Blue LED is Mouser #593-VAOL-3GSBY4.
I did that diagram in Word 97. Yep, still using it 24 years later. Why upgrade? It does everything I need it to do. Well, except conversion to pdf. I'll have to transfer to my wife's PC to convert.
I did that diagram in Word 97. Yep, still using it 24 years later. Why upgrade? It does everything I need it to do. Well, except conversion to pdf. I'll have to transfer to my wife's PC to convert.
Here's the wiring diagram so far. I was thinking about splitting up into right and left pages to make it less busy.
Carry the twists as far as you can in the wiring. It was hard to show that in the diagram without creating more confusion.
Carry the twists as far as you can in the wiring. It was hard to show that in the diagram without creating more confusion.
Thanks Monk55. I have all those values in Solen Fast Caps. so in the spirit of using what one has in the bin I'll use them in my B1K.
I changed the 6 signal coupling caps from Nichicon FW (the ones that came with the kit) to Nichicon Muse ES (non-polar). Same 10uF 25v Muse ES.
It does take nearly 3 weeks for them to break-in, I was playing music from my streamer to the pre-amp pretty much non-stop 7x24.
3 weeks later, the sound is absolutely glorious. There is more mid-range bloom and upper bass. Sound is more dense, with lots of details emerging from the background, details I've not heard before. It's like I need to listen to all my CD rips again.
Seriously, those Muse ES caps are not expensive. But I did get the Muse ES caps from a seller in Japan (NOS stock). They have darker green jacket than the newer ones with a lighter green color jacket.
I think in the future, the kit should bundle with these instead of the FW.
It does take nearly 3 weeks for them to break-in, I was playing music from my streamer to the pre-amp pretty much non-stop 7x24.
3 weeks later, the sound is absolutely glorious. There is more mid-range bloom and upper bass. Sound is more dense, with lots of details emerging from the background, details I've not heard before. It's like I need to listen to all my CD rips again.
Seriously, those Muse ES caps are not expensive. But I did get the Muse ES caps from a seller in Japan (NOS stock). They have darker green jacket than the newer ones with a lighter green color jacket.
I think in the future, the kit should bundle with these instead of the FW.
I might try swapping out the NuTube too, but before that try all the dampening ideas including using rubber standoffs to isolate the board from the chassis better, including the daughter board someone mentioned that completely lifts the NuTube off the main board. That is exactly what the NuTek overdrive pedal I just built does - they have the NuTube attached via an umbilical cable on its own board that "floats" on the foam pads on the top and bottom (i.e.: is not actually attached to anything - its just wedged between the cover and board by the foam.
I'll say too that after I put the foam/silicone on mine (previous post) and listening to it for a week, I got some high-frequency microphonics after a longer listening session at higher volumes - and a particular song that seemed to trigger them. What got rid of that was what a few people I've seen on the thread used something similar to these that I used first on the Whammy to reduce some transformer coupled vibrations:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KT3QRX5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
After I swapped the standoffs, I hooked up my signal generator to my setup (B1K feeding an old Sunfire amp) and did a few frequency sweeps (20Hz-20khz) just for completeness at some different but moderate volume levels, and it seems to be microphonic-free now.
--Tom
Tom, I really appreciate all the ideas. My NuTubes drive me absolutely batty. I may pull out a tube of silicon and some tape today. It seems they vary quite a bit, and if I can get these two samples to work, then I know I'm good.
I've got two more NuTubes that I'd really like to use, and if I can get the two I've got in circuits to behave, I'll move along. They're just such cool devices.
I've got two more NuTubes that I'd really like to use, and if I can get the two I've got in circuits to behave, I'll move along. They're just such cool devices.
B1 Korg + Wiener Pro Integrated Amp
Hi All,
Glad to let you know that I finished my nice little integrated amp for my bedroom. Paired it with a Topping D90.
