I am retired and fiddling around with KiCAD every now and then. Suddenly I had PCBs for both of them. Will probably give one of them a try.
The J2 looks more complicated than the XA.25. Is it also more challenging getting to work?this one is sorta stopped , it ends as too complicated for many guyz .....
what's X.25?
not challenging construction wise, just having drekload of parts, thus increased possibility of error during assembly
Sorry, my mistake! I meant XA.25
PL XA25 ......... or ZML XA252?
Thanks Zen! Any thoughts on how it compares to XA.25?
Here are the schematics I used for my PCBs:
XA.25
J2
Hope they are correct!
Here are the schematics I used for my PCBs:
XA.25
J2
Hope they are correct!
Any thoughts on how it compares to XA.25?
what you did show, it is not PL XA25
anyhow, Babelfish J2 (from this thread) is range smaller amp than XA25 is, not just power wise but also energy wise
B. J2 is nice small FW-like amp, while PL XA25 is simply Berserker; with finesse, but still Berserker
anyhow, ZM Is so Chicken, I wouldn't dare even to think of biasing mosfet pucks with shown bjt bias generator
I feel kind of lost (and a little stupid), because I cannot find the right source of my schematic. Maybe I just made it up from this iteration in the thread:
Seems like i substituted the TL431 with the BJ bias spread. Me using dual IP-JFETS is just because I wanted to be able to experiment with some duals that I have. Why exactly is the BJs a bad idea?
Seems like i substituted the TL431 with the BJ bias spread. Me using dual IP-JFETS is just because I wanted to be able to experiment with some duals that I have. Why exactly is the BJs a bad idea?
plenty of reading and links in https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...belfish-xa252-sit-babelfish-xa252-set.373443/
those pucks are wild, no source resistors, you need to count on more than luck and thermal equilibrium, to have them controlled and functional
those pucks are wild, no source resistors, you need to count on more than luck and thermal equilibrium, to have them controlled and functional
I realize my lack of knowledge here... Would you say this schematic is in principle doomed, or just difficult to handle/stabilaze etc?
Since the PCBs are already made, I would give it a try, unless it is just a waste of time.
Thanks for your inputs. I am reading the thread....
Since the PCBs are already made, I would give it a try, unless it is just a waste of time.
Thanks for your inputs. I am reading the thread....
recipe for disaster, as I said
these pucks are having so big xconductance that they're not just able but also veeeeery eager to start welding, faster than you can lay an eye on them
so, proper biasing mechanismus is more than necessary........ read that as "active" biasing, not any sort of predetermined voltage source without any sort of feedback
in linked thread, first post, you'll find link to sort of origin thread, more than enough reading to keep you from doing anything rash in month or so ......... just from amount of various ideas you'll get more than enough info
and you can research later lhquam's work
here: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/300233-f4-beast-builders.html
these pucks are having so big xconductance that they're not just able but also veeeeery eager to start welding, faster than you can lay an eye on them
so, proper biasing mechanismus is more than necessary........ read that as "active" biasing, not any sort of predetermined voltage source without any sort of feedback
in linked thread, first post, you'll find link to sort of origin thread, more than enough reading to keep you from doing anything rash in month or so ......... just from amount of various ideas you'll get more than enough info
and you can research later lhquam's work
here: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/300233-f4-beast-builders.html
What ZM said, plus......
J2 Babelfish is my current favorite of the ZM offerings and FW DIY amps (lots of parts? lots of fun.). One really needs to build them ALL in order to figure out what you like—If you haven't built any of them—stand on the shoulders of giants before going rogue—not advice. In my system—which is vinyl centric—and completely in my own opinion......Aleph J=Super colorful and fun, F5=Super precise, M2X/Norwood=Super best of all worlds, the fun never ends, Scryer=Unicorn, J2 Babelfish (SS Down)=Home for me, right now, maybe, color and precision...Could exit happy with any of them....
In a garage full of Ferraris, which is the best? @6L6 🙂
ZM kits and DIYAUDIO kits are both brilliant...making life superb and fun.
J2 Babelfish is my current favorite of the ZM offerings and FW DIY amps (lots of parts? lots of fun.). One really needs to build them ALL in order to figure out what you like—If you haven't built any of them—stand on the shoulders of giants before going rogue—not advice. In my system—which is vinyl centric—and completely in my own opinion......Aleph J=Super colorful and fun, F5=Super precise, M2X/Norwood=Super best of all worlds, the fun never ends, Scryer=Unicorn, J2 Babelfish (SS Down)=Home for me, right now, maybe, color and precision...Could exit happy with any of them....
In a garage full of Ferraris, which is the best? @6L6 🙂
ZM kits and DIYAUDIO kits are both brilliant...making life superb and fun.
In a garage full of Ferraris, which is the best?
what sort of question is that?
FW M2, what else?

Status report
Left channel board:
I've replaced T201-T210 and removed, tested, and resoldered P201. All 5 LEDs light when the board is powered up. I set the bias at 750mV, gave it an hour to warm up with the chassis cover closed, but can't get the output offset to stabilize. It wanders +/- 3V over a minute's time.
Right channel board:
Replaced T101-T110. Did diode tests on the LEDs. When powered up all 5 LEDs briefly flash on, then go out. I shut off power quickly. Nothing on the board feels hot; only M102, M103, R133, and R136 got warm.
At this point my suspicions are on JFETs J101-J104 since I accidentally soldered a couple of the transistors into places where thru-hole JFETs would go on the topside of the boards. I removed them and did diode tests on the SMD J101-J104; they appear to be okay but I'm not sure if it's a valid test while they are in-circuit.
Any ideas or suggestions? I'm not sure why this build has been so problematic; my M2X and WHAMMY HPA builds were almost trouble free.
I gave up on this shortly after and put the boards in a drawer. Anyone want them? I'll ship for free in the USA.
^ Bummer. PM me. I don't remember where you were in your build or the issues. If I have parts etc., I can likely get them going for you and send them back. Might take 'a minute', but ...
^ This is one of my absolute favorite amplifiers. I built two... in a couple configurations.
Thinking of someone missing out on the build b/c they may have had a few issues gets me all verklempt.
I mean heck, @slk23 may be building a full SS version .... and those parts may find a new home.
(Clearly a joke).
Thinking of someone missing out on the build b/c they may have had a few issues gets me all verklempt.
I mean heck, @slk23 may be building a full SS version .... and those parts may find a new home.


I’m with you on that…I think you know I built a pair of stereo BJ2 with Semisouth down so I could use them with multi-way projects.
There were a couple of hiccups along the way, but it was worth all the effort.
They will be a very hard act to follow.
Now I am finally building my IP…thanks to all ZM’s help. I can’t wait to be able to try it with the BJ2 amps. I think it will be a remarkably revealing combination.
There were a couple of hiccups along the way, but it was worth all the effort.
They will be a very hard act to follow.
Now I am finally building my IP…thanks to all ZM’s help. I can’t wait to be able to try it with the BJ2 amps. I think it will be a remarkably revealing combination.
I hope you're as happy with that combination as I was.Now I am finally building my IP…thanks to all ZM’s help. I can’t wait to be able to try it with the BJ2 amps. I think it will be a remarkably revealing combination.
^ Bummer. PM me. I don't remember where you were in your build or the issues. If I have parts etc., I can likely get them going for you and send them back. Might take 'a minute', but ...
Very generous of you! Hopefully I just made a simple mistake that you can easily spot. I can ship them to you if you like, and in the meantime here's a pic of how I left them:
- Home
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- Babelfish ᄅſ....or FW J2 on Steroids .... or Not your Father's J2!