Breathtaking DIY Loudspeaker design under $500??

[wintermute]

not quite.... Actually more like $340AU...

Tony.

 

[xrk971]

Oh well, sorry - that’s what the screen told me shipping was. Did sound rather low. But there must be other brands of HT subs you can get locally in Oz?

This one says $220AUSD and free standard shipping. Is it true?

Polk Audio PSW10 10in Powered Subwoofer Single Black | eBay

 

[wintermute]

It says "May not post to Australia". Generally shipping from the US is crazy expensive to Aus. It is not uncommon for even small things to be minimum $50 US to be shipped.

I find the best place in Aus to get drivers is wagner. They have a pretty good selection and the prices are not bad (well they were a lot better when the aussie dollar was at or near parity with the US).. Speaker Drivers | Wagner Online Electronic Stores

I've never shopped for any speakers really (always diy'ed from a young age) so not really sure what options there are.

Tony.

 

[BevanOD]

I think Perceval has some great recommendations - my vote is the 0.53x dual driver Karlsonator. It’s an impressive sounding speaker for not much money when built in foam core. Can be made of wood too and with proper dampening materials, can sound as good as the foam core. If you can handle 4ohm loads a parallel TC9FD works well. If you want a 16omload, dual 3FE25-16’s in parallel are the way to go.

Could I please pick your brain about these in foam? I've been reading a lot and with so many good reviews I've decided to give them a go. I have two Markaudio Pluvia 7's on the way so will try one with those. For best performance, would you go with foam or wood? Can you elaborate also on proper damping materials if built in wood (mdf)? I have always thought bigger is better, for example 24 mm MDF better than 12mm.
Many thanks!

 

[xrk971]

If you make it out of wood, the tips on how to apply dampening foam is here:

Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's

I would suggest foam core for your first one. It will sound better than wood right off the bat. The wood won’t sound good until the dampening foam is applied. Get bags of 50 or 100 melamine sponges (miracle eraser pads) from China. Those are the best. Same as BASF Basotect. Since the patent expired, China has been selling them 100 for $6 shipping included.

I can’t recall if I made a sim and scaling for a Pluvia 7. It’s prob close to the CHN-70 which I use as an everyday speaker at work.

 

[BevanOD]

That's great, thank you! Yeah, I think it is very similar to the CHR-70. I have just ordered those sponges, from both china and a local mob here (not cheap) and will compare the two. I'll report back in a few weeks! 🙂

 

[CliffR52]

Either TC9FD (4ohms in parallel) or 3FE25-16 (8 Ohms parallel)will work well.

I'm favouring the TCD9FD's.

I've noticed there's an option.

TC9FD18-08 and TC9FD00-04

Is it worth kicking in the extra 30% more money and buying the TC9FD00-04 which is supposed to be improved over the 18-8?

thanks

 

[CliffR52]

Get bags of 50 or 100 melamine sponges (miracle eraser pads) from China. Those are the best.

Are the 10cm x 6cm x 2cm pieces OK to use?

What do you glue them with?

I noticed larger sheets of the stuff on the Karlsonator build photos?

Will a patchwork of the 10cm x 6cm x 2cm pieces be suitable.

Thanks.

 

[CliffR52]

If you make it out of wood, the tips on how to apply dampening foam is here:

Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's

You've sold me on the Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's.

I'd prefer to go timber with the miracle eraser pad lining as presentation is also important for me.

I was thinking Tung Oil or Danish Oil and finished with bees wax??

Will the Dayton Audio DTA-120BT2 Class D Mini Amp compliment the Karlsonator?

I understand installing the Dual TC9FD's in parallel.

How would the sub woofer fit into this set up (wiring/XO etc)?

Does the Karlsonator need capacitors etc?


I'm studying your CAD drawing on post 198.
Is there a CAD drawing using timber material?
What diameter ply would you use?

thanks

Cliff

 

[xrk971]

Please use the 8ohm TC9FD in parallel. The 4ohms are really a different animal, less power handling, and you couldn’t wire them in parallel.

The sponges you have are same size as I use. Patchwork is fine and cut to fit. They cut exceptionally well with a razor as they are “crunchy” and not rubbery like usual polyurethane based sponges. Tack in place with hot melt glue. Or any usual construction adhesive. Hot melt sets instantly.

There are indeed wooden plans made by Jhofland. You will have to search thread (link at top of post 1) for posts by him. I finished mine in boiled linseed oil (2 coats) with 4 days to dry in between. I sanded the last coat with extra fine 600grit sandpaper while wet with BLO to fill in all the voids with wood powder and BLO for a smooth satin finish. Final finish was paste wax. Turned out super and deep wood grain.

Here is my pair built by Jhofland in Baltic birch ply finished in BLO and wax:

Most HT style subs have either an RCA in or speaker level inputs. They also have speaker level pass through which then connect to the Karlsonators. The subs have a low pass filter and adjustable frequency and amplitude and phase flip if desired. Adjust to taste.

