Sketchup format. You will need to download Sketchup and learn how to generate plans from that.
Alternatively, there are 2D traditional plans made by others linked in post 1.
Alternatively, there are 2D traditional plans made by others linked in post 1.
Thanks.
I noticed you used 3cm thick sponge melamine sponge.
Would 2cm thick blocks be too thin to do the job?
Mine are 2cm thick like everyone else’s. That’s what comes in those packages of 100 from China. I may have mis-stated the thickness at some point.
I just built the Nola Brio clones described here using the TC9FD. Really impressive. Need help building open baffle/bass reflex hybrid
I have heard good things of the Nola Brio clones too. I made a dual TC9FD sealed speaker with a Natilus rear chamber and it had some of the best imaging I have heard. That was quite a fun and memorable speaker.
The Nautaloss Ref Monitor
Having dual TC9FD in parallel gave 92dB at 2.83v sensitivity which was very nice.
The Nautaloss Ref Monitor
Having dual TC9FD in parallel gave 92dB at 2.83v sensitivity which was very nice.
Hi X.
I'm now serious about putting this system together on your recommendation.
Over here we have a sole importer of the TC9FD18-08 drivers, so I'll be arranging an order @ AUD$24.40 a pop x 4, but shipping is AUD$9.
I haven't given up on the Polk PSW10 Sub and will track down a deal.
Can you help me get my head around this?
I'm interested in the connections involved.
The Dayton Audio DTA-120BT2 Class D Mini Amp has 2 RCA inputs and 4 Speaker Outputs (+ & - for each channel).
How do you wire to the Sub & then to the Karlsonator 0.53 Speakers?
Also, the front end will source from a CD Player & PC.
I like the idea of using an external DAC.
Which DAC is recommended to keep with kick *** vs budget and how do we cable this and the CD Player into the Dayton Audio DTA-120BT2?
thanks
I'm now serious about putting this system together on your recommendation.
Over here we have a sole importer of the TC9FD18-08 drivers, so I'll be arranging an order @ AUD$24.40 a pop x 4, but shipping is AUD$9.
I haven't given up on the Polk PSW10 Sub and will track down a deal.
Can you help me get my head around this?
I'm interested in the connections involved.
The Dayton Audio DTA-120BT2 Class D Mini Amp has 2 RCA inputs and 4 Speaker Outputs (+ & - for each channel).
How do you wire to the Sub & then to the Karlsonator 0.53 Speakers?
Also, the front end will source from a CD Player & PC.
I like the idea of using an external DAC.
Which DAC is recommended to keep with kick *** vs budget and how do we cable this and the CD Player into the Dayton Audio DTA-120BT2?
thanks
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I'm trying to remember which online international company, like Mouser, used to have the Tac9FD. I think I got a pair from them.
The good thing is they have offices in many countries, so, there shipping and import is almost non existent.
I just can't remember which has them... Darn I hate getting old!
The good thing is they have offices in many countries, so, there shipping and import is almost non existent.
I just can't remember which has them... Darn I hate getting old!
I think it was Newark/Element 14.
The system works like this:
Source connects via RCA to DT120 amp, amp connects via speaker wire to PSW10 via speaker inputs, speakers connect to PSW10 via speaker outputs (pass through). That's it. You will need two sets of 16ga speaker cable. Get the stranded copper core 16ga zip wire and add your own connectors (banana plugs, or prong for the spring clip connectors on the PSW10).
For a DAC, I just got a new SMSL Sanskrit 10 which uses an AK4490 and has DSD capability and a remote control for under $100USD. I like it very much.
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Sanskri...ocphy=9007577&hvtargid=pla-666925156757&psc=1
I have also used a Focusrite Solo as a DAC for a long time and was happy with it until I discovered it makes noise at 150kHz (you can't hear it of course) but I can measure it and it is there. Whereas the SMSL Sanskrit 10 is quiet there.
