@jan.didden
https://archive.org/details/bryston_BP25_SCHEMATICS you can find them in this scheme
output capacitors
There are also companies who leave them out...
https://www.fidelityaudio.co.uk/bryston-bp25-pre-amplifier-upgrade-5350-p.asp
https://archive.org/details/bryston_BP25_SCHEMATICS you can find them in this scheme
output capacitors
There are also companies who leave them out...
https://www.fidelityaudio.co.uk/bryston-bp25-pre-amplifier-upgrade-5350-p.asp
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My 2 cents, after mucking around for so many yrs with components, never ever rely on specs, cause example regardless of brands, all caps has a sonic signature of their own. It may sound wonderful at 1 location but that does not mean that it will sound the same at another spot. So asking for recommendations are to me a mooted point. Also different circuit designs reacts differently to component choices.
Cheers
Cheers
Or just choose an A brand and try out. Relying on your own expertise/experience is cool. Becoming better in judging stuff is also a personal achievement. The “person X that wrote book Y” and “(insert known/famous name here) says these are excellent in his 2002 tests” may not be your thing either. That is not standard in our culture anyway and frowned upon. You don’t need any person to choose capacitors except yourself. Also caps that are recommended may be different a year later (or discontinued). Caps recommended by famous audio expert Barry F. Jones may be totally not your taste even though these are used in 6000 Euro device Z and measure like a wire.
I have 100 uF 100V film caps so these exist.
This is a specific hobby with pretty specific details. If you measure the length and pitch of that cap an alternative will come up. I only know many older Philips series with that blue sleeve are notorious for mediocre quality, significantly worse than the average Japanse brands caps.What would you suggest for replacing these blue elco's? 100uF 40v axial bipolar.
I have 100 uF 100V film caps so these exist.
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Well Jan,
How about a good brand (not Philips, not Chinese cheapies)?
Hi sumotan,
As straight coupling capacitors, that is patently untrue. Maybe in special circumstances, but only if you develop a signal voltage across the capacitor. The rest is expectation bias.
As for specs, sure. Actual measured performance does matter and the instruments giving you real numbers are typically very expensive ( >$2K). Most of us will not spend the money on the equipment needed, but rely on cheap instruments that claim to give us correct values. Hearing a part = distortion. Always go for minimal distortion in every aspect, not just a needle on a THD meter. The spectrum.
How about a good brand (not Philips, not Chinese cheapies)?
Hi sumotan,
As straight coupling capacitors, that is patently untrue. Maybe in special circumstances, but only if you develop a signal voltage across the capacitor. The rest is expectation bias.
As for specs, sure. Actual measured performance does matter and the instruments giving you real numbers are typically very expensive ( >$2K). Most of us will not spend the money on the equipment needed, but rely on cheap instruments that claim to give us correct values. Hearing a part = distortion. Always go for minimal distortion in every aspect, not just a needle on a THD meter. The spectrum.
good available for me are:Or just choose an A brand and try out. Relying on your own expertise/experience is cool. Becoming better in judging stuff is also a personal achievement. The “person X that wrote book Y” and “(insert known/famous name here) says these are excellent in his 2002 tests” may not be your thing either. That is not standard in our culture anyway and frowned upon. You don’t need any person to choose capacitors except yourself. Also caps that are recommended may be different a year later (or discontinued). Caps recommended by famous audio expert Barry F. Jones may be totally not your taste even though these are used in 6000 Euro device Z and measure like a wire.
This is a specific hobby with pretty specific details. If you measure the length and pitch of that cap an alternative will come up. I only know many older Philips series with that blue sleeve are notorious for mediocre quality, significantly worse than the average Japanse brands caps.
I have 100 uF 100V film caps so these exist.
Mundorf ECAP100-100 | 100 µF | 5% | 100 V
Jantzen Audio 001-6171 | 100 µF | 5% | 100 V
Audyn ERA/100/100 | 100 µF | 10% | 100 V
F&T 100uF 100Vdc Axial, leaded 20%
"Good" would be any decent industrial brand available from parts suppliers similar to Digikey or Mouser. I would avoid audio brands.
Axial caps: not too many people are making them nowadays, and the dark blue ones you have, BC/Vishay/Philips, often fail for no reason. Currently, Mouser has a limited choice of Epcos/TDK which are OK-ish. Mundorf also has some, I believe they're made by F&T.
If you're ready for some surgeries, you can also force fit the radial ones with considerably lower costs and wider choice. Here's my Linn/Valhalla board:
If you're ready for some surgeries, you can also force fit the radial ones with considerably lower costs and wider choice. Here's my Linn/Valhalla board:
Yes that is the length I requested. Length in uF and pitch in V 🙂good available for me are:
Mundorf ECAP100-100 | 100 µF | 5% | 100 V
Jantzen Audio 001-6171 | 100 µF | 5% | 100 V
Audyn ERA/100/100 | 100 µF | 10% | 100 V
F&T 100uF 100Vdc Axial, leaded 20%
Absolutely. That was the first thing that came to mind, how are the Caps used. Are they even in the audio path. Need a schematic to study for this question.
Have you seen my answer? I'm curious what you have to say.How can anybody give a sensible advice without knowing their function??
Jan
If they are output coupling caps then if you know the next stage has coupling caps, nothing stopping you removing them and bridging to try. At 100uf 40V I suspect you won't need 40V rating as well ?
