Yay! Thanks for impressions. It seems whatever it is (genera better-ness) is universally agreed upon… tells me it’s not a change between the ears…. love that. Hence giving time to new gear and for me going back to previous to “know” anything…. subjective as it is… some of it’s less so I think.
Re: speaks… once I get some shelves made and the vinyl off the listening er living room floor.. then I can start gently putting some large pieces of wood in the room (w FR inside)… for “experimentation” to gauge the family reactions… meantime… there’s links in previous posts to my speakers.. 92db 3-ways that are probably not considered small (I’m not qualified to says what’s pro about a driver… but you can check out the project) sound bloody great to me.. best speakers I’ve ever owned..
Can’t wait to SS Down!
Re: speaks… once I get some shelves made and the vinyl off the listening er living room floor.. then I can start gently putting some large pieces of wood in the room (w FR inside)… for “experimentation” to gauge the family reactions… meantime… there’s links in previous posts to my speakers.. 92db 3-ways that are probably not considered small (I’m not qualified to says what’s pro about a driver… but you can check out the project) sound bloody great to me.. best speakers I’ve ever owned..
Can’t wait to SS Down!
This is what I came up with for final top plate casework of my BJ2.
Table saw wouldn’t give me clean cuts/corners and mill is too small so I had to get creative and used a discount store 8” x 10” picture frame as a template for my router to make ventilation windows.
Added peek-a-boo hole for temp display with mill afterwards.
Still have the second amp top plate to do…but then I think they are finally done…unless I end up having to dial back Iq when the weather gets hot again 🤷♂️
I’m trying to build up steam to get going on my bi amping adventures.
Man its cold out today!
Table saw wouldn’t give me clean cuts/corners and mill is too small so I had to get creative and used a discount store 8” x 10” picture frame as a template for my router to make ventilation windows.
Added peek-a-boo hole for temp display with mill afterwards.
Still have the second amp top plate to do…but then I think they are finally done…unless I end up having to dial back Iq when the weather gets hot again 🤷♂️
I’m trying to build up steam to get going on my bi amping adventures.
Man its cold out today!
Attachments
Wow, that looks amazing Chromenuts! Do you rough cut the opening with a jigsaw or something and clean the edge with router or do you just plunge route the entire opening? Does the alu chew up bits?
Cheers,
Stephen
Cheers,
Stephen
I just plunged it.
Cut a little at a time with depth setting stop on router…maybe .5 mm at a time.
You could rough cut with a jigsaw, but the feet will scratch this type of surface up. I wanted to avoid that even if cutting from the inside. I’ve tried covering the feet with masking tape, but it can wear through.
I use carbide bits…no problem with soft aluminum like this. It will eventually wear, but no more than with cutting hard woods or MDF in my experience.
I do the same with carbide blades on my table saw.
Obviously make sure you wear good eye protection and beware that if you cut too aggressively you will get hot chips. You definitely want to wear long sleeves to avoid discomfort from any hot chips landing on your skin.
Cut a little at a time with depth setting stop on router…maybe .5 mm at a time.
You could rough cut with a jigsaw, but the feet will scratch this type of surface up. I wanted to avoid that even if cutting from the inside. I’ve tried covering the feet with masking tape, but it can wear through.
I use carbide bits…no problem with soft aluminum like this. It will eventually wear, but no more than with cutting hard woods or MDF in my experience.
I do the same with carbide blades on my table saw.
Obviously make sure you wear good eye protection and beware that if you cut too aggressively you will get hot chips. You definitely want to wear long sleeves to avoid discomfort from any hot chips landing on your skin.
Attachments
Very nice!
Maple and Walnut are my favorite to work with. I have a decent amount of both I’ve hoarded over the years.
I was hoping to carry the theme over to one of my speaker projects as well.
It might also end up being an MLTL for one of my pairs of Tannoy DC.
ZM is tapping foot and rolling eyes…as he helped me with some plans a few moons ago.
Problem is I work like a 🐌 and get distracted often buying shiny new things!
Regardless, now I have a pair of stereo BJ2 and recently found a Tannoy X05000 crossover that I can use to bi-amp any Tannoy DC I have in whatever scenario I can dream up. 😉
Maple and Walnut are my favorite to work with. I have a decent amount of both I’ve hoarded over the years.
