It is not helpful to be dismissive and state methodolgy does not matter if you are "experienced". As an expert in another very technical field, I believe is important to stay humble, maintain a beginners mind. I have learned a lot helping those less experienced - always more to learn, no one knows everything
Hi That is exactly how I think of it. But this is the third version, I can not repeat all that has been said in the other threads. This V3 was made because of demand (not bacause we thought the world needed it) and many emails if we could do it another time. Wel, we did just that. So we stated that this DAC is not for beginners which is our good right as we want satisfied builders.
Just few words, we are beginners but maybe not fools.
OK that how I think it now and yours words give me pains. but at least : thanks for this project and sharing. and that's my right to tell it after read your words 😱. i make a mistake and have laugh to make it and learn, read your words is another dimension, and now I feel this less funny !
I don't think it is only for specialists or very experienced like Abraxalito or others like ECdesigns here because they go with more complicate design. As you said it is a simple and inexpensive experience. Many here have tweaked cd players like I did and are not strictly beginners with iron pen, ok maybe with smd, but is it a no go ? Nobody here say its your fault !
Why if it it's simple and the third time, is it so difficults to copy and paste a method ? in fact more difficult to re write : not for beginners !
you take time with Subbu, thank you for that and as I was said to be a beginner, just accept to hear this : in a certain domain you are not beginner but a fly squadron leader !
Over with this post and project. Have a gentle though to Phil in Lyon for the assembly of all the DACS;
OK that how I think it now and yours words give me pains. but at least : thanks for this project and sharing. and that's my right to tell it after read your words 😱. i make a mistake and have laugh to make it and learn, read your words is another dimension, and now I feel this less funny !
I don't think it is only for specialists or very experienced like Abraxalito or others like ECdesigns here because they go with more complicate design. As you said it is a simple and inexpensive experience. Many here have tweaked cd players like I did and are not strictly beginners with iron pen, ok maybe with smd, but is it a no go ? Nobody here say its your fault !
Why if it it's simple and the third time, is it so difficults to copy and paste a method ? in fact more difficult to re write : not for beginners !
you take time with Subbu, thank you for that and as I was said to be a beginner, just accept to hear this : in a certain domain you are not beginner but a fly squadron leader !
Over with this post and project. Have a gentle though to Phil in Lyon for the assembly of all the DACS;
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Just a quick note before we get back to construction details. This is not new. Several of the successful eBay DAC designers/vendors have declined the opportunity to sell their latest DAC designs in kit form. They simply got too many returns and flames to continue that option. IMHO, that's fully acceptable and may have been the better approach with this design.
I'm not trying to discourage anyone from using a third party for SMD soldering as JP suggests. But if some (like myself) are willing to accept the risk and invest the time to DIY - that's cool and hopefully will be supported.
I'll review the prior threads before I heat up the iron again. But if someone could direct us to the most/more significant sections of those threads it would be a big boost and a time saver.
I'm not trying to discourage anyone from using a third party for SMD soldering as JP suggests. But if some (like myself) are willing to accept the risk and invest the time to DIY - that's cool and hopefully will be supported.
I'll review the prior threads before I heat up the iron again. But if someone could direct us to the most/more significant sections of those threads it would be a big boost and a time saver.
Sorry for my direct approach but being political correct is not my expertise. I am dutch and you will know that. It's in the blood. Why weighing words and turning around when you can say it directly ? Shortest path.
Anyway, my pleasure is that you all have working DACs at Christmas/New Year. We can try to satisfy everybody but that is an impossible task. Those that are still struggling, keep up the hope and Bob: maybe it would be wiser if I send you a working V3 ? You are one of the most positive guys building our DAC and it would just be not right if you end up with "Elektroschrott" as they call it here. Or...do you keep on fighting and finish the DAC ? It is a challenge after all. I think I know the answer.
Anyway, my pleasure is that you all have working DACs at Christmas/New Year. We can try to satisfy everybody but that is an impossible task. Those that are still struggling, keep up the hope and Bob: maybe it would be wiser if I send you a working V3 ? You are one of the most positive guys building our DAC and it would just be not right if you end up with "Elektroschrott" as they call it here. Or...do you keep on fighting and finish the DAC ? It is a challenge after all. I think I know the answer.
Great offer, thanks - but not interested.