The Dayton DT120 amp is more than enough and will provide a very nice sound. If you ever get into building Class A amps from DIYA (look in SS forum or Pass Labs forum) you will be rewarded with better sound. But it is subtle and for most people and applications, a good class D is just fine. In the photo above I am running a superb Class A amp (still unboxed) to test out. But I normally have a Class D amp here with the same speakers.

For more questions on Karlsonator, I suggest posting in that thread.

Cheers,
X

 

[thimios]

Hi X, i want to ask.
Is this type of cabinet suitable for small diameter speakers only?
Another question, did you used this other than full-range speakers?

 

[perceval]

I'm favouring the TCD9FD's.

I've noticed there's an option.

TC9FD18-08 and TC9FD00-04

Is it worth kicking in the extra 30% more money and buying the TC9FD00-04 which is supposed to be improved over the 18-8?

thanks

I would love to see where and who came up with that assumption....

 

[xrk971]

This cabinet was originally designed by GregB for a 12in full range driver. I have scaled it for everything in between and even up for an 18in driver. It can be used with just a woofer and mids and highs can be provided by other drivers. A good choice is a coaxial woofer with a tweeter in the middle. A pro audio CD coaxial is one choice. Of course, you need to make your own crossover.

Karlsonator

 

[thimios]

This cabinet was originally designed by GregB for a 12in full range driver. I have scaled it for everything in between and even up for an 18in driver. It can be used with just a woofer and mids and highs can be provided by other drivers. A good choice is a coaxial woofer with a tweeter in the middle. A pro audio CD coaxial is one choice. Of course, you need to make your own crossover.

Karlsonator

Thanks for answer, are coaxial speakers, other than cheap car speakers, available now days?
May be it is time for a try.
I have a remaining piece of Plywood.😉

 

[xrk971]

Of course pro audio (high sensitivity high power high price) are available. For example:

B&C 12NCX 12" Neodymium Coaxial Speaker

or

B&C 12HCX76 12" Neodymium Coaxial Speaker 60 x 40 Degree

or you can make your own like I did with a PA130-8 (5in full range):

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/279043-daytonator-pa130-8x-3.html#post4439628

 

[thimios]

Those are far out of my budjet. 😱

 

[xrk971]

That’s why I made my own for $18. 🙂

Or just use a full range driver like a PA130-8. Or a W5-2143. Both sound exceptional nice in a Karlsonator. Well, 2143 in an XKi. But could be adapted to Karlsonator nicely.

 

[CliffR52]

I would love to see where and who came up with that assumption....

Hi P.

As advised by X, I'm sticking with the 8ohm TC9FD18-08's.


But to answer your question this is what a retailer is saying regarding the TC9FD00-04 driver:

Quote: "WITH PATENTED PENTACUT NRSC CONE TECHNOLOGY FOR BETTER CONTROL

This 3.5" 4 ohm full-range driver,with ferrite magnet, paper cone, fabric surround and steel basket, is designed to be a cost-effective high performance full range driver. The cone utilises Tymphany-patented PentaCut NRSC cone technology to help dampen and control cone resonances, optimizing the listening experience. The motor contains a copper cap to lower inductance and distortion. The product was designed with Pro column and other high sensitivity full range applications in mind. "

 

[xrk971]

All TC9FD, TG9FD, and even SCANSpeak 10F (same heritage) use the patented NRSC cones and copper shorting rings. It’s the reason why they are so smooth in response and have a similar frequency response profile. So the 8ohm driver will have the same description. If you look carefully at the backside where the cone is bonded to the surround you can see a pentagonal outline. Pentagons don’t have the same drumhead vibration breakup modes as a round disc.

Btw, here’s a great review of the 10F/8414. The $70 ScanSpeak that I have been meaning to try in the 10F/RS225 FAST speaker.

Test Bench - Scan-Speak 10F/8414G10 Small 3.5” Full-Range Woofer | audioXpress

 

[CliffR52]

All TC9FD, TG9FD, and even SCANSpeak 10F (same heritage) use the patented Pentacut cones and copper shorting rings. It’s the reason why they are so smooth in response and have a similar frequency response profile. So the 8ohm driver will have the same description. If you look carefully at the backside where the cone is bonded to the surround you can see a pentagonal outline. Pentagons don’t have the same drumhead vibration breakup modes as a round disc.

I'm totally with you on these and will go with the 8 ohm TC9FD18-08.

An Australian retailer attributes Pentacut only to the TC9FD00-04.
Then they sell the TC9FD00-04 at a 50% higher sale price.

It was easy to assume incorrectly.

Thanks for straightening this out.

I'm having trouble opening the Mini Karlsonater 0.53 Wood version on post #3342 & #3345

What file type will I open it as?

Thanks

C