It consists of a B1 Korg and a Wiener Pro powered by 24V LPS. I also put an input transform in between the pre and class D for phase inversion. On the front panel, from left to right, are selector, volume control, toggle for bypassing the Wiener, a window for display the Korg, Main power, 12VDC / 9.5VDC plate voltage adj, and toggle for power supply to the Wiener. It rings a bit when I push or turn a switch but the ring damps out in seconds.
The most time consuming part was the planning and fitting of everything in a small box. I am not good at describing the sound but I can say I am happy with it. Thanks for the nice project!
Hi All,
Glad to let you know that I finished my nice little integrated amp for my bedroom. Paired it with a Topping D90.
It consists of a B1 Korg and a Wiener Pro powered by 24V LPS. I also put an input transform in between the pre and class D for phase inversion. On the front panel, from left to right, are selector, volume control, toggle for bypassing the Wiener, a window for display the Korg, Main power, 12VDC / 9.5VDC plate voltage adj, and toggle for power supply to the Wiener. It rings a bit when I push or turn a switch but the ring damps out in seconds.
The most time consuming part was the planning and fitting of everything in a small box. I am not good at describing the sound but I can say I am happy with it. Thanks for the nice project!
Attachments
Thanks Cinco !
What are the advantages of running individual ground wires as opposed to the single one shown in the 6L6 build guide ?
What are the advantages of running individual ground wires as opposed to the single one shown in the 6L6 build guide ?
Mainly to reduce some crosstalk between channels. I didn't like the L & R channels twisted together like the build guide.
If you untwisted all those pairs wired to the selector switch, straightened them out and sky-wired them, it would be ok. I'd leave the grounds twisted though to reduce ground loop area. It won't look very neat though.
I wanted to bundle them as shown in my pic.
Nutube phonostage? I’m going to look at the spec sheet. (Very happy with a modified version of the World Audio Design diy ECC83 circuit now.)
I bought them from Taobao China.
You may be able to find them in Aliexpress, try search for "Breeze Audio Chassis".
Cheers
In this case it would mean running those input signal wires straight over to the selector switch with as much space as possible between each one. Suspended in mid air.
Perfect. I may try giving that a shot. That looks like a nice amp. The taller chassis must have helped a lot for sky wiring it.
Phase
I set voltages per Nelson's suggestion, and listened to the B1k with both ways of connecting speakers. To me they sounded no difference. Am I missing anything, or it could just be my ears? However the B1K sounded extremely well either way.
I set voltages per Nelson's suggestion, and listened to the B1k with both ways of connecting speakers. To me they sounded no difference. Am I missing anything, or it could just be my ears? However the B1K sounded extremely well either way.
I too finished the kit for B1K a couple of weeks back, and I think I have messed my life more than I fixed it [emoji23][emoji23]. I was living happily thereafter building B1 buffer and pairing it with F6 + Klipsch RP 280f....superb combo. Then comes B1K, a diyer itch....built it, replaced B1b....my entire experience turned down. The entire top high spectrum disappeared. Mid came to life, but lows became uncontrolled/muddy...I immediately reverted to B1b and glory days came back...also tried to realize that my efforts on B1k must have gone to ashes, but just before discarding the new pre, just thought of pairing it with Elekit TU-8100 which was shelved because B1b failed to pair with it, but...........B1k+8100 just took listening to another level...I have not been able to listen to F6 combo for last 3 days...possibly many more days to follow....all that was missing with F6 has now reappeared and kicking ***. I don’t worry about lows, but whatever 8100+B1k is throwing at me, I am simply loving it....I will try pairing it with AlephJ next...not sure what to expect....but learning....this business is heavily dependent on mixing/matching and listening impressions....well Nelson Pass you still deserve a big hug...thanks...listening has never been the same since DIY bug bit me....[emoji2957]
Has anyone tried blu tack for damping the nutube? There's also something else I'm considering called moongels that are for drumheads. My last tube preamp was a 4P1L that was prone to microphonic ringing, so I'm focused on that potential issue.