That would take the fun and the challenge out of the task. There is a saying here from a comedian called The Cable Guy - "Get er done". I think we will be there in time.😀😀😀
That would take the fun and the challenge out of the task. There is a saying here from a comedian called The Cable Guy - "Get er done". I think we will be there in time.😀😀😀
Looks good but I think the 20 pF caps at Q1 will be tough to solder now Q1 is there. You do need a magnifying glass !
You can "clean" the pins of WM8804 with desoldering braid held to your soldering tool (so it will be heated) and then quickly go from left to right on the pins. Of course the braid will have to be on the original spool otherwise your fingers will hurt.
Sometimes you will need to solder the pins a second time. It needs practice. I sometimes use the braid with a lot of tin/lead solder just to solder the pins. It works and looks good afterwards.
Still need to learn Bobs trick to desolder and have such clean pads....
You can "clean" the pins of WM8804 with desoldering braid held to your soldering tool (so it will be heated) and then quickly go from left to right on the pins. Of course the braid will have to be on the original spool otherwise your fingers will hurt.
Sometimes you will need to solder the pins a second time. It needs practice. I sometimes use the braid with a lot of tin/lead solder just to solder the pins. It works and looks good afterwards.
Still need to learn Bobs trick to desolder and have such clean pads....
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Thank you JP. I ll try it, because I believe my "light touches" could be not enough.
And I suspect solder in one place over q1 legs could be shorted
Still not sure how I managed to do q2 though 😀
And I suspect solder in one place over q1 legs could be shorted
Still not sure how I managed to do q2 though 😀
You know what, I did not notice Q2 being soldered. Good job, you are a winner already. I also found those a pain to solder. I assembled a few boards and I haven't tested one of them yet as I practically know I fried the XO. As said before I would use a larger footprint if a PCB rerun would be done.
And lots of liquid/paste flux if you have it. This one is nice to work with and cleans easily with alcohol and a q-tip. Iv'e had good results by coating the braid directly first.
tack flux
Hi Bob, thanks for the advice. I'm a newbie hoping to start my build in the next few days. I just bought a flux pen, but will the tack flux hold the component in place and free up both hands or do you still need to hold with a fingernail or tweezers? Thanks. Kind regards.
Hi Bob, thanks for the advice. I'm a newbie hoping to start my build in the next few days. I just bought a flux pen, but will the tack flux hold the component in place and free up both hands or do you still need to hold with a fingernail or tweezers? Thanks. Kind regards.
ask somebody to hold q2 for you. it is the most tricky part with exact placement required. if you move even tiny bit xo, you ll have to re position it
Below is what I did to solder Q2 to the V2.6 board:
Clean all 4 pads of Q2 with alcohol.
Tin all 4 pads. When cold, brush a tiny bit of liquid flux on top of the tinned pads.
Put a small piece of 2 sided scotch tape in the "belly" of Q2.
Position Q2.
Solder one corner. Wait a little to let it cool down, then the next corner so on so forth.
YMMV.
Clean all 4 pads of Q2 with alcohol.
Tin all 4 pads. When cold, brush a tiny bit of liquid flux on top of the tinned pads.
Put a small piece of 2 sided scotch tape in the "belly" of Q2.
Position Q2.
Solder one corner. Wait a little to let it cool down, then the next corner so on so forth.
YMMV.
In general the tack flux is only viscous enough to keep the part from sliding around. Once heat is added it softens to a full liquid state -which is a good thing for pad and tab coverage. Some method, be it tweezers, fingernail or whatever works best for you is required as the warm flux is smooth enough to allow the smaller caps and resistors to be drawn toward the soldering tip. U1 and U2 placement and alignment is easier with the two pin first technique - IMO.
Here is another excellent tutorial.
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Replacing Q1 and Q2 did not fix my issue but resoldering 8804 and 9023 did produce music however its distorted.
es9023 pin 11 shows only few mV but should be -3.3V so I need to check that.
8804 pin 9 is 1.7V but does not appear to be connected to anything.
I need to pick up more braid before I can do more troubleshooting.
es9023 pin 11 shows only few mV but should be -3.3V so I need to check that.
8804 pin 9 is 1.7V but does not appear to be connected to anything.
I need to pick up more braid before I can do more troubleshooting.