on the cap leg and it took off the pad.
Looking at the pad and into the circuit board hole I am not even sure how it was held in since it dang sure did not look like a normal plated through barrel to me.
Did not feel like spending another 200 bucks on boards.
I'd be willing to bet if you emailed Barbara or Sherilyn at PassDIY and explained your situation they would sell you just a board.
They're really nice people over there. It wouldn't hurt to ask.
Years ago when I upgraded a Fisher 400B I received a great recommendation for tight spots. It was to leave the original part's lead and solder the new part to it. This might have helped avoid lifting the pad in this situation.
I'd be willing to bet if you emailed Barbara or Sherilyn at PassDIY and explained your situation they would sell you just a board.
They're really nice people over there. It wouldn't hurt to ask.
WBS,
I got my Pearl 2 boards when they first came out and there was a mistake in pricing. Instead of 200 dollars for two boards they were marked as 100 dollars for both. I placed my order and when they caught it (I do not think anyone who purchased at that price knew of the mistake) Mr. Pass honored that price.
So in a nut shell I would not feel comfortable asking for anything special.
As for the pad, just bad luck on that one. I am fully confident I can restock the boards the boards with no further issues.
Thank you for the suggestions though.
Did not feel like spending another 200 bucks on boards.
Just as easy to remove the components that are going and replacing them with better quality ones.
The gerbers are there free to download -- it's a two layer board.
The gerbers are there free to download -- it's a two layer board.
Jackinni,
To be honest, I have seen that name “gerbers” but am ignorant on how they work or to be used.
I will have to do some research on them.
The gerbers are there free to download -- it's a two layer board.
I keep hearing that but have never been able to find them. This isn’t the same as the B1 buffer circuit is it?
"Gerber" is the generic name for a set of computer files created by "CAD" (Computer Aided Design) software. It's the exact format that most PCB fabrication houses demand.
For amusement purposes only, here are the Gerber files for "Cheapomodo Rev 3" which is a PCBoard I am sure you don't care anything about. Nevertheless you can browse through the .zip archive and see what the file names look like, and peek inside the files themselves (don't worry, they're all ASCII text and can be read by Notepad).
_
For amusement purposes only, here are the Gerber files for "Cheapomodo Rev 3" which is a PCBoard I am sure you don't care anything about. Nevertheless you can browse through the .zip archive and see what the file names look like, and peek inside the files themselves (don't worry, they're all ASCII text and can be read by Notepad).
_
Attachments
The gerbers are there free to download -- it's a two layer board.
So once again, every time I ask about this, the response is... crickets...
The gerbers aren't there, at least that I can find. The link used to be to the B1 gerbers, and the B1 isn't the Pearl 2.
Clarification? PM me if you must...
Pars,
I searched all over the passdiy site and I could not find them either. Maybe there is a secret decoder ring you must have to find them.
I searched all over the passdiy site and I could not find them either. Maybe there is a secret decoder ring you must have to find them.
Pars,
I searched all over the passdiy site and I could not find them either. Maybe there is a secret decoder ring you must have to find them.
Yupp, the link in the STORE webpage is to the B1. My apoplgies.
If I had to do it, I would probably use a 4 layer board. As I said way back in this thread, the ground plane is an antenna and picks up all kinds of radiation.
Finally finished removing the old components from both the Pearl and B1 board.
Next is to repopulate them will the new goods and get the power supplies built. I will be needing one for the Pearl, one for the B1 and one for the new motor controller. I have them all just need to get them in the chassis.
Also have to sit down and see how this will be wired since I will have the Pearl and motor controller board in one chassis, the B1 in another and than all the power supplies in another.
Next is to repopulate them will the new goods and get the power supplies built. I will be needing one for the Pearl, one for the B1 and one for the new motor controller. I have them all just need to get them in the chassis.
Also have to sit down and see how this will be wired since I will have the Pearl and motor controller board in one chassis, the B1 in another and than all the power supplies in another.
Does anyone know if it's possible to buy a single Pearl 2 PCB? I bought a set a while ago and managed to lose one of the boards. No idea how I did that. I've sent a message the contact at passdiy (twice) but haven't received an answer.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Does anyone know if it's possible to buy a single Pearl 2 PCB? I bought a set a while ago and managed to lose one of the boards. No idea how I did that. I've sent a message the contact at passdiy (twice) but haven't received an answer.
Thank you.
I may have one ... I'll PM you this evening when I get home and check.
I may have one ... I'll PM you this evening when I get home and check.
That would be great.
Gain of the second stage is 40dB, first stage (net of the RIAA network) of 15dB = 55dB -- you need to get the second stage gain up to 52dB. You can try 270R and 220R for R14.
I would short the input of the phono preamp, and look at the output to make sure that it isn't oscillating with the second stage gain so high. I would be happier if you used a step up transformer. (I can look at it with my Pearl next week with the network analyzer to check for stability.)
Depends upon the leakage inductance of the transformer you're using, the judgment isn't generic.
Thanks for the information and sorry for the late reply. I will most likely reconsider the use of such high gain and most likely do 65db of gain. With that much gain, I think that my preamp can make up the difference (I hope). I don't want to add any issues for the sake of more gain.
Thanks again. I'm sure you will see more posts in the near future because I am dedicating next to the build.
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