The system works like this:
Source connects via RCA to DT120 amp, amp connects via speaker wire to PSW10 via speaker inputs, speakers connect to PSW10 via speaker outputs (pass through). That's it. You will need two sets of 16ga speaker cable. Get the stranded copper core 16ga zip wire and add your own connectors (banana plugs, or prong for the spring clip connectors on the PSW10).
For a DAC, I just got a new SMSL Sanskrit 10 which uses an AK4490 and has DSD capability and a remote control for under $100USD. I like it very much.
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Sanskri...ocphy=9007577&hvtargid=pla-666925156757&psc=1
I have also used a Focusrite Solo as a DAC for a long time and was happy with it until I discovered it makes noise at 150kHz (you can't hear it of course) but I can measure it and it is there. Whereas the SMSL Sanskrit 10 is quiet there.
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Thanks X
Does the Polk Sub have left and right channel (left + & -, right + & -) speaker cable inputs?
If the left and right channel Sub outputs are pass through, does this mean you can listen to the Karlsonators with the Sub switched off?
Thanks for the DAC tip.
I'll go for it?
Is the red panel version from AliExpress a problem?
SMSL Sanskrit 10th SK10 MINI Hifi Digital Decoder AK4490 PCM384 DSD256 DAC Pre out Accelerometer Support OTG with Remote Control-in Digital-to-Analog Converter from Consumer Electronics on AliExpress
I save a few bucks from them.
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If you get that SMSL, do power it with BOTH USB inputs.
If you use only one, it will be under-powered and will have a lot of distortion.
Also, get a nice USB cable instead of the one provided.
Source:
Review and Measurements of SMSL Sanskrit 10th DAC | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
If you use only one, it will be under-powered and will have a lot of distortion.
Also, get a nice USB cable instead of the one provided.
Source:
Review and Measurements of SMSL Sanskrit 10th DAC | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
Sub has stereo input and outputs for speakers. However it plays mono. And speakers work with sub off even. It’s just a pass through to tap off the signal.
I forgot to mention and thanks, Perceval. Do get a second USB cable to plug into the power port. I actually is a Lion battery pack to power mine for ultimate low noise. One of those cell phone booster packs.
Here is what the sub back panel connectors look like:
I forgot to mention and thanks, Perceval. Do get a second USB cable to plug into the power port. I actually is a Lion battery pack to power mine for ultimate low noise. One of those cell phone booster packs.
Here is what the sub back panel connectors look like:
Let me interject a note of caution concerning use of speaker level inputs to subs when using chip amps (or any bridge tied load style amp). In a BTL configuration, the (-) terminals are not common ground (not ground level at all). I have been told that tying the (-) terminal of such an amp to ground or tying L and R channel (-) together could result in damage to the amp. You might want to check in the sections here where folks are building chip type amps.
Cheers, Jim
Cheers, Jim
Thanks, Jim. That’s an excellent point. For this particular sub (PSW10) and amp (DT120BT) combination, I actually have tested it and it’s in use right now with no issues. Apparently the negative speaker in on the sub must be isolated between left and right.
If you look hard, you can see the DT120 sitting atop the PSW10 on the left of this photo.
If you look hard, you can see the DT120 sitting atop the PSW10 on the left of this photo.
Hi X,
I'm just very cautious and want to be sure that no one accidentally lets the magic smoke out! Glad to know you have checked out this particular configuration!
I'm just very cautious and want to be sure that no one accidentally lets the magic smoke out! Glad to know you have checked out this particular configuration!
Hi X.
Should I be cautious when using DT120BT and similar class d amps if I use Subs other than the Polk?
What general rule should I use when playing around with speaker combinations and the DT120BT?
thanks
Are you referring to powering the SMSL Sanskrit 10 DAC?
Instead of a Lion power pack, can I get away with using a plug in 220/110v Power Supply Unit, and if so what spec?
Also, what are the Line In red and white terminals on the Polk Sub used for?
