If you need more help, these threads are the place to look. A huge wealth of info and lots of people there to answer questions:
Cheap TPA3118D2 boards, modding them and everything that comes with it
TPA3116D2 Amp
One more thing, there are breathtaking speakers that don't cost much to build, but require a lot of skill, manual labor, and experience to make. Here is the Trynergy, a tractrix horn with a 2-way FAST system using budget drivers and foam core that I made for under $50. Add a pair of $10 TPA3116 class D amps, an $80 miniDSP, a $100 microphone, and a $120 store bought or eBay subwoofer and you have not only breathtaking, but a stunning, and perhaps one of the best speakers that you will ever hear. I have only heard maybe 3 to 5 speakers ever that were stunning and 2 of them were synergy-style horn based speakers. Stunning is when the sound stops you dead in your tracks and you are unable to leave or move until you get to hear more and more of it.
You could build the trynergy in wood using bendy ply and BB ply etc, and it would add maybe $200 to the cost. Still reasonably priced but not an easy beginner's speaker to make.
Presenting the Trynergy - a full range tractrix synergy.
The speaker enclosure and drivers below were made for under $50:
Rock12 recently took it to heart and made what looks like an exact copy of mine, down to the penguin tuxedo color scheme:
Here is the best speaker I have ever heard, and yes it was stunning and a synergy style horn. It uses a $170 (formerly $375) Heil AMT tweeter and a B&C 6ND44 mid range, DSP active amplification same as Trynergy. Also used a front loaded horn subwoofer. The foam core horn is not expensive, but requires some experience and skill to craft. The drivers are not cheap, but there are lower cost alternatives to keep cost below $500 and still sound stunning.
So the main point is, breathtaking/stunning speakers can be made with more elbow grease and experience applied to the design and construction. There are not many commercial speakers that can sound this good.
You could build the trynergy in wood using bendy ply and BB ply etc, and it would add maybe $200 to the cost. Still reasonably priced but not an easy beginner's speaker to make.
Presenting the Trynergy - a full range tractrix synergy.
The speaker enclosure and drivers below were made for under $50:
Rock12 recently took it to heart and made what looks like an exact copy of mine, down to the penguin tuxedo color scheme:
Here is the best speaker I have ever heard, and yes it was stunning and a synergy style horn. It uses a $170 (formerly $375) Heil AMT tweeter and a B&C 6ND44 mid range, DSP active amplification same as Trynergy. Also used a front loaded horn subwoofer. The foam core horn is not expensive, but requires some experience and skill to craft. The drivers are not cheap, but there are lower cost alternatives to keep cost below $500 and still sound stunning.
So the main point is, breathtaking/stunning speakers can be made with more elbow grease and experience applied to the design and construction. There are not many commercial speakers that can sound this good.
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Hi X.
I'm not a gamer.
TV/PC used to access youtube, online music sources and FLAC/WAV file for ripping cds.
Is USB not desirable?
Should I go Toslink optical and SPDIF coaxial digital input?
Will future tvs do away with usb?
Thanks guys.
Will definitely keep an eye open for used and also SB.
Just committed at the moment with the Karlsonaters.
Already picked up the drivers.
cheers
C
Hi X.
Have successfully opened Jhofland 3d model using Sketchup.
How should I convert to 2d?
Also, model doesn't appear to include dimensions?
thanks
C
Hi X.
SMSL SA300 Amp has a single SW RCA output for the powered Sub.
My powered Sub has 2 x RCA inputs (+ In & - In)
Can I run a single RCA to one of the Subs inputs or do I need a special cable?
SMSL SA300 High Power Bluetooth 5.0 HiFi Remote Digital Amplifier on AliExpress
Sketchup model contains the dimensions - you need to extract them by making drawings out of it. Watch some YouTube videos on how. I don’t use it so can’t help you. Maybe ask a member here who is good with Sketchup or teach yourself. It’s part of the journey and will come in handy later.
Just connect one RCA cable to the sub. The sub sums the L and R and puts out mono, now that is done in the SMSL amp.
Just connect one RCA cable to the sub. The sub sums the L and R and puts out mono, now that is done in the SMSL amp.
XRK, the AMT speaker from post 102 makes me want to buy a pair of Heil AMTs🙂 I cannot find BC 6ND44, only 6NDL44. But I would guess there are many 6"-8" speakers that would work well in this design, am I right? I have a pair of 8PE21 waiting for use. My adventures with Patrick Bateman's UICW definitely make me want another Unity/Synergy style speaker. What was the crossover frequency to the bass horn and do you remember the mouth dimensions? I also wonder if the Beyma TPL-150 would work as well. There are not many AMTs available in Europe. The good news is that Heil actually ships to my country, although I will end up paying double due to shipping and customs/VAT.
More info here on design with crossover frequencies. Sorry it was 6MDN44. Although many 5in to 6in midrange drivers works here. I just used it because I had it on hand plus it is sensitive.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/345123-unity-synergy-horn-closed-vs-6.html#post6026633
The XO w Heil was low around 700Hz. TPL150H works great too but XO around 2k.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/345123-unity-synergy-horn-closed-vs-6.html#post6026633
The XO w Heil was low around 700Hz. TPL150H works great too but XO around 2k.
I pulled the trigger and ordered a pair of AMTs from ESS. The postage is killing the great price on them and there will be VAT and customs added, but I think these will be worth the investment. From the description in the other thread, I tried to replicate the design but I miserably failed to get identical dimensions. However, as I see it, I can make the horn any size as long as it fits the intended place and when I know the exact dimensions of the throat, I could not find that anywhere on the net. I will go for a 3D printed throat to make a smooth transition possible and most probably have the panels cut from 15 mm plywood once I figure out the dimensions properly. Also, one 8PE21 will be put on each horn first since this is what I already have, it should work easily above 200 Hz and match the ribbon up.
I think the AMT would also work for a naked open baffle experiment with a 12" - so I will make a stand, too. Unfortunately I have no room for open baffles, but I will at least try if I like that or not🙂
I think the AMT would also work for a naked open baffle experiment with a 12" - so I will make a stand, too. Unfortunately I have no room for open baffles, but I will at least try if I like that or not🙂
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You won’t regret it. Heil AMT’s are probably the best sounding tweeters I have heard, at any price. They are also very flexible on how you use them. OB, or just sitting on top of a sealed or reflex box is good too. Or in a horn as I did. I have tried them many ways and it is superb in any case.
I ran into a post the other day that reminded me of my own experiment with a Heil AMT in a Z baffle.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ful...le-aperture-baffle-dipole-11.html#post4297224
I ran into a post the other day that reminded me of my own experiment with a Heil AMT in a Z baffle.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ful...le-aperture-baffle-dipole-11.html#post4297224
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I just got a Polk DB10 delivered Friday for $160, is that comparable?
Sorry, on phone and link has a problem, look on eBay, seller Brandbeast.
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Hi X.
Picked up this Jensen AVX 2001 Subwoofer from the trash and treasure market today for $20.
2 x 10" front firing drivers with large vented magnets/four layer voice coils.
Driver Sensitivity: 91dB
Power: 140W RMS
Freq Response: 20Hz - 200Hz.
Auto On/Off power switch with light and thermal protection.
Level, Phase & Crossover Frequency Controls.
R&L Line Level inputs & outputs
Hi(Speaker) Level inputs & outputs
Enclosure: Bass Reflex
Haven't had a chance to test it.
Will this suit my Karlsonator project?
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