Anyway AC coupling signal caps I like :
1. Silmic II, Nichicon Muse ES (with the right bypass, between 0.1uf and 2uf)
2. Tantalum with a polyester film bypass 0.1uf
3. Other bypass Jupiter comet red, Arizona Blue, Jensen PIO
Anyway AC coupling signal caps I like :
1. Silmic II, Nichicon Muse ES (with the right bypass, between 0.1uf and 2uf)
2. Tantalum with a polyester film bypass 0.1uf
3. Other bypass Jupiter comet red, Arizona Blue, Jensen PIO
Not the best of ideas. When DC coupled with considerate DC (often half the supply voltage with asymmetric supply) at the now bridged outputs a short with the interlinks possibly is fatal. Been there done that. Also the device would be hampered (RESALE VALUE !!!!! 😀), the manufacturer did not use more expensive bipolar caps without a reason.
Anyway the thread has shifted to a particular issue of a member but without knowing physical properties of the axial caps in question adequate advice can not be given. For real good advice one has to give to be able to take.
If an industrial quality film cap 100 µF 160V is exactly as long as the Philips bipolar electrolytic caps I would not hesitate a second. It would also not hurt to examine the schematic of the device and recalculate the coupling cap values. Possibly value was overdimensioned to mitigate issues of electrolytic caps. Often one sees for instance 47 µF 25V electrolytic caps where 4.7 µF film caps could have been used with still a 3 Hz - 3db point. Clever guys choose caps without the need for melt glue and extension wires voodoo making stuff worse than leaving it as it was.
Anyway the thread has shifted to a particular issue of a member but without knowing physical properties of the axial caps in question adequate advice can not be given. For real good advice one has to give to be able to take.
If an industrial quality film cap 100 µF 160V is exactly as long as the Philips bipolar electrolytic caps I would not hesitate a second. It would also not hurt to examine the schematic of the device and recalculate the coupling cap values. Possibly value was overdimensioned to mitigate issues of electrolytic caps. Often one sees for instance 47 µF 25V electrolytic caps where 4.7 µF film caps could have been used with still a 3 Hz - 3db point. Clever guys choose caps without the need for melt glue and extension wires voodoo making stuff worse than leaving it as it was.
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Bypassing? What's not the best ideas? Or do you mean leaving them out?Not the best of ideas
Please reread post and reread request for information.
OK.
1. Bridging boo boo
2. Cap how big?
OK.
1. Bridging boo boo
2. Cap how big?
1. Bridging boo boo?1. Bridging boo boo
2. Cap how big?
2. almost 30 mm long, about 12 mm diameter
1. Bridging bah bah.
2. Kemet RADIAL (!) so actually available 100 µF 100V cap exactly 41.5 mm long, 20 mm wide and 37.5 mm pitch. If you measure exactly like normal in this field you could determine if those way better film caps can be used. The 47 µF version has a pitch of 27.5 mm.
3. Kemet radial (!) so actually available 47 µF 63V has a pitch of 27.5 mm. 27.5 mm very close to 30 mm... Lead wires are about 5 mm and adequate copper bending is our Leidenschaft. Possibly support cap with dot of acid free silicone in the middle. Have them in front of me. Paid a normal so non-USA distributor price for them (as always). Recalculate* with schematic if 47 µF is sufficient.
All this if you like solution oriented way of working instead of endless Gelaber. No thanks.
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/KEMET/R60EW61005000K?qs=lyRJTFulC0ZALh2o7uDGyQ==&srsltid=AfmBOoqy08mQ61oKbtPZpWpIRtLcYhIvopmLntXt6A3fAOQyInXeM5dH
Translation:
1. no OK
2. maybe OK
3. more OK
* I just recalculated and 47 µF are more than enough. No penalty. Choose wisely, work tidy, do stuff right at once.
2. Kemet RADIAL (!) so actually available 100 µF 100V cap exactly 41.5 mm long, 20 mm wide and 37.5 mm pitch. If you measure exactly like normal in this field you could determine if those way better film caps can be used. The 47 µF version has a pitch of 27.5 mm.
3. Kemet radial (!) so actually available 47 µF 63V has a pitch of 27.5 mm. 27.5 mm very close to 30 mm... Lead wires are about 5 mm and adequate copper bending is our Leidenschaft. Possibly support cap with dot of acid free silicone in the middle. Have them in front of me. Paid a normal so non-USA distributor price for them (as always). Recalculate* with schematic if 47 µF is sufficient.
All this if you like solution oriented way of working instead of endless Gelaber. No thanks.
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/KEMET/R60EW61005000K?qs=lyRJTFulC0ZALh2o7uDGyQ==&srsltid=AfmBOoqy08mQ61oKbtPZpWpIRtLcYhIvopmLntXt6A3fAOQyInXeM5dH
Translation:
1. no OK
2. maybe OK
3. more OK
* I just recalculated and 47 µF are more than enough. No penalty. Choose wisely, work tidy, do stuff right at once.
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I thought you would want to know what the function of those caps is so you can make an informed decision for replacement/upgrade.Have you seen my answer? I'm curious what you have to say.
I would look them up in the schematic to see if they are coupling caps, power supply caps, filter caps, etc.
Jan
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