Thanks
C
Y
Use a continuity checker and make sure negative speaker input terminals on sub are isolated electrically. Many Class D amps have a BTL configuration where the -ve is not the same as ground and they cannot be shared between channels. The -ve is in fact live output in opposite phase as +ve out.
The RCA in is provided in case you have a preamp with separate subwoofer outputs.
The SMSL DAC needs a clean USB 5v 2A PSU - something like an iPad USB wall wart can work. Use a big USB to micro USB connector cable to connect to SMSL DAC. It has two micro USB ports. One for the digital signal from your computer. And the other for auxiliary power supply. When the auxiliary is plugged in, it stops using the power from the computer port (which is often underpowered and dirty).
Even better than a USB wall wart is a dedicated clean regulated 5v PSU specially made for DACs. They can be expensive - as much as the DAC. I have found that a $12 LiIon USB power pack can give me quiet power for days at a time with the DAC.
I would start with an inexpensive 2A USB charger and see if you hear any noise. If not then you are fine.
For example:
AmazonBasics One-Port USB Wall Charger for Phone, iPad, and Tablet, 2.4 Amp, White, 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773JCTR5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oNo.DbHPW8FJ2
Use a continuity checker and make sure negative speaker input terminals on sub are isolated electrically. Many Class D amps have a BTL configuration where the -ve is not the same as ground and they cannot be shared between channels. The -ve is in fact live output in opposite phase as +ve out.
The RCA in is provided in case you have a preamp with separate subwoofer outputs.
The SMSL DAC needs a clean USB 5v 2A PSU - something like an iPad USB wall wart can work. Use a big USB to micro USB connector cable to connect to SMSL DAC. It has two micro USB ports. One for the digital signal from your computer. And the other for auxiliary power supply. When the auxiliary is plugged in, it stops using the power from the computer port (which is often underpowered and dirty).
Even better than a USB wall wart is a dedicated clean regulated 5v PSU specially made for DACs. They can be expensive - as much as the DAC. I have found that a $12 LiIon USB power pack can give me quiet power for days at a time with the DAC.
I would start with an inexpensive 2A USB charger and see if you hear any noise. If not then you are fine.
For example:
AmazonBasics One-Port USB Wall Charger for Phone, iPad, and Tablet, 2.4 Amp, White, 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773JCTR5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oNo.DbHPW8FJ2
Thanks X
I have an LG 100/240V 50/60Hz 0.5A 5.0V 3.0A PSU.
Would this be suitable for the SMSL DAC or does it need to be strictly in the 2A range?
Regarding the continuity checker, is this one of the selections found on a multi meter? If so which setting (e.g Volts!)?
Would I place one of the terminals on the meter on each of the negative speaker input terminals of the Polk Sub and the other on the ****?
C
Not mentioned yet, certainly can fit into a $500 budget, use drivers that can be had in Oz, and — from the looks on faces — taken breaths away are the Frugel-Horns (3 sizes, 4 soon).
There are quite a few loudspeakers that fill your quest, there is no best, only best for you. Everyone has compromises that they can make, and there are many compromises in loudspeakers.
One also has to consider room, room placement, WAF.
it is always advisable to start with a modest project. What you learn can be very valuable. And given a high tendency to build a 2nd pair & a 3rd pair and ...
X has suggested a few (some of the drivers already meantioned fit, and work, in a Frugel-Horn). But $500 might be modest for many. WOuld build a very nice pair of Frugel-Horn XLs with Alpair 10.3 or Alpair 10p.
dave
There are quite a few loudspeakers that fill your quest, there is no best, only best for you. Everyone has compromises that they can make, and there are many compromises in loudspeakers.
One also has to consider room, room placement, WAF.
it is always advisable to start with a modest project. What you learn can be very valuable. And given a high tendency to build a 2nd pair & a 3rd pair and ...
X has suggested a few (some of the drivers already meantioned fit, and work, in a Frugel-Horn). But $500 might be modest for many. WOuld build a very nice pair of Frugel-Horn XLs with Alpair 10.3 or Alpair 10p.
dave
dont know.