I was hoping to carry the theme over to one of my speaker projects as well.
It might also end up being an MLTL for one of my pairs of Tannoy DC.
ZM is tapping foot and rolling eyes…as he helped me with some plans a few moons ago.
Problem is I work like a 🐌 and get distracted often buying shiny new things!
Regardless, now I have a pair of stereo BJ2 and recently found a Tannoy X05000 crossover that I can use to bi-amp any Tannoy DC I have in whatever scenario I can dream up. 😉
Same here!
Here's a pic of the wife's computer speakers I did a few years ago.
Here's a pic of the wife's computer speakers I did a few years ago.
Haven't done it yet. I have sitting on the bench a fine donation of parts... BUT... that would mean no audio while the swap is made (lame excuse I know with all the amps around here). Did some A/B-ing with M2X/Norwood though.... 😎.
Soon. I think about it daily.
Soon. I think about it daily.
Really lame. Just kidding. Not to mention a daughter that can play the guitar for you.
ZM, a question on the 106/206 caps. Your post #635 says it must be 470uF/ 16V but your package contained 1000uF/10V caps. Am I good with 1000uF/10V caps. Thanks,
Don
Don
ignore post
naah ....... ignore everything
even 6V3 are good enough for position
1mF is better than 470uF
so, you're good
naah ....... ignore everything
even 6V3 are good enough for position
1mF is better than 470uF
so, you're good
No golden ears here.
That said. I lived with all IRFP version for several months before I switched one stereo BJ2 to Semisouth down and compared it to second Stereo BJ2 with all IRFP.
I also built ACA and F2 monoblocks previously and did the same procesure of adding Semisouth down.
In all cases the results were similar.
There is simply more…
Only analogy I can think of is this:
It’s a beautiful Spring day outside.
IRFP= You crack the window open to let in some fresh air.
Semisouth= You open the window completely, stick your head out and take a deep breath.
Thanks ZM, not going to put you on ignore though.🙂ignore post
naah ....... ignore everything
even 6V3 are good enough for position
1mF is better than 470uF
so, you're good
@MZM
I just remembered a question I forgot 🤪
What is the output impedance to be expected of the BJ2?
Not sure it matters, but I am running them single ended.
Thanks in advance.
I just remembered a question I forgot 🤪
What is the output impedance to be expected of the BJ2?
Not sure it matters, but I am running them single ended.
Thanks in advance.
feeding them SE or BAL, doesn't matter for Rout
dunno what's Rout ....... low enough
color me Peasant, I believe I didn't even measure it .......
in any case, thingie is having enough OLG to have substantial NFB, so Rout is darn low, for small amp as it is
and, yes, NFB - Blasphemy - you know how harsh it sounds
dunno what's Rout ....... low enough
color me Peasant, I believe I didn't even measure it .......
in any case, thingie is having enough OLG to have substantial NFB, so Rout is darn low, for small amp as it is
and, yes, NFB - Blasphemy - you know how harsh it sounds
Actually not obsessing with having low R out.
One BJ2 currently drives the big Tannoy in living room until I finish OB with smaller Tannoy to be bi-amped with both and active crossover.
Was more interested in figuring out if I want to try other BJ2 with my impulse buy Kirishima horns should I be adding series R to get BJ2 to play nicer with fullrange?
Right now F2J is driving the Kirishima with Fostex 206nv.
So current source amp with 4R out.
Pretty much a match made in heaven.
Only thing maybe better is playing with other flavors of Fostex…modified 206e, 208ez, 206esr…or who knows?
Still, how can I not try every amp I have with them? 😉
One BJ2 currently drives the big Tannoy in living room until I finish OB with smaller Tannoy to be bi-amped with both and active crossover.
Was more interested in figuring out if I want to try other BJ2 with my impulse buy Kirishima horns should I be adding series R to get BJ2 to play nicer with fullrange?
Right now F2J is driving the Kirishima with Fostex 206nv.
So current source amp with 4R out.
Pretty much a match made in heaven.
Only thing maybe better is playing with other flavors of Fostex…modified 206e, 208ez, 206esr…or who knows?
Still, how can I not try every amp I have with them? 😉